Shed Wood Seasoning

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Well when I built this I just had cut and split about 2 cords, being brand new I just had to putsome in the shed, being new and all,I am burning the wood that I seasoned outside. And I hope some day that cord I stacked in that new shed will season, So if you want to season wood , you need to do it it outside. :zip:
 

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I'm on the naysayer side if the wood is not seasoned first. I have an open three sided leanto against my workshop. The one wall is cinder block. It is 8'w x 18'l x 8' to the joists. Another 4' to the roof rafters. The long side faces east & one 8' side faces south. Due to limited space, I cut, split & stack immediately. Mostly ash, soft maple, some hard maple & some cherry. I fill from the middle to one end for next years burning while I am burning from the other end for the current season. I supplement from other stacks stored under raised cover for several years. That wood is mostly oak. Some of it is locust & I hate it as it takes even longer to season than the oak.

I find that by the time I am down to the 4' height on the second row in the shed I have to stack the wood around the stove to get it dry enough for a good secondary burn. Some of the pieces lose a third of their weight & develop numerous splits after a day by the stove. I think if you stuff that plastic shed full of green wood, you will have the best mildew farm around. I don't think your drying climate is any where close to what the gentleman from Colorado has. I think you are probably closer to my conditions here in Ma.

Another thing to think about is how strong is the base for that shed. I think you said you could fit 3 cord in there & the shed deck is supported 7' in the air. Three cord would be 12 > 15,000 lbs. If that shed is 8' x 8' that comes out to about 235 lbs per square foot. Just a few things to think about.
Al
 
lobsta1 said:
I'm on the naysayer side if the wood is not seasoned first. I have an open three sided leanto against my workshop. The one wall is cinder block. It is 8'w x 18'l x 8' to the joists. Another 4' to the roof rafters. The long side faces east & one 8' side faces south. Due to limited space, I cut, split & stack immediately. Mostly ash, soft maple, some hard maple & some cherry. I fill from the middle to one end for next years burning while I am burning from the other end for the current season. I supplement from other stacks stored under raised cover for several years. That wood is mostly oak. Some of it is locust & I hate it as it takes even longer to season than the oak.
I find that by the time I am down to the 4' height on the second row in the shed I have to stack the wood around the stove to get it dry enough for a good secondary burn. Some of the pieces lose a third of their weight & develop numerous splits after a day by the stove. I think if you stuff that plastic shed full of green wood, you will have the best mildew farm around. I don't think your drying climate is any where close to what the gentleman from Colorado has. I think you are probably closer to my conditions here in Ma.

Another thing to think about is how strong is the base for that shed. I think you said you could fit 3 cord in there & the shed deck is supported 7' in the air. Three cord would be 12 > 15,000 lbs. If that shed is 8' x 8' that comes out to about 235 lbs per square foot. Just a few things to think about.
Al

hmm really? could be proof of negative shed seasoning? locust should be a LOT fast then Oak. you sure its locust?
 
lobsta1 said:
I'm on the naysayer side if the wood is not seasoned first. I have an open three sided leanto against my workshop. The one wall is cinder block. It is 8'w x 18'l x 8' to the joists. Another 4' to the roof rafters. The long side faces east & one 8' side faces south. Due to limited space, I cut, split & stack immediately. Mostly ash, soft maple, some hard maple & some cherry. I fill from the middle to one end for next years burning while I am burning from the other end for the current season. I supplement from other stacks stored under raised cover for several years. That wood is mostly oak. Some of it is locust & I hate it as it takes even longer to season than the oak.

I find that by the time I am down to the 4' height on the second row in the shed I have to stack the wood around the stove to get it dry enough for a good secondary burn. Some of the pieces lose a third of their weight & develop numerous splits after a day by the stove. I think if you stuff that plastic shed full of green wood, you will have the best mildew farm around. I don't think your drying climate is any where close to what the gentleman from Colorado has. I think you are probably closer to my conditions here in Ma.

Another thing to think about is how strong is the base for that shed. I think you said you could fit 3 cord in there & the shed deck is supported 7' in the air. Three cord would be 12 > 15,000 lbs. If that shed is 8' x 8' that comes out to about 235 lbs per square foot. Just a few things to think about.
Al

Shed is 12X11 on a deck built with 9 - 4X6's in concrete. Frame is 2X10's with 2X4's every 12 inches. Should be able to carry that weight since I went with the larger posts and having 9 of them as opposed to just the outer 4.

Having the best mildew farm around is a pretty good concern. I hadn't thought too heavily about that, but I DO know how wood gives off a lot of moisture. You may have a great point here.

Bigg_Redd said:
Yes, handle and restack as many times as possible. The more the better.

It would probably do something for my fitness level - I could stop riding bicycles. Hmmmm...
 
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