Short Stroking a Splitter

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EatenByLimestone

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I've seen a few posts where people have drilled and inserted a bolt in the ram, etc.

Why not just add a plate to the non wedge side. A plate an inch thick would certainly shorten the travel that the wedge would have to go. 2 or 3 inches of plates would shorten it more. It seems like it would be easier than some of the methods I've seen discussed here.

Matt
 
velvetfoot has the the answer. I have a friend that uses them with great success. Another side benefit is if you cannot take full length wood you can set your opening to sort out the ones that need trimmed.

Don
 
How thick are each of those collars? The description just says what diameter shaft they will fit on, not how thick they are or how many of them your $20 buys you. They appear to be stackable to whatever limit you wish to impose. If that's the case I'll be headed to town sometime in the next few days and buy me a handful of them.
 
They come in a set. If memory serves me correctly the thinnest is about 1" and the thickest 3-4". I believe the whole stack is about 8-10" worth. If you were trying to limit your 24" stroke splitter to 10" wood you might need two sets.

Don
 
Do they just slide on the shaft?
 
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If you look on the lower left side on the picture, you see an opening in the spacers. There is a spring than holds them shut. You just slip the spacer over the rod.

Don
 
EatenByLimestone said:
I've seen a few posts where people have drilled and inserted a bolt in the ram, etc.

Why not just add a plate to the non wedge side. A plate an inch thick would certainly shorten the travel that the wedge would have to go. 2 or 3 inches of plates would shorten it more. It seems like it would be easier than some of the methods I've seen discussed here.

Matt

Nice idea, and fits the "out of box" model, but...

Two potential issues - one mostly a problem for the vertical units..

1. Weight - a 1" plate the size of most foot or pusher plates is going to be a substantial hunk of steel, add two or three, and you will have enough weight to be a pain to move, and possibly enough to upset the balance of the machine...

2. Thickness - mostly an issue for vertical machines, and then with big rounds... One of the objectives in going vertical is to avoid having to lift heavy rounds up onto the beam - if you add 2-3" of thickness to the baseplate you are bringing back that big step that can be a challenge to shift the round up onto - plus it can make it difficult to make big rounds sit level on the platform...

Gooserider
 
Anyone know the size of the cylinder on the ryobi? The 21" capacity is killin me productivity wise, I like to go 16" so I can load my stove either way.
 
FWIW the actual size of all the collars all together is 4 1/2". I picked up a set today, they do fit the ryobi no problem, according to my caliper it's about 1 3/16". Brings me down right about where I wanna be, at least within an inch of the wood, and I don't cut em all perfect so that extra inch will be handy. I tried them out for an hour or so and I gotta say it makes a huge difference in productivity. Thanks velvetfoot for finding these, I had no idea they existed, took all of 10 seconds to put em on.

If anyone wants to know the individual sizes of each collar lemme know and I can measure em.
 
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