Should I keep my Vermont Casting Vigilant or go for New USSC APS1100

[Magus]

I am reposting this questions because I think it got tangled in my other thread.

Well, I thought this weekend was going to be productive.

I was going to start putting tile on the floor for the VC Vigilant (PRE EPA) and then I read the directions again.

Floor Protection: calls for two sheets of (1/4 inch) non-combustable “Mineral” board.
I put down 1 sheet of 1/2 Durarock to put tile over.
Well Durarock does not count as mineral board! I doubt it has the same R value.

Also I have this screwed into the wood floor…so if I put tile on top of that and the heat transfers from the tile to the screws to the wood floor and plywood, this could catch fire. Not saying that it will...but it could. This was enough to make me stop in my tracks on this part of the project.

The heat shield around the stove to reduce clearance.
I was going to use aluminum beams from (Agent Orange)...home depot.which would have given me a two inch air gap instead of one inch.

I was going to put 1/2 inch cement board on top of that and tile it…again…heat going from tile to cement board, to aluminum frame to screws that screw into the wood studs...it will turn out not being much of a heat barier.

I have not seen a picture of sticking 24gauge steel on wall for a heat shield looking looking nice. and that is alot of steel for the drywall to have to support.

I went to Trator and Supply looking for some double wall black pipe so I can at least not have to go all the way up the wall (almost 8ft) with the heatshield...with cement board, tile...this all adds up $$$.

The guy at T&S told me that he had a fire under his stove and did not notice it...it went below the brick and the plywood is what caught on fire. and had to put it out form downstairs.
(He was pushing the importance of having the right Board under the stove) They had steel coated "Mineral Board) for $70 a sheet

I ran accross a USSC APS1100 wood stove for 350 bucks. supposed to heat up to 1100 sqft. ( well...my home is only 1035sq ft)
Its EPA approved
UL approved.

I would not need a heatsheild on the back or sides of the wall (within clearances of where I am going to put it)
The Class A pipe for a 6" is much cheaper than the Class A pipe for an 8"
it also has a Fan to push the hot air around the room a bit.

What I dont like about it is the fire box is hella small.
It looks like it can only take about 3 maybe 4 pieces of wood at a time...Maybe.....
It has fire brick inside. (taking up alot of space.

It does not look to be the same "quality" as the one I have now.
Welded toghether seel instead of cast iron.


I know that the stove I have now will put out some good heat and should last a good while.
But If I ever needed to change stoves...I have not seen too many newer stoves with an 8" collar.

Other notes: Right now I have NO wood. Have to purchase some for now.
It seems if I keep the stove I have now...I will burn more wood and I will have to keep it burnning hot to stop creosote build up.
If I get a smaller stove, It will seem like I am maxing it out all the time.


So, If you had the same choice, what would you choose and why?

 

[Fake coal burner]

USSC APS1100 Stove. I had a different steel stove EPA mounted in a fire place Same size fire box. Blowers on it; It heated the same size house ok. used it for 15 years. Ran the stove top temperature around 350 - 400 deg f. Good seasoned dry wood. The steel has no Joints too take apart and reseal joints with furnace cememt That is what I liked about it. You will get longer clean burns less creasort with EPA. stoves and use less wood. You can put a small fan in the far end of the house on the floor to blow cold air into the room to help distribute the hot air. You might have to load a little more often But I think you would save on the wood pile vs. non EPA stove. See What other members have to say. You are the one that has to make a big choice. Good luck and stay warm. Happy burning!

 

[Magus]

Thanks for your reply.

Question. What happens to stoves that have blowers on them when the power goes out (electric). The stove needs to be plugged in for the blower to work. Where I live is not "IF" the power is going to go out...its when.

 

[BrowningBAR]

Other notes: Right now I have NO wood. Have to purchase some for now.
It seems if I keep the stove I have now...I will burn more wood and I will have to keep it burnning hot to stop creosote build up.
If I get a smaller stove, It will seem like I am maxing it out all the time.


So, If you had the same choice, what would you choose and why?

I wood upgrade to the EPA stove due to potential cracks that you have mentioned in your stove. Additionally, I might put off burning until next year since buying wood in December is not a good plan. No matter how hot you burn, there will be creosote build up. In fact, the wet wood will prevent you from burning hot in most cases.

 

[Fake coal burner]

Thanks for your reply.

Question. What happens to stoves that have blowers on them when the power goes out (electric). The stove needs to be plugged in for the blower to work. Where I live is not "IF" the power is going to go out...its when.

Put more wood in run the temperature up to keep warm they work good with fans off. The radiate and give off convection heat. Lost power for 2 days at 0 deg. F keep you from freezing. If stove in in the open that is much better in a centrally located room.

 

[rodeo720]

i agree keep it. may be a dirty burner but it will keep you warm at night and good size fire box and top load
and can cook on.

 

[BrowningBAR]

i agree keep it. may be a dirty burner but it will keep you warm at night and good size fire box and top load
and can cook on.

If it has hairline cracks it could be dangerous to run. Keeping it would be a bad idea.

 

[humpin iron]

you do know that the Vigilant needs to be a min of 36 inches from the walls around it..................