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Should I use Stainless or Galvanized chimney pipe?

Post in 'The Hearth Room - Wood Stoves and Fireplaces' started by chris-mcpherson, Jun 21, 2010.

  1. chris-mcpherson

    chris-mcpherson New Member

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    Some of it will be enclosed in a direct vent bump out and about 20' of it will be exposed. Doing the job in Stainless will cost me ~$400 more. Money is definitely an issue but I don't want it to cost me more in the long run.

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  2. madison

    madison Minister of Fire

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    I believe, stainless for the portions exposed to the elements and eye. Otherwise, galvanized. It was my understanding that the galvanized appearance will change with exposure to the rain/snow, but integrity is not affected.

    I used galvanized inside, and painted it with high temp black. Stainless outdoors. Pics in sig. link.

    Hope this helps.
  3. chris-mcpherson

    chris-mcpherson New Member

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    That's what I thought about the integrity of the galvanized but, I have a supplier pushing the stainless with it's rust and corrosion resistance properties. I thought galvanized would hold up just as well. I figured it was an issue of aesthetics only.
    Would it be advisable to paint galvanized pipe? If so, I could paint it the color of my house.
  4. vvvv

    vvvv New Member

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    i would & keep extra paint on hand in case it peels
  5. tiber

    tiber New Member

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    You MUST paint galvanized. If you're looking for "hands free", you want stainless.

    Myself, I want it to match the side of the house, and I don't want a blinding obilisk of light at dawn and dusk to piss off my neighbors, so I'm going to get galvanized.
  6. chris-mcpherson

    chris-mcpherson New Member

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    Damn good point.
    I was considering stainless so it would look shiny and new but it could end up being too much of a good thing. After consideration and the responses in this thread I'll use galvanized and paint it my house color.
    Thanks guys.
  7. madison

    madison Minister of Fire

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    I think high temp paint would be advised for fire resistance (? local codes ?) and longevity. Which is going to add to the cost of the project.
  8. chris-mcpherson

    chris-mcpherson New Member

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    Oh yeah...didn't think of that. Any idea what the approximate temp would be over half way up a 26' run would be?
  9. DAKSY

    DAKSY Patriot Guard Rider Staff Member

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    Hot enough that the Class A will STILL require a 2" clearance to combustibles.
  10. chris-mcpherson

    chris-mcpherson New Member

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    I was referring to the type of paint to use. Am I limited to hi-heat stove paint?
    DAKSY...what part of NY are you at? I grew up in the Adirondacks.
  11. tiber

    tiber New Member

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    Well just high heat paint. Engine and brake paint comes in a variety of colors. Try Pep Boys, napa, etc.
  12. madison

    madison Minister of Fire

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    Bar-bq paint as well is an option.

    I personally would not want to try anything but high temp paint, during normal operation, the class a gets pretty warm, and i imagine if you screw up and get a chimney fire or stove overfire, you will blister the paint and possibly your home in the process.
  13. DAKSY

    DAKSY Patriot Guard Rider Staff Member

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    East of Albany in Rensselaer County...Averill Park...Actually live on Burden Lake.
    Love the Adirondacks. Lotta GREAT motorcycle roads up there...
  14. Renovation

    Renovation New Member

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    Hi Folks,

    I just thought I'd bump this thread up, since I'm making the same decision. I'm planning on completely enclosing my pipe in an insulated chase, so it will not be visible or exposed to the elements. I'd like to save $200 by getting galvanized instead of stainless, unless there's a compelling reason not to.

    From this thread, it seems not, which is good news for me. But if anyone has any additional insights, I'd like to hear them. If not, I'm content.

    Thanks, and happy burning!
  15. pen

    pen There are some who call me...mod. Staff Member

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    This is the part of the stainless steel spec sheet from simpson
    Cost for this pipe is 172.97 from http://www.ventingdirect.com/simpso...ess-steel-class-a-chimney-pipe-length/p656032

    Specifications

    Material Specifications:
    Outer Wall: 430 G-90 Galvanized Steel, .016" Thick, or .021" Galvalume Steel
    Inner Wall: 430 Stainless, .020" Thick.
    Insulation: Thermal Tech Blanket

    Misc:
    Maximum Temperature Rating: Rated for continuous use at 1000°, intermittent use at 2100°
    Supported Fuels: Wood, Oil, and Coal
    Warranty: Lifetime Warranty
    UL Listed: 103HT, 103

    Here it is for the galvanized
    The cost is 142. 70 http://www.ventingdirect.com/simpso...alvanized-class-a-chimney-pipe-length/p656033

    Specifications

    Material Specifications:
    Outer Wall: 430 G-90 Galvanized Steel, .016" Thick, or .021" Galvalume Steel
    Inner Wall: 430 Stainless, .020" Thick.
    Insulation: Thermal Tech Blanket

    Misc:
    Maximum Temperature Rating: Rated for continuous use at 1000°, intermittent use at 2100°
    Supported Fuels: Wood, Oil, and Coal
    Warranty: Lifetime Warranty
    UL Listed: 103HT, 103



    Are these spec sheets wrong? Other than the 30 dollar difference, I don't see what the heck the difference is? This is the same spec sheet that pops up for these products on other sites as well. I'm confused.

    pen
  16. Renovation

    Renovation New Member

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    Hi Pen,

    If you compare the sections of your citations that I've highlighted in blue with this quote from the DuraTech catalog:

    You'll see the blue sections are typos, and should read "430 stainless" instead of "430 G90 Galvanized". Then your quoted spec is consistent with the catalog, and with its own description of the stainless inner wall, which says 430 stainless, not galvanized.

    The upshot seems to be, there is no difference in the specs of the galvanized and stainless pipe, except for material! So they seem otherwise equivalent, which is a good thing for me. :)

    Make sense?
  17. pen

    pen There are some who call me...mod. Staff Member

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    So the stainless pipe is stainless inside and out and the galvanized pipe is stainless only on the interior?

    If so, and you don't mind the appearance, they both seem to be rated equally each with a lifetime warranty. I guess it depends on how much aesthetics matter to you.

    pen
  18. Backwoods Savage

    Backwoods Savage Minister of Fire

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    Personally I could care less what my neighbors think about my chimney. It is SS up the side of the house and looks just fine. I've had galvanized before and that too looked fine. No paint.
  19. chris-mcpherson

    chris-mcpherson New Member

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    I cared a little bit what a galvanized chimney would look like but in the end, the money savings meant more. I'm glad I decided to save the money because even though it's on the side of the house with the driveway... unless you mean to look at it, you don't even notice it. I have a feeling that a shiny SS chimney would have stuck out like a sore thumb.
    I've also seen nothing that says galvanized MUST be painted... only tips on HOW to do it if you want to.
  20. wkpoor

    wkpoor Minister of Fire

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    Galvanize will rust if near smoke. My chimney cap was originally galvanize and it rusted badly. Replaced it with stainless. I'm thinking this will apply to the pipe also. Keeping it painted will probably prevent the rust but will add a maintanence aspect. Depending on how diffecult it is to access would affect my decision.
  21. firefighterjake

    firefighterjake Minister of Fire

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    I was a bit concerned about the look of the stainless steel chimney running up the side of my house . . . and it's not like I'm all about looks or keeping up with the Jones. I just thought it might look a bit odd.

    However, after having it installed I discovered that 1) you tend to forget about the look after awhile and 2) I lucked out since you can really only see the last 2-3 feet from the road due to the location of the chimney and position of my house.
  22. Renovation

    Renovation New Member

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    Yessir, that's how it looks to me. And, as you see, there seems no difference in performance specs, certification, etc.

    In terms of warranty, wait a half hour...

    I just checked, and the warranty appears to not distinguish between galvanized and SS skin. Interestingly, it is void if the pipe is not installed by a certified professional. I guess they saw me coming.
    Well, appearance does matter, but no one will see it. I'm planning on going the extra yard, and enclosing the pipe all the way to the top--even above the roof line, in an insulated chase. I'm hoping that a straight, 8" flue, double wall stovepipe into class A, 25' total, enclosed and insulated all the way to the top would draw with a candle, let along a cool-outlet cat. I'm doing everything I can to make a future-proof flue that will draw well enough that it should work well with any stove I care to throw under it, even one with a 6" outlet, without having the risk of smoke spillage that a 6" flue on an 8" stove would have. (fingers crossed)

    So, if I can save $200 with a galvanized rather than stainless skin I'll never see, with no performance hit, that's good!

    Thanks to all for your advice.
  23. oldspark

    oldspark Guest

    If I planed on having the house for a long time I would go with the SS, sure they both offer the same protection but the galv. has a thin layer of protection so if it gets scratched some way it will rust there where as the SS will never rust no matter what. And if you decide to paint it that will add up over the years.
  24. LLigetfa

    LLigetfa Minister of Fire

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    I've seen enough cheap class A chimneys rusted away that I would never go that route. Forget about those supposed lifetime warranties where inferred quality is implied. They are all about marketing. Good luck ever getting satisfaction on a claim.
  25. Renovation

    Renovation New Member

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    Hey LL,

    Thanks for your insights.

    Agreed on the warranty.

    Have you ever seen a quality (say Simpson) galvanized Class A pipe that's enclosed rust away?

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