silicone roof flange ????

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Tnguy

New Member
Jan 6, 2011
18
middle tennessee
Hi yall its been a long while, i built a new outdoor shed for my furnace this summer and im thinking about getting on of them silicone roof flanges they have a metal ring around the bottom and are made of orange silicone the dealer says they are for hi heat applications , BUT i dont know if they know what they are talking about.. i burn a little wood in the fall and every now and then i "burn out" the creosote in the pipes and i have seen the pipes turn red before so im a little concerned about the silicone burning, anybody ever used these before???? thanks for the help and may your winter be mild
 
Wow, that sounds scarey to me, no matter what the flange is made of. Are you talking about the flashing between the chimney and the roof? Personally, I wouldn't ever burn out creosote in that manner if my chimney went through a roof....or if I cared about keeping my chimney in working order. High temp is one thing, glowing red is another....
 
thanks for the reply, ive burnt wood for as long as i can rember, ive always burnt out the creosote, im going through a TIN roof only no wood or insulation near it at all, i let it burn out and then tap the pipe and it all crashes down to the T then i take the cap off and clean out the ash, im just trying to find out how the silicone would hold up to high temps. thanks
 
NCPABill said:
Check out Dynamic Fastener for the hi temp roof boot. http://www.dynamicfastener.com/ You will have to download the catalog to see the products. The glowing red pipe sounds too hot. Maybe use a brush?

Good luck,

Bill

thanks for the link. i tried to get a brush UP from inside the shed but cant get the fiberglass rod to bend enough, and i cant get to the top of the pipe because its 12 feet over the shed roof :) thanks again
 
From what I've read elsewhere on the forum it sounds like you would be able to clean with a "Soot Eater" from the bottom up. Glowing pipe would bug me out too.
 
Those silicone boots are nice but Not sure if it will hold up to glowing red pipe. Sounds like a good way to shorten the life of your chemminey and maybe the shed.
Try burning dry wood and that should help with the creasote.
 
woodsmaster said:
Those silicone boots are nice but Not sure if it will hold up to glowing red pipe. Sounds like a good way to shorten the life of your chemminey and maybe the shed.
Try burning dry wood and that should help with the creasote.

thanks, i do burn dry wood before i start on coal BUT my stove is overkill for my house so i have to keep it snuffed down to a smolder and thats where i get the build up.
 
Tnguy said:
woodsmaster said:
Those silicone boots are nice but Not sure if it will hold up to glowing red pipe. Sounds like a good way to shorten the life of your chemminey and maybe the shed.
Try burning dry wood and that should help with the creasote.

thanks, i do burn dry wood before i start on coal BUT my stove is overkill for my house so i have to keep it snuffed down to a smolder and thats where i get the build up.

United States Stove company Model: 1557M
 
Tnguy said:
woodsmaster said:
Those silicone boots are nice but Not sure if it will hold up to glowing red pipe. Sounds like a good way to shorten the life of your chemminey and maybe the shed.
Try burning dry wood and that should help with the creasote.

thanks, i do burn dry wood before i start on coal BUT my stove is overkill for my house so i have to keep it snuffed down to a smolder and thats where i get the build up.

If your around home a lot you could build small fires. If not I'd be looking for a smaller unit.
 
woodsmaster said:
Tnguy said:
woodsmaster said:
Those silicone boots are nice but Not sure if it will hold up to glowing red pipe. Sounds like a good way to shorten the life of your chemminey and maybe the shed.
Try burning dry wood and that should help with the creasote.

thanks, i do burn dry wood before i start on coal BUT my stove is overkill for my house so i have to keep it snuffed down to a smolder and thats where i get the build up.

If your around home a lot you could build small fires. If not I'd be looking for a smaller unit.

thats the problem, im on the road about 12 hours a day and need the fire to last, i had a smaller stove before but it wouldnt hold enough wood to last the day, so i bought this new one and i can burn my coal in it too :) thanks
 
the high temp silicone is rated at 392 Intermittent and 302 continous so no it wont work for a red chiminey.
 
There are no flexible type flashings that are suitable for those temps. IE: glowing steel = 1000*+

Metal with a tight fitting storm color would be the only thing that would stand up to those temps.

You running single wall pipe through the roof?
 
heaterman said:
There are no flexible type flashings that are suitable for those temps. IE: glowing steel = 1000*+

Metal with a tight fitting storm color would be the only thing that would stand up to those temps.

You running single wall pipe through the roof?

yes been running it that way for years, there is nothing closer than about 12 inches to it..

thanks
 
Tnguy said:
heaterman said:
There are no flexible type flashings that are suitable for those temps. IE: glowing steel = 1000*+

Metal with a tight fitting storm color would be the only thing that would stand up to those temps.

You running single wall pipe through the roof?

yes been running it that way for years, there is nothing closer than about 12 inches to it..

thanks

That probably contributes to your creosote problem. Single wall pipe allows the flue gas to cool and condense far faster than an insulated chimney does.
 
The flange you asked about is NOT going to work with single wall pipe! I am sure the person who suggested it would not have if he knew you were using single wall pipe.
 
I would put in a short section of s/s chimney to get you through the roof. Single wall pipe through any kind of roof is pretty dangerous, unless you want to leave a big gap through a metal roof and live with water running down the pipe onto your furnace.
 
The item you are speaking of sounds a lot like a timber jack thimble used in tents. A silicone impregnated woven fiberglass sheet that gets sewn into the roof of the tent where a hole has been cut to accomodate the chimney passing through. I have one in a tent that I use while camping up in northern Michigan. The silicone is very fire-retardent but is not a course I would recommend for a permanent structure. The highest I have seen silicone rated for is 700*f. There are times while camping that the pipe gets a dull glow to it as draft is very hard to control in a small, wood burning camping stove and the silicone has seared a few times but will not burst into flame though the pipe will still slowly eat at the silicone when there is a glow to the pipe. At times it is necessary to "burn out" the pipe to prevent a chimney fire because of creostote. A chimney fire in the woods, even when there is ample snow on the ground is not to be desired and was a common practice for loggers and campers in decades past. Back then though they still had a water barrel handy in the cook tent. As far as burning out your chimney pipe to clear out creosote I had a stove that the manufacturer recommended burning out the chimney in the owners manual so it is not new technology (i.e. opening up the draft and allowing the fire to burn unrestricted for a short time daily but I believe they recommended class A or triple walled chimney or lined flue block only after it was inspected annually). In my home I had triple walled pipe routed as close to the stove as I could get to prevent creosote build up as I had a 28' chimney run. Tin roof and all I would still recommend triple wall as close to the stove as possible to help ease your creosote problem. There are thimble kits designed to accomodate triple walled pipe going through the roof. As a side note even burning out the chimney daily I would get sparks and those should never be ignored.
 
Thanks for all the replies,

i burn coal most of the winter but early on i do burn some wood, i try to burn out the pipes every day or every other day to keep control of the fire hazard, i walked outside one night about 11pm and saw flames and sparks flying 20 foot in the air from the pipe, it hadnt been cleaned out in a few days and it just "caught" on its own, the draft and damper were closed down but that didnt stop the pipe from catching on fire, luckily i seen it and was able to control the sparks and we had no fire BUT had i not walked out there who knows what could have happened, so now i clean it all the time,

again thanks for the help...
 
Hey fellow Tennesseean (however it's spelled). I think you said this was in an outdoor shed as opposed to being inside your house. You also said it was a tin roof. If so, try making a double insulated pipe and see how it works. Get some unfaced fiberglass insulation like what is used in a house, except don't have any paper or foil backing on it. If your current pipe is 6", get enough 8" stove pipe to reach from your stove to the top of the pipe. Wrap the fiberglass around the 6" pipe and hold it in place with very small pieces of tape. Make sure your fiberglass is compressed well before taping. Put the 8" around it all the way up. Make sure you have a cap over the top of the pipe to prevent rain from getting in there. When you fire up your stove, get it fairly hot and it will melt the tape off. Considering you have 2 pieces of steel with fiberglass sandwiched in the middle, even if the small pieces of tape should ignite from the heat, what will it hurt?

The outer pipe and insulation should keep the inner pipe from getting as cold and dramatically improve the temp of your exhaust gases. Unless you are using wood that is very wet, this should resolve your problem and you will not have creosote buildup, or at least not nearly as much. Seeing as to how you noticed the sparks coming out the other day makes me wonder how many times it has happened and you just haven't seen it.
 
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