silly new guy question? building a fire by cardinal direction???

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Jay G

New Member
Oct 17, 2010
6
east Texas
I expect this is a silly question and I think I now the answer but would like it verified, please. A recent poster started his topic with the following...
Started small fire then loaded E/W, N/S and then E/W thinking faster fire.

Is he referring to building his stack by crisscrossing his wood by 90deg opposition? Is N/S then the stove as viewed from the front with N to the rear and E/W on the long axis L to R?

Another nug question if I may. I have read reference to a "split rule." Is there a 'rule of thumb' in which pieces of split wood are to be held to a certain ratio of the remainder? If so, what is the make up of the remainder??

I know about building a fire from the bottom up with tinder- dried leaves, wood shavings, paper, et al such, then kindling & smaller pieces of wood crisscrossed at 90degree intervals (if being formal about such things). Is that what the poster above was referring to? If so, since he refers to it rather as an exception, or so it seems to me, what other method would be the more commonly used?

My fires tend to be more haphazard. I use a lot of branch material cut to length. Split wood likely only makes up 20%- maybe 30% of my wood supply at best. I'll also chop up irregularly shaped pieces (such as branch forks for which there is no splitting) into various chunks of wood. So far I have found such handy on mild days when it is sometimes impractical to keep a stove to temperature by steady burn & coal bed so I just keep a small active fire going by tossing in smaller pieces and chunks using flame instead of coal bed and stove temperature for heat source. Not neat I know, but it has so far worked for me.

Oh. Being in a mild climate we often have to rely on lower fires. I am fully aware of potential for creosote build up. I will clean my chimney regularly during periods of mild temperature. Too, I usually put news paper into the smoke stack and fire it off before lighting my stove- serves two purposes- burns out most potential for creosote build up and by pre-heating my pipe/chimney (whatever the 'correct term may be) it makes getting a fire going very easy since (I know y'all know this- just stating the obvious for continuity) part of getting a fire going is heating the chimney sufficient for a good draft.

I note all the above so that someone might comment on what I might do better, where I may be going wrong or maybe even badly wrong. I have operated mostly old fashioned stoves (such as the Volgazang boxwood or ye-olde pot-belly stoves) other than a Jotul F100 which just didn't work out for us last year. This year we're starting out with a Jotul F500.

Any advice- pointers to sticky posts or other helpful sites welcomed.
Thankx! :cheese:
 
Hey Adios, nice long answer! lol


Some folks seem to do a lot of thinking when building fires and reloading stoves while others simply light the fire in various ways and when it comes time to load the stove with wood, just stick the stuff in there to burn. It really is not too complicated of a thing as to how to light a fire or load the stove. Of course there are a few things one needs to be aware of. One that comes to mind is what my wife has a tendency to do and it still baffles me over the years. Somehow she usually has a tendency to have wood not sitting completely on the bottom of the stove and then can't get the fire to do squat. So I take the poker, rake the coals flat and get the longer pieces on the bottom and it takes right off. It still baffles her!

I've never loaded a stove NS and EW at the same time nor have I had the inclination to do so. Maybe I could get more wood in (but don't need to) or maybe I could get a bigger fire going (don't need one) or maybe a longer burning fire (I doubt it). Therefore I'll just stick to the basics of loading the stove....and stay warm in the meantime.


Smokey, on your idea of the newspaper lighting helping on the potential creosote, I highly doubt that will do much or anything to prevent it. It will, however, help to warm the flue to get a better draft established. Also, although these newer stoves have to be operated just a tad different, it is not all that much different. You'll do fine.
 
"Is he referring to building his stack by crisscrossing his wood by 90deg opposition? Is N/S then the stove as viewed from the front with N to the rear and E/W on the long axis L to R?"

No. In fact, over the years, experienced wood-stove users have found that the magnetic polarization of the earth can have a significant effect on burn times and heat dispersal. By aligning the larger splits N/S, it enhances the overall fire efficiency. Most users just get a compass and mark a "North" arrow on their new stove top, then use it to position future loads.

Speaking of loads, this answer qualifies!
 
No cardinal is gonna direct me how to load a stove. :lol:

North/South loading = splits parallel to the stove sides
East/West loading = splits parallel to the front/back of the stove
 
Backwoods Savage said:
Hey Adios, nice long answer! lol

Yeah, I could have answered that using ten times as many words and been half as clear, you're being too kind to these newbies. :-/
 
What does a red bird have to do with loading a stove? ;) :)
 
DanCorcoran said:
"Is he referring to building his stack by crisscrossing his wood by 90deg opposition? Is N/S then the stove as viewed from the front with N to the rear and E/W on the long axis L to R?"

No. In fact, over the years, experienced wood-stove users have found that the magnetic polarization of the earth can have a significant effect on burn times and heat dispersal. By aligning the larger splits N/S, it enhances the overall fire efficiency. Most users just get a compass and mark a "North" arrow on their new stove top, then use it to position future loads.

Speaking of loads, this answer qualifies!


LOL!! SNIPE!!!!!!
 
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