Snowblower Stuck In Gear?

[Czech]

So I just finished the annual maint on my Ariens 824, replaced the electric start, changed the plug and oil, etc. Still trouble shooting why it gets stuck in gear occasionally, I did replace the friction disk last year for what it matters. So every once in a while, it stays in gear even when the handle grip is released, even if you engage and release multiple times. I end up shutting it down and pushing it back and forth and working the shift, then it will let go. Any advice before I go in? I suppose I'll need to look at the disk again and check belts and such, pulleys maybe? Thanks gang, just getting ready here in MN.

 

[TMonter]

I'm guessing something in the cable or mechanism that engages the drive is sticking. I'd have to look at an 824 schematic but check for anything that is slightly corroded or any pins/joints that might be bent or out of place.

 

[pen]

Does it get stuck in gear as in it just keeps moving on you unless you shut it down? Or will it stop when you release the friction disk but you can choose a different gear?

pen

 

[gfreek]

Check to make sure that there is a small gap between the rubber drive disc and the aluminum disc, if there is black rubber build up on aluminum disc carefully clean with solvent ( do not get any on rubber wheel), wipe and dry, then make sure the aluminum disc moves back and forth, thats what engages and dis-engages your drive, check return spring. There may be a pivot point on lower frame for lever link, make sure thats free. . That my guess without model #

 

[Czech]

Thanks guys, It's a 932101. Yes, one in gear, it stays in gear even tho the handle is released, cannot choose different gear. Sometimes I can slam it down and it releases. I did pull the service plate and take a look, nothing obvious and it functions as it should when apart. I lubed what should be lubed and cleaned what should be cleaned, it is a bit better (easier to get it to release, less frequent). I did loosen the cable a bit, wonder if that is too tight. Funny how once it grabs it will not let go, looks like it should by the mechanics of the drive.

 

[gfreek]

Check the clutch fork that moves the round plate make sure its free. The round aluminum drive plate should move freely in and out on a shaft I'd carefully lube that with spray. Return spring OK. Make sure lever is free. All for now.

 

[johng34`]

Check the clutch fork that moves the round plate make sure its free. The round aluminum drive plate should move freely in and out on a shaft I'd carefully lube that with spray. Return spring OK. Make sure lever is free. All for now.

I have had this exact problem. What I've found so far (not root cause) is that the plate that the friction disc (disk with rubber outer surface) contacts, for some reason moves front to back (toward and away from the front of the snowblower). If I don't keep the shaft that supports that plate lubricated my machine will stay in gear and continue to move when the handle is released. If I spray just under that plate, and the corresponding end of the shaft near the belt pulley with a lubricant, my machine will stop as soon as the handle is released. My machine, model 932105 is about 10 years old, I suspect some bearing is worn causing the front to back movement.

 

[gfreek]

https://www.jackssmallengines.com/j...e-8-5hp-tec-electric-26-blower/friction-drive
There is a return spring on that reference #33..

 

[fire_man]

I have had this exact problem. What I've found so far (not root cause) is that the plate that the friction disc (disk with rubber outer surface) contacts, for some reason moves front to back (toward and away from the front of the snowblower). If I don't keep the shaft that supports that plate lubricated my machine will stay in gear and continue to move when the handle is released. If I spray just under that plate, and the corresponding end of the shaft near the belt pulley with a lubricant, my machine will stop as soon as the handle is released. My machine, model 932105 is about 10 years old, I suspect some bearing is worn causing the front to back movement.

I know this thread is ancient but I have the same snowblower and the same exact problem. Especially in the faster gears, releasing the traction lever has no effect and the unit continues moving for 5-6 feet before stopping. The lowest speed gear has no problem.

Wondering if gfreek is still out there and confirmed root cause.

 

[velvetfoot]

I'm sorry I can't help. I did replace some of the innards a few years ago and now my Ariens 24" snowblower behaves the opposite. It will not move for several seconds after the handle is pulled. I think it's mostly in lower speeds though. Pretty consistent too. Maybe I'll look at again this summer, but the 54" blower on the JD 1025R has relegated it to mostly backup duty.

 

[gfreek]

Here... remove the bottom access cover, first shut off gas and I put a vinyl glove under the gas cap to prevent leakage, tip it up onto blower housing. You will see a rubber friction drive disc and an aluminum round wheel( drive plate). When you squeeze the drive lever, it pulls the aluminum wheel (drive plate) #20, towards the rubber disc and that is how you get your drive. Check to make sure that moves freely. And the return spring #33, is there and functional. There is a bearing assy #21, on a shaft. Check the rubber drive disc #12, for cracks, gouges, missing pieces or just wear. Check the aluminum drive plate, there are usually black rubber markings on there from the drive disc. Use a type of cleaner, I use carburetor cleaner, and "Carefully" clean the aluminum disc plate, do not get any cleaner on the rubber disc. Move the rubber disc from one end of the shaft to the other using your speed lever, forward to reverse or what not, complete the cleaning..As long as you are there make sure the disc moves freely on the hex shaft #14, if not clean it with the same cleaner, and lightly lube with thin weight oil of some sort, not much though.. The rubber drive disc may just need to be replaced.. ..Some are easier than others to replace.

 

[fire_man]

Thanks gfreek! I'll try your suggestions. I have replaced the friction disc and the drive plate in the past (The aluminum drive plate was a pain). I sure hope its not the bearing assembly, that is a Summer project.

I can't picture how a worn rubber disc would cause this but who knows. Funny, when the traction control finally disengages its like something is snapping back into place, all of a sudden it just releases and the unit stops moving, like something is binding up and freeing itself.

 

[gfreek]

Yes again make sure it moves free, spring is intact, and a clean aluminum drive plate

 

[gfreek]

Also check the hex shaft end bearings for wear, play front to back, flange #17, bearing #18

 

[fire_man]

Mine is Ariens 932100-824 but I think I see the parts you are referring to


I can see how wear at the flange and bearing would mess with the friction disc pressure against the drive plate.

 

[fire_man]

Ok here is an update.

1. Great idea gfreek to use the vinyl glove in the gas cap. That saved me the usual annoyance of draining the tank.
2. The Aluminum drive plate was squeeky clean, but I cleaned it again anyway.
3. The Friction disc was in great shape, no gouges and lots of meet.
5. No play in the flange/bearing suggested earlier
4. The friction disc slides easy from one side of the shaft to the other, it has plenty shiny oil from my last service interval.
6. The Aluminum drive plate seems to have some wobble in it. It wiggles a good 1/16" as measured by play on outer circumference. When I wiggle it up and down from the outer diameter, the plate wiggles on the shaft side to side. Its as thought the hex shaft that the plate rides on is worn (or the Drive plate itself).

The spring that pulls the drive plate down seems strong enough but I can duplicate the problem without the machine even turned on.
I placed the speed selector on a high speed setting, engaged the traction lever, tried to rotate a tire to put force on the aluminum plate, released the lever but the drive plate did not retract. I think the drive plate is getting hung up due to the play with respect to the shaft. I lubed the shaft with some silicon spray and that seems to help but the plate still fails to retract on the highest speeds.

The friction disc places the most "wobble movement" on the drive plate when the speed selector is set to a higher setting since the rubber contacts the outer circumference of the drive plate. It retracts just fine on the lowest 2 speed settings when the rubber contacts the center of the drive plate. I think the drive plate is getting hung up on the shaft since it's "cocked" at a slight angle on the shaft.

The shaft and drive plate are a bit pricey from Jackson Parts #21 and #23 ($71 and $50) but I think one of these parts is worn. I remember that plate being quite the pain to replace.

 

[gfreek]

fire_man what model # is that..?? Honestly more often than not replaced the rubber disc. Not very often replacing the aluminum drive plate...mostly because they are gouged from worn disc

 

[fire_man]

My model # is 932100-824

How can the rubber disc prevent the aluminum drive plate from disengaging? The Rubber Disc is certainly the cheaper and easier to replace part and worth a try but I just don't understand the logic.

 

[gfreek]

Agree that should release from the drive disc without issue. When you release the lever and the rubber disc sticks to the plate, can you manually push the drive plate back away ?

 

[gfreek]

Why did you replace the drive plate before ?? bearings /bushings worn ??

 

[fire_man]

Agree that should release from the drive disc without issue. When you release the lever and the rubber disc sticks to the plate, can you manually push the drive plate back away ?

Yes, I am able to manually push the drive plate away from the rubber disc and it "pops" into its retracted position.

 

[fire_man]

Why did you replace the drive plate before ?? bearings /bushings worn ??

I was sold a defective rubber disc which shredded off its rubber the first time it was used. It scored the aluminum drive plate instantly.

 

[gfreek]

Ok here is an update.

1. Great idea gfreek to use the vinyl glove in the gas cap. That saved me the usual annoyance of draining the tank.
2. The Aluminum drive plate was squeeky clean, but I cleaned it again anyway.
3. The Friction disc was in great shape, no gouges and lots of meet.
5. No play in the flange/bearing suggested earlier
4. The friction disc slides easy from one side of the shaft to the other, it has plenty shiny oil from my last service interval.
6. The Aluminum drive plate seems to have some wobble in it. It wiggles a good 1/16" as measured by play on outer circumference. When I wiggle it up and down from the outer diameter, the plate wiggles on the shaft side to side. Its as thought the hex shaft that the plate rides on is worn (or the Drive plate itself).

The spring that pulls the drive plate down seems strong enough but I can duplicate the problem without the machine even turned on.
I placed the speed selector on a high speed setting, engaged the traction lever, tried to rotate a tire to put force on the aluminum plate, released the lever but the drive plate did not retract. I think the drive plate is getting hung up due to the play with respect to the shaft. I lubed the shaft with some silicon spray and that seems to help but the plate still fails to retract on the highest speeds.

The friction disc places the most "wobble movement" on the drive plate when the speed selector is set to a higher setting since the rubber contacts the outer circumference of the drive plate. It retracts just fine on the lowest 2 speed settings when the rubber contacts the center of the drive plate. I think the drive plate is getting hung up on the shaft since it's "cocked" at a slight angle on the shaft.

The shaft and drive plate are a bit pricey from Jackson Parts #21 and #23 ($71 and $50) but I think one of these parts is worn. I remember that plate being quite the pain to replace.

View attachment 291367

So re-reading this,it gets hung up when the ribber disc is at the outer part of the drive plate, higher speed. so the drive plate gets cocked maybe, hung up so that it has to be forced back is a thought. Yea that style plate and assembly is a PIA to replace..

 

[fire_man]

So re-reading this,it gets hung up when the ribber disc is at the outer part of the drive plate, higher speed. so the drive plate gets cocked maybe, hung up so that it has to be forced back is a thought. Yea that style plate and assembly is a PIA to replace..

Yes that is my unfortunate conclusion. I remember having a really hard time replacing that plate.

I just want to make sure the drive plate is really the problem and not some other weird binding thing.

It kind of makes sense its the plate rather than the shaft since the plate is aluminum. I expect the shaft is steel.

 

[gfreek]