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so i have ZERO chain sharping stuff untill

Post in 'The Gear' started by Mroverkill, Nov 16, 2012.

  1. Mroverkill

    Mroverkill Feeling the Heat

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    so i am either going to buy the stuff from stihl or timberline


    if i go to timberline all i also need to buy is a depth guage correct ??


    Or buy a depth guide/ file and guide and what else ???

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  2. HittinSteel

    HittinSteel Minister of Fire

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  3. Mroverkill

    Mroverkill Feeling the Heat

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    so thats all i need is the timberline for the teeth and a flatfile/depth tool and im all set???
  4. Mroverkill

    Mroverkill Feeling the Heat

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    or get the stihl file kit and that will include everything i need also
  5. HittinSteel

    HittinSteel Minister of Fire

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    yes
  6. ScotO

    ScotO Guest

    make sure you read up on and learn how to properly sharpen your chain. Lots of good tutorials to get you started over on youtube. Just be certain to NOT take too much off of your rakers, that can really make it both miserable and dangerous if you don't know what you are doing. Be safe, tell us how you make out on your first attempt...
    Thistle likes this.
  7. kevin j

    kevin j Minister of Fire

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    good info on stihl and oregon websites
  8. MasterMech

    MasterMech Guest

    Even if you buy the Timberline, I'd pick up the Stihl file kit as you still need 2 outta the three items in it. (The depth gauge/raker tool and the flat file.)

    Sharpening 101:

  9. Mroverkill

    Mroverkill Feeling the Heat

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    yup went throught he stihl site and i figure if i use there file with the guide and be gentle then i can get the hang if it HECK i have 4 chains laying around so i cant do to bad lol after i get the hang if it ill hint for a timberline for xmas or see if they have any type if sales coming up
  10. Flatbedford

    Flatbedford Minister of Fire

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    I think that is the way to go. Around $20 and easy to use.
  11. Isaac Carlson

    Isaac Carlson Member

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    FYI, The depth gauge is not the way to go. Measure the angle from the top of the tooth to the top of the raker on a sharp chain that cuts quickly. Keep this angle for the life of the chain. The tooth porpoises through the wood and the angle is what makes it cut deeper or shallower. You will find that the chain will cut slower and slower as you sharpen it if you use the raker depth gauge. There is a load of info about this on Arborist site.
  12. MasterMech

    MasterMech Guest

    They offer a discount for Hearth.com members. >> Search: "Timberline Group Buy" here on Hearth.com
  13. MasterMech

    MasterMech Guest

    You're supposed to use the tool to set the height, then file the raker tooth to the proper shape. If you only file down the top of the raker, you're only gettin' it half-done.
  14. Isaac Carlson

    Isaac Carlson Member

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    The tooth gets further away from the raker as it is sharpened and therefore makes the angle shallower even if you file the raker down with the guide. It needs to be filed more than the gauge will allow as the chain gets filed back.
  15. MasterMech

    MasterMech Guest

    So long as the height difference between the top of the cutter and the top of the raker is to spec, the angle is irrelevant. .060" is .060 regardless of the angle the cutter sits at relative to the wood.
  16. Isaac Carlson

    Isaac Carlson Member

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    What I am trying to say is that the angle is what controls how much bite the tooth gets.
    You can have a brand new chain with .06 depth and it will cut faster than a chain that has been sharpened to half the tooth length and set at .06 because the angle is steeper on the new chain. There was a lot of curiosity on this topic on another forum a few years back and they found it is the angle between the tooth and raker that controls depth.

    I found some of the info. The angle should be somewhere around 6° from the tip of the tooth to the raker.

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