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  1. DonCT New Member

    joined: Dec 9, 2005
    609 posts
    Bristol, Connecticut
    Finally started working on getting my new stove installed. I'll try to take pictures as I go along so you can see the difference :)

    Here's the original fireplace:

    Attached Files:

    #1

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  2. DonCT New Member

    joined: Dec 9, 2005
    609 posts
    Bristol, Connecticut
    Mantle and fireplace removed:

    Attached Files:

  3. DonCT New Member

    joined: Dec 9, 2005
    609 posts
    Bristol, Connecticut
    First section of chimney. Would this count as double wall??? ;)

    Attached Files:

  4. DonCT New Member

    joined: Dec 9, 2005
    609 posts
    Bristol, Connecticut
    More chimney

    Attached Files:

  5. DonCT New Member

    joined: Dec 9, 2005
    609 posts
    Bristol, Connecticut
    New flooring with the new hearth dimensions cut out. Hopefully I can have the hearth done by this weekend and schedule the stove and new chimney to be installed shortly after.

    Of course, more pics to come :)

    Attached Files:

  6. Corie New Member

    joined: Nov 18, 2005
    2,428 posts
    Halifax, VA
    MORE MORE MORE!!!!!!!!!!!!
  7. DonCT New Member

    joined: Dec 9, 2005
    609 posts
    Bristol, Connecticut
    Metal framing done for the hearth pad. I was surprised; working with the metal stud and tracks were really very simple :)

    Durock going on tomorrow.

    Attached Files:

  8. DonCT New Member

    joined: Dec 9, 2005
    609 posts
    Bristol, Connecticut
    On one side there wrere 2 sheets of 5/8" Durock, but nothing on the other. That's another reason I'm going to Durock the back of the alcove.
  9. Eric Johnson Minister of Fire

    joined: Nov 18, 2005
    5,703 posts
    Central NYS
    Nice looking pad frame-up there, Don.
  10. martel New Member

    joined: Feb 9, 2006
    206 posts
    keep em coming Don- enjoying your install...
  11. DonCT New Member

    joined: Dec 9, 2005
    609 posts
    Bristol, Connecticut
    Durock installed on the new hearth pad. It was a little wierd at first, but I think it came out ok. I just need to sand the edges and tape up the joints. Hopefully I'll have time this weekend to start on the tile. Still haven't picked out a color yet. The woman can't seem to make up her mind (as if that's something new and unusual :p )

    Keep in mind, this was my first time doing custom work with Durock :) And I think it will meet the clearances.

    Attached Files:

  12. begreen Super Moderator

    joined: Nov 18, 2005
    36,435 posts
    South Puget Sound, WA
    Don, great job. Keep the pictures coming. It's great to get a sequential build like this.

    However, "the woman" comment..... ouch. That is so 1950s. Sounds like my older brother.
  13. MountainStoveGuy New Member

    Don, looking good! and also looks familiar! That hearthpad is harder to lay out then it would seem. Cant wait to see the finished product.
  14. wg_bent Minister of Fire

    joined: Nov 19, 2005
    2,248 posts
    Poughkeepsie, NY
    That's durock? Looks like sheet rock.
  15. DonCT New Member

    joined: Dec 9, 2005
    609 posts
    Bristol, Connecticut
    On the sign at the Depot, it said Firestop somethingorother Gypsom. I assumed it was Durock. I take it I was mistaken?

    Oh well, There's 2 layers of 5/8" on the top, so that should be sufficient, right?
  16. wg_bent Minister of Fire

    joined: Nov 19, 2005
    2,248 posts
    Poughkeepsie, NY
    Hey Don, Well, I'm not sure. I'm far from an expert though. If you look at the "before the Osburn" thread I did, the stuff I used is called Wonderboard. I got it at the BORG. It's actually fiberglass mesh similar to the stuff you use for doing sheetrock joints with cement in between The stuff is literally sheet cement. I've placed it in the stove to see how fire proof it is and it comes out looking just like when it went in. Plus it's great to tile up to since the cheapest junk tile morter bonds to it really well. I'd hate to see you go too far with the wrong base.

    I always thought that firestop sheet rock was a product to put in garages and it was basically fire retardant version of sheetrock, but I could be wrong. Elk may know the specifics of the code and products. I'd like to hear what you finally do.
  17. begreen Super Moderator

    joined: Nov 18, 2005
    36,435 posts
    South Puget Sound, WA
    On closer inspection, I think Warren may be correct. The board appears to have a paper coat on it. If that's correct, it is a form of sheetrock. Hearths should be build on non-combustible materials. The paper in sheetrock is combustible. I used wonderboard as well.
  18. DonCT New Member

    joined: Dec 9, 2005
    609 posts
    Bristol, Connecticut
    Well, looks like Don learned a something here.

    Guess it's time for another trip the the store and have them physically show me the Durock/Wonderboard :(

    Thanks for catching that fellas!!!!!!
  19. wg_bent Minister of Fire

    joined: Nov 19, 2005
    2,248 posts
    Poughkeepsie, NY
    The other part of the equation is that the Wonderboard has pretty good thermal mass since it's essentially cement. Sorry to cause the rework Don, but I think the install will be really sweet when your done with a change to Wonderboard. The good news is that Wonderboard is really cheap, so at least it wasn't a costly change. One other suggestion... get the screws that are made for Wonderboard. They're expensive, but worth every penny. (a little trick...a thin layer of morter between layers adds structural integrety, thermal conduction to the lower layers and makes the whole thing so stiff you won't believe it.)

    Using the metal studs was a great idea...I wish I thought of that. I insulated instead.
  20. webbie Administrator

    joined: Nov 17, 2005
    11,041 posts
    Western Mass.
    This chimney is good for nothing except for use with the prefab fireplace that it came with - in other words it is not generic and cannot be used for a wood stove.

    This assumes that it was for a prefab in the first place.
    It also looks like it is just about touching that wood!
  21. webbie Administrator

    joined: Nov 17, 2005
    11,041 posts
    Western Mass.
    Strangely enough, a lot of the approved stoveboards on the market are made with sheetrock as the backer board!

    They use metal angles around the edges and tile then.
  22. DonCT New Member

    joined: Dec 9, 2005
    609 posts
    Bristol, Connecticut
    Well, found the Durock at the Depot. Picked up 4 sheets to do the top of the pad. I plan on keeping the 5/8" sheetrock on the sides of the pad. Will the sheetrock work ok for the walls of the alcove? Or do I need to durock them aswell?

    I can reuse the sheetrock from the pad for the top of the alcove, and just pick up 1 more sheet of 4x8 to make the sides and back wall. I just figure since the pad is the closest to the stove that I would want alittle more protection there. Also, in the manual, it only talks about the R value of the pad, not the walls. As long and they're the firestop sheetrock, will I be ok? The stove will be installed with the clearance to combustables for the wood frame walls (11 in. from the corner of the stove to the wall)

    I'm so confused on the walls :/
  23. MountainStoveGuy New Member

    No need to sheet the walls with a non combustable, as long as you maintain your clearances to your sheetrock.
  24. webbie Administrator

    joined: Nov 17, 2005
    11,041 posts
    Western Mass.
    The ones I am speaking about have to sit on a decent floor - either hardwood or a tight carpet. Plush carpets are difficult without cutting the rug/

    I've seen both sheetrock and mineral board (like in 2x4 suspended ceiling tiles) used as the backer for these tile boards. I suppose some use cement board also, but just about any material will crack if the board is not properly seating and supported on the floor.
  25. DonCT New Member

    joined: Dec 9, 2005
    609 posts
    Bristol, Connecticut
    Great, now that I layed out where the stove will be in relation to all the walls, I think the pipe coming off the stove is going to be too close to the front wall of the alcove. I need to find out if I can rear vent, then go up. Or bend it back slightly as it comes off the stove, with the swivel pipes (I think they make them for Class A).

    Or the only other way is to rip the rest of the wall down and rework it so that it will be far enough away so I can mount the ceiling box for the chimney.

    I think I've just made this whole project alittle too hard. Oh well, I gotta learn sometime :) Plus that's what I have you guys for ;)
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