Someone come fix my stove please

  • Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.

    We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.

    We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil.
Status
Not open for further replies.

bbfarm

Minister of Fire
Jan 2, 2012
708
wisconsin
Just did a complete tear down of stove. Pulled the fans, cleaned them, new gaskets. Pulled the stove out on the porch and blew it all out with the air compressor.

Still getting a #2 and #3 code blinking lights. Got these at the end of burn season in June on the last burn.

Manual say either high limit switch or room air fan

I am ready to cry

Photo of combustion fan before and after. It spins freely. image.jpgimage.jpg image.jpgimage.jpg
 
The fan is running at start up, then it shuts off and instead of it continuing it shuts off and blinks code
 
Did you clean out behind the burn chamber? Run a coat hanger up the ash traps? Use a leaf blower to finish off the cleaning?
 
Yes. I used the ash vac up the port where I took the exhaust motor out. Used a brush, vac and the air hose to blast out all the ash from the ash traps and the 2 ash port holes behind the brick.

We leaf blowered the vent without the stove attached. Did a pretty good job with the air compressor.
 
I hope the cleaning helps a lot. From what I see in the pics of the combustion blower before cleaning, your stove was starved for air and was running WAY too rich.....there should be NO black, shiny, creosote-looking coatings anywhere in a pellet stove. Looks to me to be a VERY dirty stove.

This is what a dirty comb. blower should look like (after 1 1/2 tons):
blower vanes.JPG
 
By too rich do mean too much air? The oak is only pencil thickness open.

We ran the stove on t-stat last winter instead of smart-stat, not sure if igniter was going so we didn't want it turning off and on.
 
By too rich do mean too much air? The oak is only pencil thickness open.

We ran the stove on t-stat last winter instead of smart-stat, not sure if igniter was going so we didn't want it turning off and on.

Not enough air... your oak is set pretty good...same as my two St. Croixs. I agree with imacman that your stove was pretty dirty.
 
How do I test if the proof of fire switch is bad? Just jump the 2 wires together?
 
I pushed the reset button but can't tell if it was in or out. Maybe the snap disk is bad?

Is it safe to bypass it by connecting the two wires together just to test?
 
Update:

I bypassed the high limit switch with a jump wire and so far so good!

Will have to order a new one tomorrow and fix the firebrick that cracked all the way through this summerimage.jpgimage.jpg
 
Status
Not open for further replies.