1. Welcome Hearth.com Guests and Visitors - Please enjoy our forums!
    Hearth.com GOLD Sponsors who help bring the site content to you:
    Hearthstone Soapstone and Cast-Iron stoves( Wood, Gas or Pellet Stoves and Inserts)
    Caluwe - Passion for Fire and Water ( Pellet and Wood Hydronic and Space Heating)

Spillway Leaks

Post in 'DIY and General non-hearth advice' started by bcnu, May 4, 2009.

Thread Status:
Not open for further replies.
  1. bcnu

    bcnu New Member

    Joined:
    Dec 1, 2006
    Messages:
    495
    Have a small(acre or so) pond with concrete spillway. I use wooden 2x10's that fit in a concrete slot. Water is leaking under the bottom of the board where it meets the spillway bottom. I'm having trouble getting a tight seal. Wondering if u have any ideas for a barrier at the bottom. What about using a thick door gasket material for wood stoves and attaching it to board so that it forms a barrier at bottom(not under the board but on the pond side - would it remain watertight for the summer or would water pass right thru it? Would coating gasket material with tar or something improve water-tightness? How about somew other material? Oh, the board is about 40" long.

    Helpful Sponsor Ads!





  2. Highbeam

    Highbeam Minister of Fire

    Joined:
    Dec 28, 2006
    Messages:
    8,956
    Loc:
    base of Mt. Rainier on the wet side, WA
    Oooooh, that bottom board didn't pass the walrus test.

    Is the pond full? Are you going to have to swim to get this done?
  3. velvetfoot

    velvetfoot Minister of Fire

    Joined:
    Dec 5, 2005
    Messages:
    6,538
    Loc:
    Sand Lake, NY
    Garage door bottom gasket?
  4. Gooserider

    Gooserider Mod Emeritus

    Joined:
    Nov 20, 2006
    Messages:
    6,737
    Loc:
    Northeastern MA (near Lowell)
    Can you put some sort of material against the board on the pond side? I'm thinking something like a sandbag; possibly custom shaped - sort of an underwater version of those "draft stopper" tubes you will sometimes see people put in front of doors that have bad gaskets... Maybe some sort of thin, flexible rubber hose (like sump pump discharge line) partially filled with sand? Idea being that the sand would hold the hose in place while the water pressure jammed it into the crack.

    Gooserider
  5. bcnu

    bcnu New Member

    Joined:
    Dec 1, 2006
    Messages:
    495
    No boards in yet - but raining cats and dogs right now so will have to wait awhile. Tried sand bags last year and didn't conform enough to seal. Thought about a garage door seal but wondered if it would make a tight seal.
  6. woodsman23

    woodsman23 Minister of Fire

    Joined:
    Aug 26, 2008
    Messages:
    1,352
    Loc:
    western southern tier of NYS
  7. gpcollen1

    gpcollen1 Minister of Fire

    Joined:
    Oct 4, 2007
    Messages:
    2,026
    Loc:
    Western CT
    I'd second the garage door gasket or use some pool liner. A pool store will sell you a piece of liner.
  8. EatenByLimestone

    EatenByLimestone Minister of Fire

    Joined:
    Jul 12, 2006
    Messages:
    4,819
    Loc:
    Schenectady, NY
    Beavers have good luck packing the holes with mud and grass. I don't suppose it would be too bad to do a little shovel work when you want to use the spillway to drain it.

    Matt
  9. JustWood

    JustWood Minister of Fire

    Joined:
    Aug 14, 2007
    Messages:
    3,473
    Loc:
    Arrow Bridge,NY
    Piece of doubled over rubber roofing or old inner tube nailed to the bottom of the board with roofing nails.
  10. bcnu

    bcnu New Member

    Joined:
    Dec 1, 2006
    Messages:
    495
    Used lots of mud last year and it never quite did the trick. Thanks for all the good ideas so far.
  11. johnn

    johnn New Member

    Joined:
    Dec 8, 2008
    Messages:
    370
    Loc:
    so.Ill
    Is there a slot in the concrete bottom as in the sides?? Was this keyway of sorts , made during the pour, consistant in size?? If so,,,would a tightly fit board, swell up and make a better seal? I suppose if it worked too well you would no longer have a spillway that was operable.
  12. bcnu

    bcnu New Member

    Joined:
    Dec 1, 2006
    Messages:
    495
    Unfortunately there is no slot in the bottom. With about 25 years of wear the concrete apron just in front of the boards isn't as good as it once was. I made some repairs last year to that area. I would, if possible, make the bottom board permanent. The creek that fills the pond, while almost non existent in the summer becomes a torrent in the winter and I have to have all the boards removed - I've learned that by experience these past two winters.
  13. Gooserider

    Gooserider Mod Emeritus

    Joined:
    Nov 20, 2006
    Messages:
    6,737
    Loc:
    Northeastern MA (near Lowell)
    Might not be possible to get an absolute stop on the leakage, you might have to settle for slowing it down to a slow enough seepage that the pond stays full...

    That said, if you don't have a slot for the bottom board, I'd try building up some concrete (maybe with some rebar added) on the downstream side to at least give the board a "step" to bear against...

    Maybe cover the bottom board in a tarp or something to give you a "mold release", and once you've slowed things down on the downstream side, pour in some hydraulic cement to make a slot on the upstream side....

    Gooserider
  14. Cutter

    Cutter New Member

    Joined:
    Feb 20, 2009
    Messages:
    135
    Loc:
    Tecumseh Kansas
    I don't know all of the particulars but you might be able to creat the "slot" with bags of asphalt patch. Put your board in place and they tamp the asphalt down and tight up against the board. You will have to do a good job of cleaning off the dirt or dust from the surface of the concrete before applying. The stuff works best on hot days.
    Brad
  15. bcnu

    bcnu New Member

    Joined:
    Dec 1, 2006
    Messages:
    495
    I agree about creating a slot at the bottom for the board. I tried something temporary last year but wasn't sucessful. One problem is that there is always some water moving thru the dam. Goose, your idea about starting on the backside sounds interesting. I know, from last year, that I can live with some seepage. Just that it took a lot to get it to that point.
Thread Status:
Not open for further replies.

Share This Page