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  1. WellSeasoned Minister of Fire

    joined: Nov 25, 2011
    1,683 posts
    Eastern Pa
    What you all do? I have the huskee 22 ton, checked the oil before using it today, but going to change it soon. Drain plug under splitter, so this should be easy. Hydro fluid should be fine. So far I've run about 8 cords through it.

    Something I noticed is I lost a screw at the base of the cylinder, although nothing is leaking, I'm not sure what the purpose of the black screw is. Other than that, anything missing I should look at? thx
    #1

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  2. zap Minister of Fire

    joined: Aug 25, 2009
    10,373 posts
    I'll be changing the oil (5w-30 going in for the winter, check your manual) I also will be changing the hydraulic oil filter, spark plug seems fine but I do have one extra just in case.

    zap
  3. nate379 Minister of Fire

    joined: Sep 21, 2010
    4,004 posts
    Palmer, Alaska
    Most small engine w/o oil filter spec a 50hr oil change interval.

    Best thing would be check the owners manual.
  4. Backwoods Savage Minister of Fire

    joined: Feb 14, 2007
    24,148 posts
    Michigan
    Yup. 50 hours on the hydraulic oil filter is good.

    Zap, I've not changed a spark plug on ours yet.
    zap likes this.
  5. Halligan Member

    joined: Jan 19, 2012
    222 posts
    Rhode Island
    I agree with the other posters that you should follow you owners manual. That said, I too have a 22 ton Huskee and assuming you bought it new and run 8 cord through it you should change the engine oil and hydro filter. I believe Briggs and Stratton recommend changing the engine oil after the first 5 hours of use on a new engine then the 50 hour interval (check owners maual X2). The 22 ton Huskee is a nice unit for the money so take care of her and she'll take care of you.
  6. bogydave Minister of Fire

    joined: Dec 4, 2009
    7,758 posts
    So Cent ALASKA
    Missing screw may be access to remove the end cap of the cylinder. ( a guess)
    I have an allen head screw on the wedge end of the cylinder. Not sure what it's for.
    Couldn't find it on the parts break down.
  7. adrpga498 Minister of Fire

    joined: Nov 18, 2005
    750 posts
    New Jersey
    I'm thinking about spraying all hoses with armourall can't hurt keeping the rubber from drying out a bit.
  8. WellSeasoned Minister of Fire

    joined: Nov 25, 2011
    1,683 posts
    Eastern Pa
    Same here, not in manual. Its at wedge end though. I'll research
  9. zap Minister of Fire

    joined: Aug 25, 2009
    10,373 posts
    I change the spark plugs in the saws and the splitters every year, I only had one problem with the American CLS with the spark plug being bad.

    zap
  10. bogydave Minister of Fire

    joined: Dec 4, 2009
    7,758 posts
    So Cent ALASKA
    Might be a set screw to keep the end cap from turning or moving.
    My guess is it should be there. LOL :)
  11. Halligan Member

    joined: Jan 19, 2012
    222 posts
    Rhode Island
    I would not worry about the hydraulic hoses. A better practice would be to spray down the wedge, beam, and any other bare metal with WD-40 or a similar product after each use to prevent rust.
    WellSeasoned and zap like this.
  12. nate379 Minister of Fire

    joined: Sep 21, 2010
    4,004 posts
    Palmer, Alaska
    Going to make a real ugly mess when dust sticks to it faster that a fat lady wolfing down cupcakes.
    keninmich, adrpga498 and WellSeasoned like this.
  13. WellSeasoned Minister of Fire

    joined: Nov 25, 2011
    1,683 posts
    Eastern Pa
    Found my screw, gonna re install it, like the wd-40 spray down idea.
  14. LLigetfa Minister of Fire

    joined: Nov 9, 2008
    7,310 posts
    NW Ontario
    Actually, it is a PITA and the oil runs all over the place making a mess. I keep meaning to add some pipe and a 45 elbow to run it out to the side. One of them round-to-it jobs.
  15. WellSeasoned Minister of Fire

    joined: Nov 25, 2011
    1,683 posts
    Eastern Pa
    I got it changed, and it want bad. My socket set w/o any socket undid it in a snap, and I used a small funnel with a long exit tube into a small container. Bit of a pita, but not bad.
  16. Backwoods Savage Minister of Fire

    joined: Feb 14, 2007
    24,148 posts
    Michigan
    It will evaporate quite fast. A bit better to use oil. You could use some light grease but then you would need to clean it before using it the next time.
  17. WellSeasoned Minister of Fire

    joined: Nov 25, 2011
    1,683 posts
    Eastern Pa
    A tad bit of oil sounds good too. Whatever keeps it in good shape a long time as well as regular maintenance.
  18. fire_man Minister of Fire

    joined: Feb 6, 2009
    1,122 posts
    Eastern Ma
    Wow Dennis! You weren't kidding when you said all you ever did to that old splitter was fix a broken pull chord! That thing has treated you well.
  19. MasterMech Minister of Fire

    joined: Aug 2, 2011
    4,777 posts
    Hudson Valley NY
    Funny thing is, most folks change spark plugs like tissues "just because". Truth is, if the engine is running correctly, there just isn't enough heat/compression in flat-head type small engines to wear out a modern plug every year, five years, etc... Or in Dennis' case, 20 years....
  20. LLigetfa Minister of Fire

    joined: Nov 9, 2008
    7,310 posts
    NW Ontario
    WRT spark plugs, if it ain't broke, don't fix it. I have lots of OPE that is decades old with the original plug. I've tried changing the odd one only to find that it runs better on the old plug than the new one.
  21. Jags Super Moderator

    joined: Aug 2, 2006
    11,292 posts
    Northern Illinois
    Replace the engine oil. Replace hydro filter and leave the darn thing alone. The surface rust on the wedge and beam is all but harmless. It gets shined right back up the first splitting session you have. Spraying oil on it or wiping it down with grease (including hoses) is just calling for all sorts of crude to start collecting. Just my opinion.
    keninmich, MasterMech and smokinj like this.

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