Splitting wood for a gasifier

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salecker

Minister of Fire
Aug 22, 2010
2,230
Northern Canada
Hi
I have burnt wood in various stoves over the years,and the rule of thumb was that if you could get it thru the door you didn't split it.
From reading on here splitting seems to be required for a gasifier.
My Questions are how small do you experianced guys split it?How small or logs do you split?Are there times that you use unsplit logs?
We have standing dead spruce all around us and is the wood of choice up here,i will experiment with some poplar that i have cut around our lot.
My firebox takes 20" wood,and i have scronged 41/2 cords that is cut 12 to 16 inches,not the optimum lenght but all i had to do is load it up and haul home.I checked the moisture content and most is 20 or less,a few at 25 .
So i wanted to get the experts opinion as to hhow much splitting i have to do.
Thanks Thomas
 
I like it split pretty fine. It dries a lot faster and seems to burn better in my Tarm. And you can fit more in.
 
I split my wood so it is just about the size of a playing card, slighty larger. As Reggie said, it will dry faster, and I don't get bridging as much with smaller splits.
 
salecker said:
I checked the moisture content and most is 20 or less,a few at 25.
Many of us split small in order to get higher MC wood down to 20% or less. But that becomes less important if you can get 2+ years ahead, at which point even larger splits will have enough time to season (with a few exceptions such as some Oak). I don't have any experience with larger standing dead that's already down to 20%. So, just to make sure we're on the same page; did you split the round(s) down the middle, and test the center of the split, along the grain, with a MM? If so, the stuff at 20% would be good to go. Twitch makes a good point about bridging, but the EB firebox shape would probably allow (dry) rounds to work ok (on top of an active coal bed, of course).
 
In my experience with the EKO, the smaller the split the better, in order to reduce bridging in the upper chamber and the subsequent loss of gasification. I don't split rounds less than about 4", everything else about the size of a playing card. This has increased my splitting by about double, but it is worth the effort to eliminate the frustration of bridging.
 
Sorry LOL, on this one. I cut it, load it with a skid steer/grapple bucket into a dump truck. push it into a pile with a dozer and load it into the furnace with a two wheel hand cart. My splitter is a 460 stil which we quarter saw only the real big ones. Moisture is not a huge concern like to get a 6 months ahead on soft wood, can burn oak green. [burn chamber 100% refractory] Nowadays we burn mostly ash because of the little bug that killed them all. Second year standing, very dry by third year they are falling down, still good wood just easier to get killed.
 
I have some wood left that is 2 years dried and split, it is VERY dry.

We have mainly Pine, and splitting does make it dry faster and burn quicker and easier.

My assumption is that hardwoods where it rains a lot will be very very different from softwood where it is semi arid and you have massive solar gain. And the wind...

High of 24 today! (not Celsius)
 
A little different take on things...

I have a Tarm Solo Innova with unpressurized storage. Wish I'd done pressurized, but I didn't. Anyway, when the unit is putting out max BTU, I have a high delta temp across the boiler. Not a big deal when the tanks are at 120F, but an issue when they get warmer because the boiler trips off at 194F - and my tank could still be as low as 170F.

But, if I keep my splits large, the fire burns slower and tank temperature is closer to boiler temperature. If I make the fire just right, I can finish off the burn with 185F tank temperature (which can last as long as 7 days in the summer).

Just an alternate point of view - I know this is not a big concern with pressurized storage.

Mike
 
I find that having small splits (I agree that the cross-section of a playing card is about right) is pretty critical to getting a good light-off and getting the unit to build up an initial bed of coals to support good gasification. Once that bed of coals is nice and hot, larger wood can be used (subject to the drawback of it possibly hanging up and bridging above the coals). Large unsplit round wood is asking for the burn to bog down- it doesn't get going fast enough, and it fails to replenish the bed of coals because it remains as one big chunk.
 
The rule of thumb I have heard when trying out a new stove is that you want the splits small enough to put them four sticks wide and two or three deep/tall in the firebox. Of course your own stove and wood variety may change that a bit. I split smaller for the days with a high heat load to maximize the flammable surface area and reduce bridging. For overnights I use larger pieces to ensure some fire or coals left in the morning
 
Hi All
Thanks for the replys.I was measuring the splits in the middle for moisture content,i figured a few at higher than 20% probly would be OK.I can see that learning to use a gasifier will be a new experiance.Lighting a fire from the top down is a change.Most of the wood i scrounged is fairly short,does it matter which way you position the logs in the firebox?I'm assuming you would usally poistion same as the nozzle.Any drawbacks to going across the nozzle?
Thanks Thomas
 
I would pay the most attention to people that designed/sell your unit and people here that use your unit day-in/day-out.

Generally speaking, the Euro-style forced downdraft gasifiers want small, dry wood.

According to the manufacturers - and my personal experience - the RMND units like my GW favor big rounds. But that doesn't mean it's okay to go into the woods, fell a red Oak, drag it back home and throw it in the box
 
I cut down some dead trees 4 years ago when I did not know what kind of boiler I would get. Today I put some in my Econoburn 150 that would barely fit in the door and they burned great. My new wood I am splitting smaller. Was in the 30's today with 40 mph wind.
 
I put in about 5 2"X4" pieces, a bunch of 4"x4" and a 6" round or 2 on top. I like the dry stuff.
 
I agree that splitting down to the size of a playing card, works best in a downdraft gasser. If I have small rounds, I usually zip down the length of them with the chainsaw, just scratching through the bark. That small scratch cuts the drying time on a bark encased round in half.
 
I'm still experimenting with my Econoburn 150. And I, too, was concerned about the size of my splits - worried about bridging and pieces too large not burning up. So I split my wood, mostly maple, so that I could easily pick it up from the end with one hand. I left rounds unsplit if they were about 5" or smaller. And I threw in a cord of Poplar, just to see if my gasser would take softwood.
So - burning from Christmas to spring last winter:
- I had nothing to worry about! I never had a fire-stopping bridging. Yes I had one or two times that part of a chunk didn't burn, but never a full blown bridge. My kids sometimes chucked wood in, instead of laying it in, and a vertical piece took two fires to burn it up. But it did burn it up. I was too over-concerned about bridging.
- My Poplar burned fine. I had every piece split, including 3" diameter pieces, because it was not well seasoned before we put it it. I have a 12 cord wood room in the basement, and we put the Poplar near the middle of the wood, so I hit it in February. I burned a few dozen loads of just Poplar: it burned perfectly fine, a bit faster than the hardwood, of course, and little coals, as you would expect. But it burned no problem. This year I have about 1/3 of my wood made up of softwood: Poplar, Balsam Fir, Spruce, Pine and Water Birch. I'm burning it as I come to it, either as a whole load or mixed. It all burns.
- I'm splitting my wood larger, now. Some of the softwood is huge - 10" on a split face. It all burns without any problem.
- You'll love the ash removal. I got a Thompson's Water Seal can with the handle on the top, and cut open one whole side. It serves as my ash pail. I pull the ashes with a custom poker / shovel I made into this pail, and dump it into my ash bucket. In my old Kerr, I used to take out an ash bucket per week. Now I'm down to less than one ash bucket per month. And I hardly ever push the ashes in the firebox down to the gassification chamber. Maybe once a month.
- I start a lot of fires in my EB. In my old Kerr, I started about 12 per year, and could easily have enough coals buried in the ashed to re-start a fire. I probably only used 24 pieces of kindling in the Kerr per year. In the EB, I make a new fire about 5-10 times per week. I now have a fresh supply of Cedar kindling ready to go. But I have a great system for starting a fire: in the bottom of the firebox, I put two pieces of Cedar in a 10 and 4 O'clock position across the refractory slot. Then I tear up about 2 full sheets of newspaper into strips and spread them all over the Cedar. Then I add one more piece of kindling, in a 2 and 8 O'clock position across the slot. Then a couple of splits on top of the kindling, and then whatever I can grab on top of that. I close the firebox door, but leave the draft in the bypass position. I take one more sheet of newspaper and fold it backwards into its original 1/4 page size, but since it is backwards, it is wrinlky and loose. I put this on top of my gasification brick, and light it. The flame usually pulls up through the slot, and my firebox paper and Cedar start popping. In 10 minutes, I close the gassification door and start the boiler up. It works EVERY time! (Okay - sometimes I have to use a second piece of newspaper in the gasification chamber, but it still works!)

There's my epistle. Split large but dry, burn softwood if you want, use my fire starting method and laugh about how little ashes you remove.
I can't wait until I add (more) pressurized storage. My little 60 gallons only showed me that I want 1000!
Happy burning.
 
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