Ran into a fan issue. Check on boiler and I find the fan humming and just creeping along. Turn power switch off and back on and the fan goes into high speed and settles down into low speed like it should. I was finally in shed when aquastat turned back on and the fan just hummed and crept. Checked voltage at aquastat and a solid 110 going to fan. Talked to Dale at econoburn and he had me change a setting on the nimbus board. I got talking to him about the controls and he said the Aquastat is supposed to be used as a high temp safety shutoff not as a regular shutoff. I asked him if the fan is designed to be running all the time and he said yes except for the occasional high temp aquastat shut off. Basically the dip switch setting adjustment he told me to make, runs the fan slower on slow speed so it is more geared to maintaining temps rather than raising them. I still have a feeling I'm going to see the humming fan barely moving but I'll follow directions for now.
Spoke too soon-Econoburn fan issue
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wantstoburnwood
Member
Dale is full of knowledge . He won't lead you astray on this issue Did he go through all the settings with you? My settings got all messed up when I was installing my boiler
He had me change my temp settings before the dip switch change. He wanted set temp at 165 and my aquastat at 200. But the boiler went up to 200 and the aquastat shut it down again. Problem is the digital was at 219 and went into high temp alarm 30 seconds later. The digital display calibration is another issue with me. Its still going 20* higher than the aquastat,side analog temp gauge and the oil analog temp gauge, all of which report the same temp.
I like the slower fan speed he had me set up. It matches my heat load better. Now my temp creeps up slower when in slow speed. Plus I'm sure it's not burning as much wood at the slower speed. I'm pretty sure something is up with the motor speed modulator but I'm not the expert. So I'll keep doing what he tells me until things are good. He was also surprised to hear my digital was 20* higher than the other gauges but he kind of blew it off I think mostly because it was Friday afternoon 30 minutes before quitting time and he was more concerned about my fan issue. I'll follow up on everything Monday,Tuesday,Wed........whatever it takes.
All that said, this boiler is great! It will be that much better when all bugs are worked out. Even when fan is stuck humming, as soon as temp drops and it tells it to go in high, it takes off and all is well for a while. I don't even notice the temp difference in the house when this happens. I just know it's not right. Oh by the way, Dip switch came set with all down except 5 and 7 up. He changed mine to all down except 3 and 7 up. That puts your slow speed at a slower speed.
I like the slower fan speed he had me set up. It matches my heat load better. Now my temp creeps up slower when in slow speed. Plus I'm sure it's not burning as much wood at the slower speed. I'm pretty sure something is up with the motor speed modulator but I'm not the expert. So I'll keep doing what he tells me until things are good. He was also surprised to hear my digital was 20* higher than the other gauges but he kind of blew it off I think mostly because it was Friday afternoon 30 minutes before quitting time and he was more concerned about my fan issue. I'll follow up on everything Monday,Tuesday,Wed........whatever it takes.
All that said, this boiler is great! It will be that much better when all bugs are worked out. Even when fan is stuck humming, as soon as temp drops and it tells it to go in high, it takes off and all is well for a while. I don't even notice the temp difference in the house when this happens. I just know it's not right. Oh by the way, Dip switch came set with all down except 5 and 7 up. He changed mine to all down except 3 and 7 up. That puts your slow speed at a slower speed.
Fred61
Minister of Fire
That low speed fan was the reason I went with the EKO. I liked everything about the EB except for that feature. Although I was probably wrong because forum members that have EBs haven't reported that problem, I suspected the slow speed would result in a small dirty fire, creating creosote. If my EKO reached the upper limit setpoint and then the fan continued to operate it would be only minutes until it went to an overheat mode.
New development. The 2 amp fuse blew sometime over night Friday into Saturday. It protects the plc and the motor speed control board. I'm sure it's because the fan sat there humming for a while during the night. Called and left a message with all the developments for Dale. I'm confident he'll get back with me Monday A.M. I'll keep everyone posted.
heaterman
Minister of Fire
I am not at liberty to say a lot about it but I believe that EconoBurn's upcoming new control will address the High/Low/Off function leaving the Honeywell 4006 to serve only as a secondary high limit per normal boiler code.
With a little luck, maybe I'll get a new control as a fix for my problem. :cheese: I'd love to see a variable speed control to maintain a temp rather than just high low. Maybe a more precise thermocouple setup also. Others have reported a 10-12 temp difference from digital to side readout. Mine being 20* difference is a problem if I need water temps near 200*. If boiler goes idle at 200* water temp, the digital already has it at 220* which sets off over temp.
heaterman
Minister of Fire
b33p3r said:
Still under construction and it will be a while until it is ready for the market so don't hold your breath. I'll just say the new control will contain a number of nice usable features.
I have been scratching my head over this issue for a while now...
Numbus board issues with the Econoburn controls are nothing new, even on new boilers. I have had my share of them for sure, and in fact, several "discussions" with the factory about the problem. Apparently they are now saying that the high limit aquastat was never intended to shut down the fan except in emergency cases... this after finding out that switching the fan back on in low fire is drawing too many amps through the nimbus board and burning them out. Problem is, if there is no call for heat, the boiler is absolutely going shut the fan off at some point. They maintain that the boiler will not overheat in low fire... that there is only enough air to keep the coals alive... but when I open the bottom of a 150 on low fire and see an 1800° torch that is 6" long coming out of the nozzle... that seems like more than just keeping the coals alive.
I had one of my customers get service directly from econoburn a week or so ago for this very issue. They swapped the nimbus board, and reset the dip switches so the fan on low fire would just barely turn... this was an attempt to keep the fan running all the time so that you don't have that high amp draw through the numbus board when the high limit aquastat releases... problem is... the boiler doesn't gasify at this slow fan speed... and it creosoted up terribly in just a few days time while burning way more wood than normal. Ultimately, the customer just said forget the low fire, and set his digital aquastat higher than the mechanical... now the mechanical aquastat controls the boiler, and he only has high fire. Econoburn seems okay with this setup.... so now I am considering sending my own letters out to customers telling them about the issue and how to try to prevent it.
The funny thing is, this isn't a hard fix... a time delay relay to run the fan flat out for 5 or 10 seconds on startup would solve the problem in a heartbeat... but doubtful that econoburn will add this feature to older boilers with warranty issues.
cheers
Numbus board issues with the Econoburn controls are nothing new, even on new boilers. I have had my share of them for sure, and in fact, several "discussions" with the factory about the problem. Apparently they are now saying that the high limit aquastat was never intended to shut down the fan except in emergency cases... this after finding out that switching the fan back on in low fire is drawing too many amps through the nimbus board and burning them out. Problem is, if there is no call for heat, the boiler is absolutely going shut the fan off at some point. They maintain that the boiler will not overheat in low fire... that there is only enough air to keep the coals alive... but when I open the bottom of a 150 on low fire and see an 1800° torch that is 6" long coming out of the nozzle... that seems like more than just keeping the coals alive.
I had one of my customers get service directly from econoburn a week or so ago for this very issue. They swapped the nimbus board, and reset the dip switches so the fan on low fire would just barely turn... this was an attempt to keep the fan running all the time so that you don't have that high amp draw through the numbus board when the high limit aquastat releases... problem is... the boiler doesn't gasify at this slow fan speed... and it creosoted up terribly in just a few days time while burning way more wood than normal. Ultimately, the customer just said forget the low fire, and set his digital aquastat higher than the mechanical... now the mechanical aquastat controls the boiler, and he only has high fire. Econoburn seems okay with this setup.... so now I am considering sending my own letters out to customers telling them about the issue and how to try to prevent it.
The funny thing is, this isn't a hard fix... a time delay relay to run the fan flat out for 5 or 10 seconds on startup would solve the problem in a heartbeat... but doubtful that econoburn will add this feature to older boilers with warranty issues.
cheers
This is interesting stuff Piker, and you certainly have much inside information that the rest of us aren't privy to. I have a different perspective, based only on my own experience. This aquastat/controller thing has been like a Twilight Zone episode for me (yikes, my age is showing therePiker said:
). This post will be long, but I need to include the background. I've been running my 150 since Nov 2008. During the first few days, the boiler temp would eventually hit what is referred to as "overtemp" - light flashing and buzzer going off. I didn't know what was going on because the boiler was not actually close to boiling over. Then someone with another boiler mentioned that the aquastat needed to be set down, and I also saw the same thing mentioned on the forum. So, I dropped the Honeywell aquastat to around 193*, and the light show stopped happening. I ran the boiler like this for 2 years fat, dumb, and happy - no reason to believe it wasn't correct. The boiler was performing well, and we used essentially no oil for 2 years. Then early this Fall I got the "humming", stopped fan as described previously. So, I called Dale and he told me the Honeywell is only supposed to be a fail-safe. Ok, I said, then tell me what I should be doing. He had me do the dip setting swap (the 5/3, not the one Piker described), and also the TC33 high limit down to 210*, based on our heating needs. Plus the Honeywell raised above 210* to function as the fail-safe. Then I ran a few larger loads, just to see what happened when the upper limit is reached. The TC33 was working ok temp-wise, stopping the fan at 209*, and starting up again around 201 (based on the 10* differential setting that I'm using). The lower fan setting also performed better, so everything was great except for one thing - the light and buzzer were back. I figured there must also be a controller setting to stop the light and buzzer, so I called Dale about that. I was fairly amazed when he told me that the solution was to BREAK the buzzer. He told me to unscrew the cap, and snap the black buzzer in the center with pliers. I did that and no more buzzer - just the blinking red light remains - no problem with that. But there is one more bizarre thing related to this. Dale told me that by setting the Honeywell up, the fan would continue to run on low speed (as Piker mentioned above). I just cannot understand that statement, and sent him an email to see if there was something I'm missing about this. I can't imagine any gasser that could allow a fan to continue running, even at low speed, unless the load always exceeds the boiler output. That's certainly not the case for me - all zones eventually shut off, and the boiler would boil over if the fan continued to run. I was hoping he would reply by saying that the fan continues to run until it hits the TC33 high limit, but based on what Piker wrote above, that's not going to happen. So at this point I don't know what's right or wrong, but as far as I'm concerned, the TC33 seems to be doing everything that it needs to, in the manner that it should, and the boiler is performing better than it ever has. And there is the additional bonus of having a blinking red light whenever it's idling - I've actually come to think of this "overtemp" as the idling indicator light :lol: So, I wonder if the "new" controller is the offspring of the TC33, with a user-friendly way added to shut off the "overtemp" buzzer and the light.My only problem with letting the tc33 go to high alarm is it turns on my circulator in the house to bring down the temp of the boiler during a high temp alarm. I want the house to be warm but..........
Piker, my 150 during what I think is a normal cycle, will normally run the fan for 2-4 seconds on high when it comes out of idle then ramp down to slow. However I have been there when the it came out of idle and the fan did "NOT" go into high speed. It just seemed to try to start in slow speed. Thus the problem.
I will probably try the idea of setting my tc33 higher than the aquastat. That will give me high fan all the time..until the aquastat shuts it down again...right. It would seem that I'll have alot more idle time running the fan on high all the time though. Yes? Do you think that will burn more or less wood? Probably less creosote though do you think?
I thought I noticed more creosote this morning when I checked on the boiler But thought maybe the fuse blowing and the boiler sitting idle for a while was the cause. He had me lower my fan speed yesterday afternoon with the dip switch. So that would account for the creosote. Thanks for all the info. Being new to burning wood, not only the 150 this is all great info for me. Especially since I'll be talking to Dale probably on Monday.
Piker, my 150 during what I think is a normal cycle, will normally run the fan for 2-4 seconds on high when it comes out of idle then ramp down to slow. However I have been there when the it came out of idle and the fan did "NOT" go into high speed. It just seemed to try to start in slow speed. Thus the problem.
I will probably try the idea of setting my tc33 higher than the aquastat. That will give me high fan all the time..until the aquastat shuts it down again...right. It would seem that I'll have alot more idle time running the fan on high all the time though. Yes? Do you think that will burn more or less wood? Probably less creosote though do you think?
I thought I noticed more creosote this morning when I checked on the boiler But thought maybe the fuse blowing and the boiler sitting idle for a while was the cause. He had me lower my fan speed yesterday afternoon with the dip switch. So that would account for the creosote. Thanks for all the info. Being new to burning wood, not only the 150 this is all great info for me. Especially since I'll be talking to Dale probably on Monday.
Twilight zone indeed. Break the buzzer... that's priceless. Suddenly, the light and buzzer that were designed for overtemp are where econoburn now runs their boilers in idle.... yet the high limit aquastat that by the original design was to be set lower than the 220 overtemp alarm (tons of boilers shipped with that set to 180)... was never meant to be tripped... that's mostly just insanity.
The other issue is that when your light and sound show are going on... well, light show after you break the buzzer (OMG that's just too much)... The dump zone is also energized. So if you have the boiler hooked up according to the manual, you have do dump all the excess heat that the boiler makes when idling. This is all just nonsense. It seems like they are grasping at straws... and I better digress here before I start to get unprofessional sounding about the matter.
That fact that lower air volumes through the boiler makes your boiler run better doesn't surprise me. Some of my own experimenting here and with a few of my customer's boilers seems to indicate that there was far to many CFM's being run through the boiler that basically just carried too many btus away. This makes more sense to me now that I have a few solo plus boilers up and running... I haven't taken any precise measurements, but just by the size of the fans and the volume (decibels) of the air flow they seem to have far fewer cfms flowing through them. The problem is that if you just have the fan spinning a few rpm, you don't get the secondary burn... just high output smoldering. That's a bad idea.
-cheers
The other issue is that when your light and sound show are going on... well, light show after you break the buzzer (OMG that's just too much)... The dump zone is also energized. So if you have the boiler hooked up according to the manual, you have do dump all the excess heat that the boiler makes when idling. This is all just nonsense. It seems like they are grasping at straws... and I better digress here before I start to get unprofessional sounding about the matter.
That fact that lower air volumes through the boiler makes your boiler run better doesn't surprise me. Some of my own experimenting here and with a few of my customer's boilers seems to indicate that there was far to many CFM's being run through the boiler that basically just carried too many btus away. This makes more sense to me now that I have a few solo plus boilers up and running... I haven't taken any precise measurements, but just by the size of the fans and the volume (decibels) of the air flow they seem to have far fewer cfms flowing through them. The problem is that if you just have the fan spinning a few rpm, you don't get the secondary burn... just high output smoldering. That's a bad idea.
-cheers
b33p3r said:
If you run the fan on high setting all the time, you might consider closing the shutter on the front of the fan to about 1/3 open...
There's just no good answer here... and nothing coherent from the factory that I have heard on the matter. Most of the control issues we've had as far as digital readouts jumping around all over the place, grounding issues, line voltage fluctuations, etc etc etc... can be dealt with in one way or another in the field to get things to at least work - may not work great, probably cost me a few hours and a few dollars, but will work nonetheless. Design issues that result in premature component failure is an altogether different issue... and of course, breaking the buzzer and changing settings to get around that is just weird.
cheers
sdrobertson
Minister of Fire
Piker said:
Just a observation.....quite a while ago there was a post on running EKO's with only one of the two fans running. I've been running for two years with only one and I have seen good results. My father is also only running on one....we just closed the shutter on the disconnected fan and are keeping them for a spare.
Another issue I have come across is econoburn controls that cannot handle any fluctuation in line voltage whatsoever... even if the boiler is on a a dedicated circuit. The digital readout can jump 100° and set off the flashing light and buzzer... or just the flashing light if you decided to "break the buzzer." I have also had the fan motor's bleeding voltage into the neutral or ground on these controls, causing similar issues.
One of the factory's responses to this was to place a jumper between the neutral and the ground right on the boiler wiring panel. This is clearly against electrical code, as the only place the ground is to be bonded to the neutral is in your service panel. This is coded this way for safety, and anyone using a jumper should remove it. I made this code violation explicitly clear to them over a year ago, but I have no idea how many boilers they have shipped with this jumper, or how many customers they have told (or are still telling) to install the jumper themselves. Perhaps as many as they have told to break the buzzer.
I would expect any new product to have a few issues here and there... so to be fair, this stuff isn't necessarily out of the ordinary... but coming up with band-aids instead of real long term solutions for existing customers is unprofessional. I am lucky... I have enough wherewithal to construct new controls for my customer's boilers as they fail outside of warranty... controls that are simpler, cheaper, and more reliable... but the folks who purchased boilers factory direct may not have that advantage. This is kind of a sad situation actually. When you approach them about a failed nimbus board, they keep going back to that "the boiler was never meant to shut off by the mechanical aquastat" line. This is just completely false, and is a direct contradiction to how the boilers were marketed over the past several years.
cheers
One of the factory's responses to this was to place a jumper between the neutral and the ground right on the boiler wiring panel. This is clearly against electrical code, as the only place the ground is to be bonded to the neutral is in your service panel. This is coded this way for safety, and anyone using a jumper should remove it. I made this code violation explicitly clear to them over a year ago, but I have no idea how many boilers they have shipped with this jumper, or how many customers they have told (or are still telling) to install the jumper themselves. Perhaps as many as they have told to break the buzzer.
I would expect any new product to have a few issues here and there... so to be fair, this stuff isn't necessarily out of the ordinary... but coming up with band-aids instead of real long term solutions for existing customers is unprofessional. I am lucky... I have enough wherewithal to construct new controls for my customer's boilers as they fail outside of warranty... controls that are simpler, cheaper, and more reliable... but the folks who purchased boilers factory direct may not have that advantage. This is kind of a sad situation actually. When you approach them about a failed nimbus board, they keep going back to that "the boiler was never meant to shut off by the mechanical aquastat" line. This is just completely false, and is a direct contradiction to how the boilers were marketed over the past several years.
cheers
wantstoburnwood
Member
Duane my electrician opposed this jumper from day one. I will take it off right away my boiler will set off the alarm but I was not advised to break the buzzer but it sounds like a good idea
My dump zone doesn't get activated. I have the EB piped in series with the OB, so at idle time the near-loop circulation between the 2 boilers is enough to stabilize and allow the WB temp to drop enough to restart the fan. The lower fan speed/air volume resulting from the 5/3 dip setting change has definitely made for better efficiency, but also more idling due to satisfying the load faster. I was a bit concerned about possible creosote forming in the HX tubes due to the lower fan speed/extra idling. This Summer I changed the turbulator linkage to allow in-season access from the top plate, so this morning I pulled the turbs and sent a brush down - no creosote so far. Thanks for your input Piker - it's good to have a pro on the job ;-)Piker said:
Singed Eyebrows
Minister of Fire
As usual it seems to be the controls that give the grief. My Atmos is not perfect either. There is no reason they couldn't put a high flue gas kick out for the fan or even better an adjustable one. The German GSE Atmos relies on flue gas temps to control the Belimo servomotor, as it should be. All far down the list to a Lambda boiler though, IMHO, RandyPiker said:
HMM--
I've been pleased so far with my Econoburn, and I would like the company to succeed (good to see something like this being built in the US) but some of this is indeed weird.
I ran into some high limit situations when I first commissioned my boiler in January 09. and was definitely told at the time (by the company's VP Mark Odell) to set the Honeywell mechanical aquastat to cut the fan at a temperature low enough to keep the boiler from hitting the alarm point. I was specifically told that the mechanical aquastat's role was to prevent temperature overshoot.
Also, the idea that the original factory-set low speed fan was/is supposed to result in no upward temperature movement is something out of fantasyland.
I have found that while high fan speed will raise my boiler temp faster if speed alone is the only goal from a cool start, I definitely seem to get more useful heat per unit wood with the fan operating at low speed. When I don't have an immediate need to pull the house up from being really cold, I will sometimes set the PID controller so that it runs the fan at low speed the whole time-- and have seen my boiler go from 80 to +/- 195 that way, including having the house call on the boiler for heat as soon as it goes above 150.
I've been pleased so far with my Econoburn, and I would like the company to succeed (good to see something like this being built in the US) but some of this is indeed weird.
I ran into some high limit situations when I first commissioned my boiler in January 09. and was definitely told at the time (by the company's VP Mark Odell) to set the Honeywell mechanical aquastat to cut the fan at a temperature low enough to keep the boiler from hitting the alarm point. I was specifically told that the mechanical aquastat's role was to prevent temperature overshoot.
Also, the idea that the original factory-set low speed fan was/is supposed to result in no upward temperature movement is something out of fantasyland.
I have found that while high fan speed will raise my boiler temp faster if speed alone is the only goal from a cool start, I definitely seem to get more useful heat per unit wood with the fan operating at low speed. When I don't have an immediate need to pull the house up from being really cold, I will sometimes set the PID controller so that it runs the fan at low speed the whole time-- and have seen my boiler go from 80 to +/- 195 that way, including having the house call on the boiler for heat as soon as it goes above 150.
Pybyr, I too would like to see this company succeed. However, if people looking for info on what boiler to buy, come to a sight like this and see the issues with the boilers not getting resolved..well that's not a good thing. I hope they resolve my fan issue this week but time will tell. I too liked the slow speed but if the only way I can ensure the fan will start, then I'll have to run it in high all the time.....at least until they get my issue resolved. I'm pulling for them.
Here is a different take on Econoburn's current problems - as always JMHO . Before getting into that, I'll say that I believe they sell very well-built boilers. There are no stories of dripping panels as the Greenie and Seaton owners have, and no manufacturing/quality issues with the boiler itself (at least not posted on this forum). That said, I believe that from the beginning, they have taken the wrong position on how their boilers should be run. Nothing in their marketing approach would indicate to a potential buyer that thermal storage is essential to the optimal functioning of their boilers. They do understand creosote issues - my 2 year old boiler has a message stamped on it: "Only 20% wood or less". But, as we know, that's only one part of the problem, because long periods of idling causes creosote issues even with 20% wood. So, it seems that they have gone in multiple directions with regard to the controls, and fan operation, in an attempt to resolve every individual issue that comes along. In the process, there are multiple messages being delivered, creating lots of confusion among the owners. I believe they should fall into line with many of the other major manufacturers; and have a policy that basically says "thermal storage is essential for good operation, and you need to clearly understand the issues if you are planning to run without it, prior to purchasing the unit". Having something like that in place, they can then say very simply - we warned you, now either get storage or burn smaller fires. Forget about trying to get the fan to continuously spin at 2 rpm. I was fortunate to find this forum before buying my boiler, so I was well aware in advance of all the issues of running without storage. I'm fine with running the boiler this way - not nearly as good as with storage, but we make it work. But some buyers are not aware of these issues, and I believe that's where most of Econoburn's problems reside. Right now it's apparent that they are trying to be all things to all idlers.
Some interesting issues to take note of in this thread. My 150 had the overheat circuit go dead leaving the overheat
zone open. A call to the factory with Dale doing a long distance diagnosis resulting in new overheat relay shipped out.
A good number of devices with these new boards used in appliances have given me problems, my new Weil-McLain boiler shuts down after a power outage and has to be rebooted. Not a comforting thought when leaving in the winter for
a few days. The factory sent out a relay box to put inline but not much of a fix IMO. The older controls use on maytags are
far more reliable than the new electronics according to the appliance repairmen I've spoken with. Even high end
Viking ranges are prone to board failure.
I'm very satisified with my EB 150 to date but I suspect if there is something to worry about it is the controls. I also
was advised that the aquastat was the high temp shut off not the board...news to me
I put a switch on the Aquastat wire which lets me shut off the fan to reload without shutting down the unit. On a couple of occasions on restart, the fan just hums and I then have to flip the main switch off/on to get it going again. Since I'm running without storage and go to idle a lot I can see that being a potential failure point. If one of the techs on this board has some
insight to this issue I'd be interested in hearing more.. MM
zone open. A call to the factory with Dale doing a long distance diagnosis resulting in new overheat relay shipped out.
A good number of devices with these new boards used in appliances have given me problems, my new Weil-McLain boiler shuts down after a power outage and has to be rebooted. Not a comforting thought when leaving in the winter for
a few days. The factory sent out a relay box to put inline but not much of a fix IMO. The older controls use on maytags are
far more reliable than the new electronics according to the appliance repairmen I've spoken with. Even high end
Viking ranges are prone to board failure.
I'm very satisified with my EB 150 to date but I suspect if there is something to worry about it is the controls. I also
was advised that the aquastat was the high temp shut off not the board...news to me
I put a switch on the Aquastat wire which lets me shut off the fan to reload without shutting down the unit. On a couple of occasions on restart, the fan just hums and I then have to flip the main switch off/on to get it going again. Since I'm running without storage and go to idle a lot I can see that being a potential failure point. If one of the techs on this board has some
insight to this issue I'd be interested in hearing more.. MM
I spoke with Dale this morning. He's sending me a new nimbus(spelling?) board. I would like to be perfectly clear to everyone. I'm not unhappy with the boiler. I've read the specs on the boiler plate dimensions and such. It's a solid boiler! The tech support is great. I mentioned in an earlier post that he may have blew off a comment about the digital temp being 20* off but I also mentioned one line later that he only had 30 minutes left in his shift and he was focusing on my major issue being the fan. The fan will keep me warm. The digital temp is a convenience. I only started my boiler 5 days ago and since I've realized the 20* temp difference is a buffer zone for me. I actually told him I was good with the buffer. If it alarms at 220, my actual water temp is 200. I only need 170-180*. I can work around that.
My biggest concern right now is the 2 amp fuse blowing in the middle of the night. I'm setup so the oil boiler will kick on if the wood boiler isn't circulating to the house so a cold house isn't my concern, but I bought the wood boiler so I didn't have to buy more oil.
Now, someone on here has a direct connection to Dale because Dale felt I was trash talking the company. For the record, My name is not Duane. And if all my posts are read again everyone will see I'm pulling for Econoburn. Now they need to do the right thing and make all owners happy. Then they will be a very successful company. Admit the faults and correct them. Learn from mistakes etc etc.
Just my opinion, they should program their fan controllers so you can set a min and a max. < min fan runs full out. > max the fan shuts off. In between they can work their magic. I agree the aquastat should be over temp shutoff only. But it won't be unless the boiler internals are set to stop it. I've seen temps drop/rise 20-30* in a 12 hour period where I live, so if a boiler keeps the coals alive during a rise in ambient temps, the temp is bound to satisfy the aquastat unless the fire is choked.
Start admitting you need storage and you are in direct competition with Garn. Hmmmm?
I'll keep posting until my boiler stops blowing fuses and making me buy more oil.
My biggest concern right now is the 2 amp fuse blowing in the middle of the night. I'm setup so the oil boiler will kick on if the wood boiler isn't circulating to the house so a cold house isn't my concern, but I bought the wood boiler so I didn't have to buy more oil.
Now, someone on here has a direct connection to Dale because Dale felt I was trash talking the company. For the record, My name is not Duane. And if all my posts are read again everyone will see I'm pulling for Econoburn. Now they need to do the right thing and make all owners happy. Then they will be a very successful company. Admit the faults and correct them. Learn from mistakes etc etc.
Just my opinion, they should program their fan controllers so you can set a min and a max. < min fan runs full out. > max the fan shuts off. In between they can work their magic. I agree the aquastat should be over temp shutoff only. But it won't be unless the boiler internals are set to stop it. I've seen temps drop/rise 20-30* in a 12 hour period where I live, so if a boiler keeps the coals alive during a rise in ambient temps, the temp is bound to satisfy the aquastat unless the fire is choked.
Start admitting you need storage and you are in direct competition with Garn. Hmmmm?
I'll keep posting until my boiler stops blowing fuses and making me buy more oil.
I spoke with Dale this morning. He's sending me a new nimbus(spelling?) board. I would like to be perfectly clear to everyone. I'm not unhappy with the boiler. I've read the specs on the boiler plate dimensions and such. It's a solid boiler! The tech support is great. I mentioned in an earlier post that he may have blew off a comment about the digital temp being 20* off but I also mentioned one line later that he only had 30 minutes left in his shift and he was focusing on my major issue being the fan. The fan will keep me warm. The digital temp is a convenience. I only started my boiler 5 days ago and since I've realized the 20* temp difference is a buffer zone for me. I actually told him I was good with the buffer. If it alarms at 220, my actual water temp is 200. I only need 170-180*. I can work around that.
My biggest concern right now is the 2 amp fuse blowing in the middle of the night. I'm setup so the oil boiler will kick on if the wood boiler isn't circulating to the house so a cold house isn't my concern, but I bought the wood boiler so I didn't have to buy more oil.
Now, someone on here has a direct connection to Dale because Dale felt I was trash talking the company. For the record, My name is not Duane. And if all my posts are read again everyone will see I'm pulling for Econoburn. Now they need to do the right thing and make all owners happy. Then they will be a very successful company. Admit the faults and correct them. Learn from mistakes etc etc.
Just my opinion, they should program their fan controllers so you can set a min and a max. < min fan runs full out. > max the fan shuts off. In between they can work their magic. I agree the aquastat should be over temp shutoff only. But it won't be unless the boiler internals are set to stop it. I've seen temps drop/rise 20-30* in a 12 hour period where I live, so if a boiler keeps the coals alive during a rise in ambient temps, the temp is bound to satisfy the aquastat unless the fire is choked.
Start admitting you need storage and you are in direct competition with Garn. Hmmmm?
I'll keep posting until my boiler stops blowing fuses and making me buy more oil.
My biggest concern right now is the 2 amp fuse blowing in the middle of the night. I'm setup so the oil boiler will kick on if the wood boiler isn't circulating to the house so a cold house isn't my concern, but I bought the wood boiler so I didn't have to buy more oil.
Now, someone on here has a direct connection to Dale because Dale felt I was trash talking the company. For the record, My name is not Duane. And if all my posts are read again everyone will see I'm pulling for Econoburn. Now they need to do the right thing and make all owners happy. Then they will be a very successful company. Admit the faults and correct them. Learn from mistakes etc etc.
Just my opinion, they should program their fan controllers so you can set a min and a max. < min fan runs full out. > max the fan shuts off. In between they can work their magic. I agree the aquastat should be over temp shutoff only. But it won't be unless the boiler internals are set to stop it. I've seen temps drop/rise 20-30* in a 12 hour period where I live, so if a boiler keeps the coals alive during a rise in ambient temps, the temp is bound to satisfy the aquastat unless the fire is choked.
Start admitting you need storage and you are in direct competition with Garn. Hmmmm?
I'll keep posting until my boiler stops blowing fuses and making me buy more oil.
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