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Spraying you firebox for summer question

Post in 'The Pellet Mill - Pellet and Multifuel Stoves' started by Tonyray, May 11, 2014.

  1. Tonyray

    Tonyray Minister of Fire

    Joined:
    Dec 11, 2013
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    Loc:
    Bucks county/North of Phila Eagles
    been reading about many here who spray the walls and burnpot with either cooking spray[non- flavored I assume lol] or WD-40 at final cleaning etc..
    QUESTION IS :
    is that it or do you do a re-spray again before Heating season comes or not?;sick
    Can't Imagine it stays potent for next 6 months..
    I do have box of Damp rid sitting in the Ash Pan now & also used piece of foam rubber to block off my OAK vent holes outside. so just wondering about the spray..

    just had a thought
    : If the OAK vent is blocked, how else does any moisture get into the stove If in fact it does...
    Last edited: May 11, 2014

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  2. Don2222

    Don2222 Minister of Fire

    Joined:
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    Loc:
    Salem NH
    Hello Tony

    If the stove is in a Damp Area, then dampness will get in!
    Hope these few suggestions help and then when your all done throw in some Damp Rid.

    This is what I did to my old P61
    Clean fire brick with brick and stone cleaner. Then throughly vacuum the inside and wire brush with drill driver. Then wipe down with Acetone from Home Depot. Then using Flat Black VHS Ultra High Temp 2,000 Deg F Flame Proof spray paint from the auto parts store and give it that show room look for the summer!
    See some pics here.
    http://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/...pdated-door-harman-style.110317/#post-1457291

    Here are a few other things I did that you can do too! Just because a stove is new, does NOT mean it is free from Auger Pox! Drops of splattered weld and burrs from poor quality control!

    To get the dead stove running like new, I removed the auger pox and installed an auto ignition update kit which now comes with a whole new wiring harness for good electrical connections!
    See >>http://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/holy-harman-auger-pox-batman.109241/#post-1439352

    Then did the Pimp Your Ash Pan!
    See > http://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/time-to-pimp-your-ash-pan-harman-style.109333/

    After updating the old golden fire brown to Satin black it was time to deep 6 the gold door and gold trim.

    Then a hopper extension was added using nuts and bolts for a very secure install!
    Going from a 70 lb hopper to 130 lbs make the stove go much longer without adding pellets!
    http://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/...pper-extension-drill-and-bolts-needed.108376/

    There are lots of nice tile choices. See more info, pics of choices and the gristmill I have here.
    http://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/...r-and-trim-is-your-stove.108659/#post-1428904

    This old stove has a serial # WHI-004221 makes it one of the oldest P61 and hardest to update.
    The benefit is, that it has a cast iron fines door and heavier parts. A real tank that can be totally updated!

    The bright nickel trim kit is the way to go, but the tile frame only fits the newer ash doors that have the recess. This stove has the old flush mount tile which may fall out if the old glue dries out that holds the small metal L clips in each corner of the frame. I had one corner fall apart and used High Temp RTV to repair it. That fixed it for good!
    The more expensive way to upgrade the old gold tile trim, is to purchase a new ash door for $110 and slip it right on to the hinges. The as door is not usually stocked at the their depots and takes longer to get. I just took the original frame and threw some chrome paint on it. See pic below!

    The upgraded new style door will fit this old bugger if you use the old door's hinge pins! The new stoves have the hinge pins welded to the body of the stove. The old handle will also fit and can be screwed right in.
    The glass for the door is the neo or pyro ceram glass which is now the standard. OnlyHarman has neoceram mirror glass and only for their P68 model! The only way to get if for the P61 or P61a is to cut down the P68 glass!
    See more info on glass > http://www.onedayglass.com/kb/faq_qanda.php?id=88
    You can but this neoceram glass at most local glass cutters. When it breaks, you can see the yellow tinge it has on the slivers of the broken glass pieces. This has a much higher temperature rating than the Tempered glass.

    The nickel trim kit comes with a cobal drill bit to drill thru the cast iron door to mount the bright nickel trim. Wow, it got dull on the 4th hole! It easy to drill, because on the inside of the door above the door gasket in each corner is a recessed hole molded into the cast iron where drilling starts.

    I finally got the trim on the door and door on the stove and the door did not close! I had to get out the DeWalt jig saw and cut the stove body to fit the new rounder door handle!

    The lovre's can be chrome painted but the new nickel lovere grill is the way to go because it is high temp and can easily be set right in there!
  3. bob bare

    bob bare Minister of Fire

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    Air will move in and out through exhaust with temperature changes,wind,pressure.Spray it up and check once in a while.Have seen more sove damage from stoves left with ash in them,it collects moisture,have seen it damage heat exchanger tubes.
  4. Tonyray

    Tonyray Minister of Fire

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    Do any of you spray the heat exchanger?
  5. bob bare

    bob bare Minister of Fire

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    If I have stove apart cleaning and not going to start it for a while,yes I do,but I use moly or graphite.Kind of a moot point here as I have been known to use stove every month of the year,and lower humidity here,not like when I lived in MD where everything rusts in 3 days!You can spray anything in the combustion/exhaust and will not hurt.
  6. Tonyray

    Tonyray Minister of Fire

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    Thanks//
  7. sinnian

    sinnian Minister of Fire

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    A light in the burn pot can help stave off moisture too
  8. DneprDave

    DneprDave Feeling the Heat

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    Western WA
    It's not something I've ever considered. Inside stuff doesn't rust around here.

    WD 40 will not last more than a few days, it is not oil and will evaporate.

    Dave
  9. bob bare

    bob bare Minister of Fire

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    Most oils are hygroscopic,not a good choice for rust prevention.WD40's original purpose was to displace moisture,leaves behind a film.They also make a long term rust preventative.I prefer moly,but very expensive.
  10. bobdog2o02

    bobdog2o02 Minister of Fire

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    ACF 50. Its used in the aircraft world for waterproofing sensitive airplane parts. comes in a spraycan. I use it on offroad motorcycles. Spray a coat on and the dirt will rinse off with no scrubbing. It also hangs around for up to 6 months from my experience. WD is a water displacer and it;s main ingredient is actually fish oil. WD will do a good job of displacing water for about a month......
  11. bob bare

    bob bare Minister of Fire

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    And yet another person fooled into thinking wd40 is made from/has fish oil.
    bobdog2o02 likes this.
  12. bobdog2o02

    bobdog2o02 Minister of Fire

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    I put that in there just to see who would pipe up........... i thought it was hilarious the first time i heard someone say that:p
  13. bob bare

    bob bare Minister of Fire

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    acf 50 is great stuff,but like moly expensive for just a stove.And hardware stores do not carry it.I worked with old guys that wd40 their arthritic joints for over 20 years,do not know if it helped,but they swore by it.I am sure the stoddard solvent would be absorbed by the body quite readily.Being a mechanic there are much better seized bolt products,have been for years,but still keep wd around for other uses.My fav. has to be pb blaster.
  14. bobdog2o02

    bobdog2o02 Minister of Fire

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    ditto on the pb, good chit.
    i heard of a diy solution for a penetrant. I think it was paint thinner or kerosene and acetone. Haven't tried it and I'm not good enough with chemistry to know if i would be making a bomb or not.....
  15. mchasal

    mchasal Burning Hunk

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    Hudson Valley, NY

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