Squeeky Hinge

[kd460]

My insert door has started to squeek when I open and close it. Thought about lube or grease, then thought about the smell when the lube or grease would get hot. Remembered I had some dry graphite in the garage for the motorcycle cables.

Lifted the insert door about half way off it's hinge pins, gave each pin socket a puff of graphite, and whala squeek is all gone! Door also opens and closes like it's on bearings! So smooth, and noise is gone!

If you don't have graphite, I see no reason why taking a pencil and "coloring" the pins would not work either (pencils don't use lead anymore, they use graphite). Rub the tip of the pencil all over the pins put door back on, and you should be good to go. Or just pick up a little bottle of graphite powder at an auto parts store for a couple of bucks (if that).

Did I mention no more squeek? Did I mention smooth opening and closing? Hope this helps, KD

 

[Hinterlander]

Great Timing! My wife has been complaining about the Lopi insert door squeak for a couple days. I lubed it this morning, but used (VERY small amount) some Amsoil Synthetic hi-temp lube; just pushed the pins up with my fingers and gave them a small shot. It seemed to help, but I suspect it won't last very long. Real question: How did you shoehorn that Kodiak 1700 into the E39?

 

[kd460]

Based on the dimensions of the insert and the ZC firebox, it seemed like the kodiak was made for it. The biggest issue with me when searching for an insert was getting an insert that had the flu collar in the correct position to match the chimney opening of the heatilator. The Kodiak fit nicely, have not found another model that would work.

I was going with the regency until I looked at it and there was no way it would work based on flu locations. The other nice (really nice) feature of the Kodiak is the flu collar can be connected from inside the insert. So, the liner and insert collar were connected first, then the insert was slid in, and the collar tightens down with one bolt. Very slick set up.

Otherwise, I did have to remove the smoke trap at the top of the opening (piece of sheet metal) of the heatilator (I checked and this is allowed), and the little sheet metal track for the glass doors, but, again this was allowed "no permanent changes to firebox are allowed" and that was followed to the letter.

The unit is flush against the back of the firebox (with the fake brick insulating material in the firebox still in place), but I have about 3 inches on each side and maybe a little more on top. The front trim panels fit flush with the fireplace facing. Like I said, it looks like it was made for it. I think it fits even better than the 1200, but I don't remeber now. The install was assisted with my cousin who used to install them. It was actually a very easy install.

Of course I wanted the biggest unit I could fit in there. I enjoy all night burns! I am very happy with this unit and have posted a little blurb about it around a month ago if you care to search. Hope this helps, KD

 

[elkimmeg]

Good advice about grafite lubrication

 

[martel]

Good advice about grafite lubrication

I concur- I have been getting some squeaks after sitting for the summer. I did not think of the graphite- I feel better with this than the WD40 course I was thinking of taking.

 

[begreen]

Martel, I don't advise you taking either graphite or WD40 if you're squeaking. On the other hand, some Jim Beam and tylenol might help. Maybe lay off the cheese for awhile.

 

[BrotherBart]

Martel, I don't advise you taking either graphite or WD40 if you're squeaking. On the other hand, some Jim Beam and tylenol might help. Maybe lay off the cheese for awhile.

Coffee----->Monitor

 

[martel]

Martel, I don't advise you taking either graphite or WD40 if you're squeaking. On the other hand, some Jim Beam and tylenol might help. Maybe lay off the cheese for awhile.

Coffee----->Monitor

Very nice- I'll try both.

 

[DriftWood]

The first thing I did to my new stove was to pull door hinge pins on the doors and lubricate them. I just got out the <u>NEVER-SEEZ NUCLEAR GRADE PURE NICKEL SPECIAL</U> anti-seize lubricating compound, its good to 2400º F. I use NEVER-SEEZ NUCLEAR GRADE on hot stuff and regular <u>NEVER-SEEZ</u> on cold nut and bolt assemblies as road salt is a problem here..