stainless chimney length,damper and Summers Heat 13

[Pilgrimfarm]

I am new to the EPA stove burning. I have a new stainless chimney which is 16 feet from top of stove to the rain cap. I have a fairly flat roof and low ceilings. I currently have an old Virginian hot box. The chimney drafts fine it appears as I have no smoke in the house and I have a good draft up the chimney. What is the chimney rule? I am adding a new Summers Heat 13 stove tomorrow and wondering if i need to add a damper in the pipe when I am exchanging the stoves. I found this stove new at a great price and from my research I assume it is the same as an Englander nc13. The more I read the more complicated it seems to burn these EPA stoves. I hope I can get the thing to work. I have some really dry wood and a good draft so, crossing my fingers.
Sean

 

[gasavage]

Congratulations Pilgrim. You've bought a very good heater. If your chimney is 6" in diameter, & straight up, you'll be just fine with that height. You shouldn't need a damper unless you have an overdraft problem. Typical system (stove & chimney together) design height is 15' from the bottom of the stove to the top of the chimney. It's better being a little taller than being a little short. Provided you meet the 3, 2-10 rule & meet all required clearances you should be golden.

3, 2-10: 3 ft is the minimum height of the chimney where it exits roof, and it must be 2 ft above any portion of the roof within a 10 ft radius.

The stove is not complicated to use. Read the manual, and read through older theads here in the forum for proper operation. There are a few things you do need to follow.

1. burn dry wood.
2. burn dry wood.
3. read the manual.
4. be patient & ask for help
5. see 1&2

 

[shawneyboy]

Oh and in case you missed it BURN DRY WOOD !

 

[CJW88]

I just installed a Timber Ridge NC13, the same stove, and I love it. I don't find it difficult at all to get a good fire going. Right now it's 74 deg. in here burning red pine. I'm right at the 15' minimum height requirement. I did install a damper and have it closed a little bit. It was either install the damper or install a 6" extension to my flue pipe to reach the height I needed and so I'd rather have the damper in case I want to use it. Better than wanting it and not having it. The key to starting a fire in it is to leave the door cracked about a 1/4" until the fire really gets going and not adding too much wood at once.

 

[Pilgrimfarm]

Burn dry eh? First load of wood I got was a great load of oak, heavy and wet as dishwater. It will burn but not great. Second load I bought is 1.5 year seasoned oak. It is so lightweight. I threw a few pieces on the coals in the old Virginian and poof it lights right up. As for my chimney I am good with the 3, 2-10 requirements. The chimney draws well. I am headed out in the morning to pick up my heater assuming we do not get snow!
Sean

 

[begreen]

Burn the dry oak only this season. And pay close attention to the hearth requirements for this stove. They are stiff.

 

[Pilgrimfarm]

When you say hearth requirements are you talking about clearances? If so I am good. When I remodeled I had the new chimney placed out in the open away from the only wall 30 inches, no wall to the rear, and I have polished concrete floors and am not planning on putting anything under the heater. I paid 75.00 for what the guy told me was a face cord of seasoned oak, I am a skeptic, going to stack and measure that while I am out of work for Christmas to see how it measures up. It does seem dry as it really takes off when fire starting or placing on hot coals and is very light weight. IS ease of splitting any indication that wood is really dry?
Thanks,
Sean