Steaming Garn

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bigburner said:
Thanks guys- INVERTED cover that sounds like the ticket. I have a make -up water float/valve I plan on sticking in there also. I need to keep my tank 100% full so I don't get the water line rust thing going on, I may extend the manway up a little so the water level change stays in the manway.

Full or not, it is my understanding oxygen is still present in the open water system and I need chemicals to treat my water to prevent corrosion.
 
Hi George:


Yep, treated required and it should be about time for you to take a sample and send off. I just got the return on my first sample after first fill....and everything is rated "ok". I wish there was a bit more of a quantitative measurement and range for all categories, instead of just an "ok", but I guess I have to trust Precision Chem. It did take awhile to hear back about the sample, nearly a month, but all is well.

I've never noticed steam coming out of the overflow port, except for when I first fired up high and it drained in expansion. Odd. I wonder if are different locations has a seriously different humidity to cause this? I don't know what would change this "mechanically" from our setups...
 
bpirger said:
Hi George:


Yep, treated required and it should be about time for you to take a sample and send off. I just got the return on my first sample after first fill....and everything is rated "ok". I wish there was a bit more of a quantitative measurement and range for all categories, instead of just an "ok", but I guess I have to trust Precision Chem. It did take awhile to hear back about the sample, nearly a month, but all is well.

I've never noticed steam coming out of the overflow port, except for when I first fired up high and it drained in expansion. Odd. I wonder if are different locations has a seriously different humidity to cause this? I don't know what would change this "mechanically" from our setups...

Bruce, my sample is going in to Mike tomorrow. I hope mine comes back ok.

When I came up to the house the boiler room was 94*, 11%RH. You might check your manhole cover, initially I did not have steam out of the overflow but it was pumping into my insulation. This may not be true in your case but as Tom Caldwell said, "With steam coming from the port, usually means the manway cover has a good seal."
 
Thanks George. That makes a whole lot of sense to me...I'll have to check around very closely.

Had a great burn today...a single burn from 140 to 185, and this included all the mixing. Temp dropped down to 136 before it started to rise. The biggest difference I think was I had a 3" thick "slice" from about a 16" diameter tree cut in half. I placed that in front of the fuel, about 5" from the bottom air feed. Burned really clean and efficient. The key really seems to be figuring out exactly where to place the wood and to place this deflector. Perhaps different for every load, and this time it worked really well. I also had the firebox nearly filled....much over halfway. I've used various chunks of stuff, but this half slab just fit in the firebox ideally. I have to pick up some bricks and start playing. I still get more smoke then I want. We moved a cord into the Garn barn on Sunday while burning...and sad to say, it was somewhat smokey.... Garn barn isn't yet tight...smoke was from outside. :(ed

If I could get every burn to be like that...I'd be pleased. Heated some hot water as well at the time....not sure about floor heat....
 
I had a similar burn tonight also. 2 ½ hour burn on 148# hard maple, 150-203 degrees with a 63,000BTU/hr load. 931,300btu total gain or 6293btu/# of wood.

I am not using a brick but with 24†sticks I have a fair amount of room between the air inlet and the stack which I learned to stack as tight as possible. I should do a load with the brick in place and see if efficiency goes up.

I get steam, after about 10 minutes, I do see a very slight bit of smoke when the load is burned back about half way and the flue temperature is around 300 degrees, then no smoke after it is down to 280 or below.
 
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