Steel liner snout installation

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pixalu

New Member
Nov 29, 2013
6
NY
I recently had the flue serving my wood stove relined with a stainless steel liner. Looking back, I'm not sure about a couple of things having to do with the way the snout and stove pipe were installed:

1. The snout was inserted through an existing metal thimble. The thimble is a bit beat up (probably not a big deal), and the mortar around it is cracked. None of this was repaired before installing the liner.

2. The space between the snout and the thimble was packed with rock wool insulation, but it was not mortared and the "T" wasn't fastened in place. This means that the snout moves back and forth a little when installing or removing the stove pipe. (The snout is fastened tightly to the "T"; it's just that the liner is flexible, so the lower end of the whole assembly sways a bit when you pull on the stove pipe.)

3. The snout slopes down into the chimney. This would seem to violate the rule that horizontal sections of stove pipe should slope down into the stove. But I asked at another stove shop and was told that this is the way it should be done, so that any rain and so forth that makes it to the inner lip of the snout runs back into the line rather than out into the stove pipe.

4. The male end of the 90 degree stovepipe was inserted into the snout, instead of crimping the end of the snout and inserting it into the female end of the stovepipe. (Of course, if you do that, perhaps it makes sense to slope the snout back into the chimney.)

Comments?

Thanks,
pixalu
 
Mortar should be in good order. First time I have heard of #3. With a properly sealed top cap, storm collar and rain cap the odds of this should be minimal. I would prefer it to be at least level. For #4 did they crimp both ends of the elbow so that following crimps point toward the stove? If not, that will be a mess shortly.
 
The rest of the crimps do point towards the stove.

What type of mortar is best to use? I gather one wants furnace or refractory cement between snout and thimble, but what about between thimble and brick? No idea how hard furnace or refractory cement gets, but in this case I am dealing with old bricks, so I don't want something so hard that it causes spalling down the line.
 
Not sure if there is a special mortar or not. Maybe post a picture of the whole shebang so that we see what you are seeing.
 
We use chamber tech or a similar product in that situation.
 
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