Steep roof,,, how high??

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Bugboy

New Member
Mar 5, 2007
102
north-central Kansas
I have a very steep roof above the location where I need to put my wood stove. How high do I need to go with the new Class A chimney?

I know that code says 3 foot above the roof and 2 foot above any part of the building within 10 feet.

I haven't measured the pitch but it appears to be about a 24/12 or so. The chimney would need to penetrate the roofline at the lower part. If I have to be 2 foot higher that any part of the roof within 10 feet my calculations that would mean a 22' chimney which would be out of the question for me.
 

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Looks more like somewhere between a 10/12 and 12/12/ pitch. 22' of chimney for the entire run is not bad.
Hard to telll by photos, but I'd say your gonna need about 9 foot or so above the roof line.
 
If it is 12/12 (looks to be as the peak looks like a right angle) then you will need 10 feet to be even with a point 10 feet away, plus 2 feet additional, which gives you 12 feet total (assuming you are trying to install it on the steeper part of the roof). Go out and measure the pitch and we will give you the correct number (just hold a level straight out from a spot on the roof and see how many inches above the roof it is one foot out). It should be easy as your roof is almost at ground level.
 
You guys have good eyes. I measured it at a 10/12 this morning (freaking cold though 16 deg with a 22-33 mph wind, wind chill 8deg).

10/12 = 10.3' chimney above the roofline,,, that sounds workable. I'm wondering if I can get by with 9'. This will be a roof supported ceiling box. Right now I'm thinking with a 3 foot support box and chimney and 9' above that would give me a total of 12' of chimney pipe to buy. Then there would be 5' - 6' of DVL from the stove to the support box. Total height from stove to cap would be 17-18'. I'm going to go with all new Simpson stuff.

I'll just have to figure out how to do maintenance on the cap and chimney. Thinking either home-made ladder/work platform (moved in and out of place the tractor with front end loader) or maybe work out of the loader bucket.
 
bugboy, is this house earthbermed in the back? Just curious.
 
Draft wise Id think youd be fine with 9' but if the inspector climbes up there to measure the 10/2/3 foot rule you may not pass. If your inspectors are like ours they aint goin on that steep a roof they just look at it from the ground and take your word for it My roof is 8:12 2 story and metal and he just glanced up at it. I was just under a foot short. Whith that much chimney sticking up youll also need a roof support bracket
 
BeGreen,
Yes it is earthbermed on 3 sides with the southern exposure dominated by a 50' long "sunporch". Vaulted ceiling in livingroom, 4 beds, 2 bath, 2 car attached. About 2800 sq.ft.

nshif,
I think I'm going to start with 9' and see how it works (I can always throw another piece on top). I don't think I'll have a problem with inspections as I'm way out in the country and don't plan on getting a permit or anything. Insurance man said a DIY install would be fine as long as I follow mfg instructions. Insurance man is 45 miles away.
 
You can't see the third satellite dish in the photo. I'm think of getting a few more so people think I'm running some type of "patriot act" center. That should keep the neighbors acting civil towards me.
 
Cool, how has this worked out for you? I've been fascinated by earth-bermed houses but have never seen a setup with the high roof. Most are low roofed, often with earth on the roof too. Is the house set up for solar gain? How is it in the summer?
 
Bugboy said:
You guys have good eyes. I measured it at a 10/12 this morning (freaking cold though 16 deg with a 22-33 mph wind, wind chill 8deg).

10/12 = 10.3' chimney above the roofline,,, that sounds workable. I'm wondering if I can get by with 9'. This will be a roof supported ceiling box. Right now I'm thinking with a 3 foot support box and chimney and 9' above that would give me a total of 12' of chimney pipe to buy. Then there would be 5' - 6' of DVL from the stove to the support box. Total height from stove to cap would be 17-18'. I'm going to go with all new Simpson stuff.

I'll just have to figure out how to do maintenance on the cap and chimney. Thinking either home-made ladder/work platform (moved in and out of place the tractor with front end loader) or maybe work out of the loader bucket.

Make a nice solid platform for your loader bucket, then just set a ladder up to the platform.
Simpson daoes make 4' pipe sections, you could go any combination. 3-3'ers, 2-4'ers & a 2'. If you need input, call Simpson, I did when seting up my liner install. The guy was very helpful and told me exactly what part #'s I needed.

I better know my roof pitches, spent enough years on em. ;)
 
BeGreen,
I really like the earth bermed house. We've only been in it 3 years, but it's great. Really quiet and seems to hold temperature pretty well. The southern exposures overhang apparently was designed correctly. I the winter we get a tremendous amount of solar gain. The "sunporch" has 13 windows and no HVAC vents. Yesterday the outside temp was around 15 deg. but the sunporch was up to 80 deg. with the interior of the house at 66 deg.

In the summer the overhang is long enough and the sun is high enough that you don't get direct sun rays in the porch.

The only real draw-back is the lack of windows. The 3 bedrooms on the north side each have a skylight which helps with lighting and the living room has a bank of windows at the top of the vaulted ceiling.

There are some "earth tubes" buried in the yard for additional heat and cooling but the PO didn't do anything with them and I haven't experimented with them yet. I don't think they would do much there just 4" pvc buried in a long loop. There is no liquid, pumps or fans or anything (just air-to-air transfer). I'll probably mess with them one of these days by putting a fan or two on them and seeing if they make any difference.
 
Bugboy said:
BeGreen,

I think I'm going to start with 9' and see how it works (I can always throw another piece on top). I don't think I'll have a problem with inspections as I'm way out in the country and don't plan on getting a permit or anything. Insurance man said a DIY install would be fine as long as I follow mfg instructions. Insurance man is 45 miles away.

OK So you are planning to be self insured when you place a claim on your fire insurance and they get out the measuring tape on your stack and check with your township office for a wood heat appliance installation inspection.

You are giving your insurance company every possible way to deny a fire claim.

Do your install to code,follow the insulation instructions for all all instructions stove, vent and hearth, pull a permit and call the building inspector as to what he wants. Do you really want be left out in the cold if the agent dose drive 45 miles to see what happened should you have a fire.

Bugboy said:
Insurance man said a DIY install would be fine as long as I follow mfg instructions. Insurance man is 45 miles away.

What the Insurance man wants you to follow is written in each stoves manual


" PLEASE READ THIS ENTIRE OWNER’S MANUAL BEFORE YOU INSTALL AND USE
YOUR --------- WOOD STOVE.

CONTACT LOCAL AUTHORITIES HAVING JURISDICTION (BUILDING DEPARTMENT or FIRE
ABOUT PERMITS REQUIRED, RESTRICTIONS AND INSTALLATION INSPECTION
IN YOUR AREA.
CONTACT LOCAL AUTHORITIES HAVING JURISDICTION (BUILDING DEPARTMENT or FIRE
OFFICIALS


To reduce the risk of fire, follow the installation
instructions. Failure to follow these instructions may result in property damage, bodily injury, or
even death.

SAVE THESE INSTRUCTIONS FOR FUTURE REFERENCE!"

"SAFETY NOTICE:
A HOUSE FIRE MAY RESULT IF THIS
STOVE IS NOT INSTALLED PROPERLY.
FOR YOUR SAFETY, CAREFULLY
FOLLOW THE INSTALLATION
DIRECTIONS. CONTACT LOCAL
BUILDING OR FIRE OFFICIALS ABOUT
RESTRICTIONS AND INSTALLATION
INSPECTION IN YOUR AREA."

http://www.hearthstonestoves.com/documents/Heritage8021Manual.pdf
 
Driftwood,
I guess I wrote it wrong. After reading your post I checked with everyone again.

Since I am out in the country there are no permits required and no inspector available.

Insurance man said install it and then let them know and that there will be a form to fill out afterwards.
 
I guess this design doesn't require it,,,, "weren't none here when I bought the place so I ain't a gonna worry bout it none".
 
Leelli said:
Are egress windows not required where you are? Here in SC KS we cannot have a bedroom below grade without one (actual size of window is specified along with a ladder).

I think that's a national building code? I thought you always have to have an emergency escape router out of a bedroom through a window.
 
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