Stihl 028 Super won't stop

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CONDA71

Member
Apr 25, 2014
11
New Brunswick, Canada
My saw starts and runs great but last night when I went to shut it off it would not. I flicked the switch up and the saw kept running.

Has anyone had this happen?
I'll investigate this weekend don't know whether it's a bad switch or loose connection.
 
You're looking in right direction...1. Switch not closing 2. Wire loose or broken. My recently bought parts saw - 011 AVT has a weird contact (to me, anyway). there is a pin laying in plastic that the switch on the housing makes contact with. Switch is missing, so I'm guessing. Seems way over engineered to me - the switch just needs a wire to coil and a wire to ground - then close the contact.
 
It could also have been "dieseling". How hot was it.... How hard were you running it and is it running rich or lean. Spark plugbseated properly. Any bad gaskets or seals on the motor?
 
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I will look at it a little closer this weekend. I put new cylinder rings in it a month or so. I definitely was not pushing the saw hard.
 
Switch problems that behave this way are common and simple to diagnose, usually simple to fix. I wouldn't worry.
 
Check the kill wire. One a used 028 that came my way it was routed strangely, and the wire had rubbed through most of the insulation from the flex in the AV mounts.
 
I've had this happen twice with my 028, actually just a week or two ago actually. In both instance for me, it was the ground for the switch that had broke. 2 minutes and a crimp-on spade and it was repaired.

I have a picture or two, but not sure how to attach.......
 
I think I figured it out...........


DSC00131.JPG DSC00132.JPG
 
Wow. Looks like a cheapo crimp-on connector.

I'd use a ring connector instead of a fork. I'd also consider using the waterproof style that will melt its insulation onto the wire (instead of crimping), forming a very secure connection.

FYI, the IPL for that saw has a ring connector on that ground wire. PM me if you need a copy of the IPL.
 
I may have used a ring for all I can remember. Not really worried about it too much though, it's only a ground, and the last one lasted for the 15 years or so that I've had the saw. I was just trying to show how easy of a fix it could be. I'll see if I have enough posts to PM.......
 
I may have used a ring for all I can remember. Not really worried about it too much though, it's only a ground, and the last one lasted for the 15 years or so that I've had the saw. I was just trying to show how easy of a fix it could be. I'll see if I have enough posts to PM.......

D'oh! I saw your post and thought you were the OP showing a picture of why the saw was malfunctioning. Sorry about that.

028 IPL sent to you.
 
D'oh! I saw your post and thought you were the OP showing a picture of why the saw was malfunctioning. Sorry about that.

028 IPL sent to you.

I thought the same thing too.....
 
I also had a saw where the kill switch quit working; I just put the choke on full to kill it and never got around to fixing the switch.
 
D'oh! I saw your post and thought you were the OP showing a picture of why the saw was malfunctioning. Sorry about that.

028 IPL sent to you.

Thanks much! I'm sure that will come in handy down the road!

Also, I can see now how I confused you folks with my second post. Sorry about that........
 
I have an 028 AV woodboss. My saw had this same problem a few years back. There is a spring that closes the circuit when you push your switch all the way up (stop position). That spring wasn't making good contact with the switch. I carefully bent mine (bend and then check with the continuity meter). When you get nice consistent continuity between the switch and the ground screw shown in Joes169's pics, it is good to go. Your problem may be simpler (like Joes).

Mine was intermittent (sometimes it would cut off, sometimes it wouldn't). This solved my problem.
 
Dolmar 7900 ( 10 yrs old at time) exhibited this type of problem - cylinder base gasket was leaking
 
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