Stihl 066 Rebuild

[seeyal8r]

Picked up a used 066 off CL. The saw ran great for the first 5 tanks or so of fuel. Then I felt like it didn't have enough low end torque and ultimately found that the compression was down from the OEM 150psi to around 95 psi.

Saw still runs and starts and has plenty of power to keep cutting trees... but like anything I'd like it to be like new again.... I was at a local saw shop and they quoted $550 - $650 for parts/labor for OEM rebuild. New rings, hone, new gaskets etc.

Does anybody have any experience with this type of rebuild or know what a good cost is?
Thanks,

 

[Jon1270]

I only have a little experience with this, but rings and gaskets are cheap. You could pick up a set of Caber rings and a cylinder base gasket for a little over $20 on eBay. Maybe a few bucks more for the torx driver you'd need to remove the cylinder. If the cylinder is scored then new rings won't fix it, but if it's just worn rings then you can make a significant improvement yourself easily, for very little money.

 

[Jon1270]

I should add that the fact that the saw ran well at first and then suddenly went downhill worries me a bit. One possible explanation is that the previous owner had problems due to an air leak, did minimal repairs to the top end just to get it running again, then sold it to you without tracking down or fixing the original source of the problems. If it's been running lean due to an air leak then you might have already damaged more than just the rings. I'd stop using it until you have a clearer idea of what the problem is.

 

[salecker]

Hi
Do you work on your own stuff?
The repair is fairly simple,but before you take it apart you have to find the cause.If you aren't up to the repair there are a couple of other options for you.Like sending it to a private repair shop with a good reputation.
Or you could sell me the saw,JK,but if you want to sell let me know.
If you want to do the repair,myself and a few others can walk you through it.
Again do the diagnostic before removing the cylinder.Then take the muffler off and have a look at the piston,that should have been done before you bought the saw too.You will probably see scoring on the piston.
Seeing it still runs you may getaway with just a piston and rings,plus whatever to fix the problem that caused the scoring.
If you want to repair yourself let us know and we can walk you trough it.You will need to get a vacuum/pressure tester.This is the first step before removing the cylinder from the saw.
Thomas

 

[mtarbert]

Just did a re-build on an 044. Spent less than 200 dollars ....bought new cylinder and piston from Baileys I could not be happier with the results

 

[kjahnz]

a leak down test is what you need to get done. the results of that will tell you if you need to replace the crank seals and/or split the case and install a new crank case gasket. in your case I will guess (worst case). that repair shop quoted a top end rebuild (of sorts) why they quoted only that is the question. If your leak down test is O.K. you have options that can be very affordable. OEM may not be one of them. after market is. My kit included a cylinder, exhaust and base gasket, piston, rings, wrist pin, wrist pin bearing(always needed), clips and a dual port muffler. my after market big bore cylinder had casting flaws that were cleaned up(easily) transfer ports were left alone. result= 98.5cc chainsaw. cost $140.00 my opinion is simple, sell me that junker and you worries are gone. want my paypal info?