I heard there was less ethanol in premium . How true that is, I don't really know. I always ran the highest octane I could get, as this makes the fuel more stabil, causing a more even and slower burn rate, which will help with preiginition. The lower the octane, the less stable or faster the fuel burns. So if your fuel burns to quick, before the piston gets to top dead center, you are trying to force the piston back down , the opposite way it's turning, thus , this causes alot of wear on your lower end bearings as well as the piston, etc. If you get no pinging , you should be fine. I learned this thru going to Harley Davidson school, when I worked as a Harley Tech for a local dealer years ago. By the way, that seafoam will speak for itself. You'll see. Your stuff will always start and run fine . You'll never not use it, once you see for yourself. I had stuff sit with that in, that I thought would never start, and started. By the way, Seafoam will stabilize gas for up to 2 years.
STIHL CHAIN SAWS ARE JUNK!!!
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David,
if you can't get your saws running well soon, my recommendation would be to take them to your Stihl dealer and have them tune your saws up for you. If my saws are ever running rough and I can't get it right - I take them in and after a service and/or tune, they always run AWESOME! I find that its often cheaper in the long run just to have the dealer tune my saw up than for me to monkey around with it for a while throwing money at problems blindly.
I have two Stihl saws - a 028 from the early 80s and an 08s from the mid 60's and both run great and start right up every time.
if you can't get your saws running well soon, my recommendation would be to take them to your Stihl dealer and have them tune your saws up for you. If my saws are ever running rough and I can't get it right - I take them in and after a service and/or tune, they always run AWESOME! I find that its often cheaper in the long run just to have the dealer tune my saw up than for me to monkey around with it for a while throwing money at problems blindly.
I have two Stihl saws - a 028 from the early 80s and an 08s from the mid 60's and both run great and start right up every time.
jharkin
Minister of Fire
Unless the STIHL manual calls for it there is no reason to run super unleaded. The only reason it would call for it is if the engine is very high compression and the high octane is needed to prevent knocking. Otherwise just use regular. Hi test will actually give less power in an engine designed for regular since the BTU content of the gas goes down as octane goes up.
The only other possible difference is that some brands of gas put more detergents in high test. Shouldn't be much of an issue for small engines, especially when you add stabilizer like Stabil or Seafoam (guess I should checkout seafoam, I only ever used stabil). And it doesn't hurt to put a little bit of stabilizer in every can of gas for the small stuff - that way you don't have to wonder "Is the gas too old"
BTW whenever I run into small engine trouble I usually check in order...
- Try fresh gas
- Check air filter
- Check plug
- If you still have problems, get a walbro carb kit, replace the pump and metering diaphragms and clean it out good with carb cleaner. Then retune the needles.
99% of the time those steps will fix the problem.
The only other possible difference is that some brands of gas put more detergents in high test. Shouldn't be much of an issue for small engines, especially when you add stabilizer like Stabil or Seafoam (guess I should checkout seafoam, I only ever used stabil). And it doesn't hurt to put a little bit of stabilizer in every can of gas for the small stuff - that way you don't have to wonder "Is the gas too old"
BTW whenever I run into small engine trouble I usually check in order...
- Try fresh gas
- Check air filter
- Check plug
- If you still have problems, get a walbro carb kit, replace the pump and metering diaphragms and clean it out good with carb cleaner. Then retune the needles.
99% of the time those steps will fix the problem.
smokinj
Minister of Fire
jharkin said:
These are older saws Fuel Filter would be my first choice, but I would also pull the carbs and clean them why I am at it!
smokinj
Minister of Fire
Most of the problems I've had with saws --Stihl or Husky--have been the owner's doing.
It sounds David that you don't do any pre-flight checks on your saws. Filters, plug, fuel quality and mix,
carb settings and debris. Re-think your starting method: listen for the choke "pop", then shut down the choke for the next pull.
Don't blame the tool...yet. ...old dogs....new tricks.
Since the saws have never been gone over by a professional dealer (think 100 hour engine check), why not give one of the beasts
a treat ?
My 009 is one little barker, tempramental and a PITA to break down and repair, but reliable up a tree...always. The 044, 028, 260 have been owner abused, yet with some care, work well in any weather.
You're not NOT coming down for breakfast as yet at 67. How about taking a small engine class ?....I did awhile ago. Learned to diagnose, do a carb rebuild,
and the steps to solving the frustrating simple small 2 and 4 cycle engine problems. Got an old Yamaha 4HP started after 3 years storage and frustration.
It sounds David that you don't do any pre-flight checks on your saws. Filters, plug, fuel quality and mix,
carb settings and debris. Re-think your starting method: listen for the choke "pop", then shut down the choke for the next pull.
Don't blame the tool...yet. ...old dogs....new tricks.
Since the saws have never been gone over by a professional dealer (think 100 hour engine check), why not give one of the beasts
a treat ?
My 009 is one little barker, tempramental and a PITA to break down and repair, but reliable up a tree...always. The 044, 028, 260 have been owner abused, yet with some care, work well in any weather.
You're not NOT coming down for breakfast as yet at 67. How about taking a small engine class ?....I did awhile ago. Learned to diagnose, do a carb rebuild,
and the steps to solving the frustrating simple small 2 and 4 cycle engine problems. Got an old Yamaha 4HP started after 3 years storage and frustration.
Yeah that "pull a couple of times till it pops and close the choke" is the key with any brand of chainsaw I have ever started.
That and using the compression relief of the big boys.
That and using the compression relief of the big boys.
chuckn
New Member
Just bought a new 362 Pro yesterday and the very experienced Stihl mechanic there said he suggests running mid grade gas in all the saws. I told him I used Seafoam as well and he said that actually works as well if not better than buying midgrade. In other words - I can get away with 87 octane with the Seafoam fine. Its a matter of negating the ethanol over time I guess....Cant wait to lay this saw into some oak and Locust this weekend!
smokinj
Minister of Fire
highlander said:
I have had 2 brand new saws screwed up by stihl mechanics one was an 880 (over 500.00 in damage) the other a 260 (100.00 in damage). Take what they tell you in the back room with a grain of salt!
Highlander, you'll love that saw. I have the earler Pro 360 version, running a 20 inch bar. You'll really appreciate the power to weight ratio. Mines going on 9 years old, no problems at all and over 100 cords on it.
Danno77
Minister of Fire
FWIW, I feel your pain with hating Stihl saws. I hated mine a year or so ago, then i got it running like it should. I love Stihl again. Can't really blame the brand for a saw that isn't running right UNLESS it doesn't run right because of a design flaw. Mine was just in need of some work (first time it had ever been in the shop).
A few weeks ago I hated Jeeps, then I fixed a couple of things on it and remembered why I love my Jeep even though it has 135,000 miles on it.
Get them running right, then tell me what you think about Stihl saws. Or do what I did, get a stupid 12" electric saw and cut a cord or so of wood with it, then get the Stihl running right and cuss yourself for being so dumb - (not that you are dumb, but I was).
A few weeks ago I hated Jeeps, then I fixed a couple of things on it and remembered why I love my Jeep even though it has 135,000 miles on it.
Get them running right, then tell me what you think about Stihl saws. Or do what I did, get a stupid 12" electric saw and cut a cord or so of wood with it, then get the Stihl running right and cuss yourself for being so dumb - (not that you are dumb, but I was).
jimosufan
Member
new to all this.Had the homelite 18 for 159 at HD..junk period.....went for the Echo CS-370 for 269. 16" cut.......what a dream in comparison to the homelite......for 200 more could only imagine how a Stihl saw would be...probaly heaven
chuckn
New Member
xclimber said:
Sweet! Really looking forward to sawing with it Saturday.....got some real good piles of firewood logs to process....lots of oak and some 18 inch locust.....need to put away about 8 more cords for next year.....
chuckn
New Member
I have had 2 brand new saws screwed up by stihl mechanics one was an 880 (over 500.00 in damage) the other a 260 (100.00 in damage). Take what they tell you in the back room with a grain of salt![/quote]
Well this guy I trust.....he rebuilt my 260Pro after I ran over it with a 5,000 pound tractor (bad day at the office).....he's pretty good.
Well this guy I trust.....he rebuilt my 260Pro after I ran over it with a 5,000 pound tractor (bad day at the office).....he's pretty good.
smokinj
Minister of Fire
highlander said:
Well this guy I trust.....he rebuilt my 260Pro after I ran over it with a 5,000 pound tractor (bad day at the office).....he's pretty good.[/quote]
I know I trust them to, its there money they know me and if its not right its comimg back!
JustWood
Minister of Fire
woodsmaster
Minister of Fire
only problem I ever had with a steel carb is the diaphram going bad and that was at around 10 years old.
Gentlemen, Today I carried my .009 and .034 to the local Stihl Hospital. Local dealer has a guy that is sharp on the Stihl saws. He took one look at the .009 and listened to it run. He said the carb adjustments were wrong. He set them with the saw not running and than I tried it. Runs like a new saw and was super easy to start. I about fell over. The .034 was flooding out and I had to leave it. He says it needs a carb kit. Sounds as if he might be able to fix my saw problems. Perhaps soon I'll go to loving Stihl again. David
chuckn
New Member
Goor deal David! Put a little seafoam in those carbs from now on and they will stay real shiny....
Glad you're in business again David. When you find a quality saw mechanic, feed the beast and treat him well. Like your aircraft mechanic.
BUTT: due diligence on the saws. Do the "pre flight" every time, including starting WITH the chain brake set.
Why ?
1. Gives you the opportunity to check the brake operation.
2. No problem with the saw on WOT getting out of control.
3. It's S.O.P. for C.L.P. and G.O.L. protocols for safety.
Then with the chain brake engaged, you can start with the foot on the ground method, the famous hold-the-saw-in-your-crotch technique ( preferred by us pros 8.5 to 1 ! ), or the
infamous "drop and pull" macho start without any worry about high torque biting you.
Now that we've got you straightened out, how you set for PPE ?
BUTT: due diligence on the saws. Do the "pre flight" every time, including starting WITH the chain brake set.
Why ?
1. Gives you the opportunity to check the brake operation.
2. No problem with the saw on WOT getting out of control.
3. It's S.O.P. for C.L.P. and G.O.L. protocols for safety.
Then with the chain brake engaged, you can start with the foot on the ground method, the famous hold-the-saw-in-your-crotch technique ( preferred by us pros 8.5 to 1 ! ), or the
infamous "drop and pull" macho start without any worry about high torque biting you.
Now that we've got you straightened out, how you set for PPE ?
Adios Pantalones
Minister of Fire
Carb adjustments are pretty standard stuff for preventative maintenance, and it's easy to let it slip leading to frustrations. I had a loose plug causing stalling for quite a while, fixed it and my 260 is rock solid again.
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