Still doubts about wood - creosote?

[derbydude]

I have been researching and flip flopping between wood or pellet insert. I finally decided on wood because of cost and no sensitive electronics which can breakdown. Well,,,I thought I did.
See, I would like long burn times since I'm away all day and wife or parents can't deal with it. I was told most stoves can do 6hrs medium heat which I'm ok with. I still have the oil central heat and it can kick in until I come back home in 10hrs - and will also keep that system in running condition.
Then... I find people saying leaving wood burning as embers long after the fire has died is not a good idea - it will build up creosote etc.
So I want to get it cleared up. Is it ok to load up a wood insert and leave it burning - then regardless of how long it puts out heat, I don't touch it for 10hrs. Then I load up again - same cycle.
Any downside to this?

 

[Bigg_Redd]

It's pretty simple - the more smoke you see, the more soot is building up in your chimney*. Buy the time a fire is down to coals and embers there is very little or no smoke to be seen coming out of the chimney.


*this is axiomatic

 

[bmblank]

In fact, you are better off waiting until you have embers to load up the next load. Opening the door and loading before it burns down often results in smoke and easier creosote formation.

 

[branchburner]

I find people saying leaving wood burning as embers long after the fire has died is not a good idea - it will build up creosote etc.
So I want to get it cleared up. Is it ok to load up a wood insert and leave it burning - then regardless of how long it puts out heat, I don't touch it for 10hrs. Then I load up again - same cycle.
Any downside to this?

No downside. Here are the three factors that cause creosote buildup with a full load left to burn a full cycle:
1) Lousy wood -- excess moisture in improperly seasoned (>20% MC) wood inhibits secondary combustion
2) Lousy stove -- a pre-EPA "airtight" stove can be shut down and air-starved, causing a smoldering burn and creosote
3) Lousy operator -- some stoves can have the primary air shut down too far/too fast, stalling the secondary combustion

If you are burning good, dry wood in a properly-vented modern EPA stove using good technique (yes, there can be a learning curve) then you should have minimal creosote buildup, regardless of whether you burn 24/7 or only occasionally. So your first order of business is to secure a source of well-seasoned wood, and there are a few ongoing forum threads regarding this that may help you in that regard.

You will get longer burn times in a stove with a larger firebox and/or catalytic burn technology. Happy hunting!

 

[Phoenix Hatchling]

I think good wood is key. Sourcing it is a different story as most seasoned wood actually is not. I bought wood last year which was black locust that was dead and down for 26 years! They cut and split it the day they delivered it to me and it was still not ready, so it is being used this year. Can't wait as it is ready to burn this year hot as coal! I had trees taken a few days ago, and some of the wood I split will be ready next year, while the shagbark hickory will sit and wait 2-3. Makes all the difference burning quality dry wood, and can make your experience with burning either very enjoyable, or frustratingly horrible with you questioning if you made the right choice when burning wet.

 

[ddahlgren]

When you are down to embers any moisture or tars in the wood are long gone. Set the stove for a clean burn as that is better than trying to get one more hour and slow and smoky.

 

[begreen]

Modern EPA stoves run correctly on dry wood usually produce very little creosote. Burning dry wood properly they are clean burners. There are some exceptions, but usually this is due to poor operation or a poor flue system. A long single wall pipe feeding into an uninsulated outdoor chimney will get creosote accumulation as the wood gases drop below 250F and start condensing on the chimney interior.

Tell us about the house sq. ftg., style, insulation and floorplan. Where will the stove be located? Will the chimney be interior or exterior? Do you have a good source of fully seasoned wood?

 

[derbydude]

Modern EPA stoves run correctly on dry wood usually produce very little creosote. Burning dry wood properly they are clean burners. There are some exceptions, but usually this is due to poor operation or a poor flue system. A long single wall pipe feeding into an uninsulated outdoor chimney will get creosote accumulation as the wood gases drop below 250F and start condensing on the chimney interior.

Tell us about the house sq. ftg., style, insulation and floorplan. Where will the stove be located? Will the chimney be interior or exterior? Do you have a good source of fully seasoned wood?

Its a 2000sft single story ranch - the fireplace is located in living room at one end.. House is well insulated - I paid to get walls and attic insulated. Because of layout, the heat has to travel around and through a narrow corrdior to reach bedrooms at the other end.
Seasoned wood? probably not - this is my first time.

 

[derbydude]

I found an answer in a Blaze King manual - partly - here it is FYI

CREOSOTE FORMATION
When wood is burned slowly, it produces tar and other organic vapors which combine with expelled moisture to form
creosote. If not burned by the catalyst, the creosote vapors condense in the flue of a slow-burning fire. As a result,
creosote residue accumulates on the flue lining. When ignited, this creosote makes an extremely hot fire. When in good
condition and operated properly, your Blaze King catalyst-equipped stove is clean-burning. If significant creosote buildup
occurs, reexamine your fire building and burning procedures. Most instances of creosote buildup in the chimneys of
catalytic woodstoves are due to operator error. If you still have questions consult your dealer or contact the Customer
Service department at Blaze King

 

[begreen]

With a ranch there are a couple things to deal with. The first as you mention is getting heat down the hallway to the bedrooms. The second in some cases is a short chimney. With an exterior chimney you will definitely want an insulated liner if you go for wood. Dry wood is going to be important. I think there are some wood sellers north of you that guarantee seasoned wood. Not sure if they deliver as far south as Stamford. Start calling around and get it now if you are going for wood.

For more even heat in the house put a table or box fan at the far end of the hallway, placed on the floor, pointing toward the woodstove. Run it on low speed. It will blow the cooler air down low, toward the woodstove. The denser cool air will be replaced with lighter warm air from the stove room. Running this way you should notice at least a 5F increase in the hallway temp after about 30 minutes running.