still undecided about OAK

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dhungy

Feeling the Heat
Jan 7, 2010
304
Fingerlakes
My Avalon was installed without an OAK. The dealer said "you don't live in a trailer so you don't need one" I have read everything on here and an't decided if I should just go ahead and put one in myself. Has anyone added on after not having one? is there any difference?

Thanks,
 
Upsides:
You will be drawing in outside air INSTEAD of pulling cold air through your house.

Downsides:
You will be putting a extra hole in your wall
The duct may condensate (Sweat / Drip water)
At extreme temperatures it may be harder on the equipment

I would not worry about how the temperature affects yours combustion, the main concern to know if a OAK is necesary is the owners manual, and verifying with a manometer that you are getting proper draft. Then if your fire is burning correctly with all your windows / doors closed, you probably don't need a OAK. BUT you will be pulling all the cold air from outside, inside, to feed provide air for the stove.

That last sentence is the primary reason I got a OAK, but I have -40 degree weather for a 2 month stretch here. For most people in the 10-20 degree climates, it seems okay to not get a OAK. Worst case either way is you put it in later, or get rid of it after. Either way, no big deal.
 
we have an oak kit on ours that uses the outside of the exhaust pipe for fresh air so only 1 hole in the side of the house.
 
I burned my EF-2 for 2 years before I installed the OAK.
Before OAK I could feel a cold draft pulled toward the stove at floor level.
Was enough to chill my toes. !!!

After OAK no draft.

Didn't even think about it when I installed my M55.
Had the 3" OAK hole cut in the side wall before the stove was on the hearth.

No brainer for me.

Here was my install.
https://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/forums/viewthread/90023/


---Nailer---
 
Another advantage of the oak is that when its time to clean the stove in real cold weather you can shut the stove down and when it shuts off ,simulate a power failure by unplugging it and plugging it back in and the cold air coming in from outside will cool the stove off enough to clean it. It usually takes me two cycles of purge to get it cool enough to clean.Can be finished in less than an hour.
 
I went without and with..... As has a bunch of us. OAK is the way to go.

I am OAK'ing my Woodstove before this Season. I went without one on it last yr... Just to see the difference. The basement isn't super tight. But I know its only gonna help...

Every cu foot of air your stove uses (90% of stoves have a 80-90 Cu ft per min Combustion blower, when on High) that is a COLD Cubic Foot that you pull in through every crack, leak, or drafty place in your home. Add that you paid and heated the air that your stove just exhausted. :(

Or you can burn outside air and keep all your warm air in your home?
 
Question about an OAK on a Quad CB1200. The air intake for the OAK is not a sealled system, appears that I will still be drawing inside air for combustion. Does an OAK really make that much difference with this unit?
 
Question about an OAK on a Quad CB1200. The air intake for the OAK is not a sealled system, appears that I will still be drawing inside air for combustion. Does an OAK really make that much difference with this unit?

Yep... Air takes the path of least resistance.

I sealed my CB 1200 as best as I could. All holes in the bottom for shipping, etc, and also the channel/plenum going up.the middle of the stove to the ignitor area.

My 2 pennies
 
DD..what did you use to seal the openings? Does the bottom of the case get hot enough to be overly concerned? I wouldn't use anything combustible but wondering about specific materials.
TIA
 
I used high temp silicone..... On the holes in the bottom and the gaps in the channel going up the inside/middle.
 
Thanks..sounds like I gotta new project.
 
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