Stone veneer hearth install on painted block wall...need advice

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jreed

Member
Hearth Supporter
Jan 13, 2010
69
MD
just remodeled my basement and the last thing I need to do is install my hearth behind my wood stove. I understand I need to deal with the painted block in some way since you can't install directly on a painted surface. What is the best method for installing the stone veneer over a painted surface? Would a backer board like hardibacker with tapcons work?
 

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cheapest / strongest way would be to drill in metal mesh then make a scratch coat over it, the metal will give you strength.
 
Thanks for the info...that seems to be what everyone Ive talked to says.

Next question....can anyone recommend a stone veneer that can be installed without mortar. Ive seen some that screw in instead which might be a little better for my application.
 
I could recommend backer board and mortar. I went with that approach 3 years ago with no problems. The veneer I used was from Home Depot. We're very happy with the end result.
 
Metal lath over exiting painted block. You can scratch coat & let dry then mud the stones over the scratch, or trowel on 1/2" to 3/4" wet mud on over the lath, butter then mud on back of the stones and set into the wet mud over the lath. I did both ways, but prefer the second option myself. Either way don't forget to shimmy the stones a bit to set them into the mortar. If you go dry stack ledgestone stones, you won't have to work mortar between the stones to finish.
 
Some photos for reference.
I had to use a Hilti gun on the large walls, as they are superior walls, and very hard. Over the block I used the Hilti washer nails and hand nailed them into the mortar joints. If you try to get them all in the block, there is a very good chance of breaking or cracking the block.

I used Owens Corning Cultured Stone
If you keep your eyes out on Craigslist, you may find a few folks looking to sell surplus left over from a job or home improvement. There are also some vendors selling stone veneer at lower pricing on Craigslist around here.

I am going to be covering a brick wall where my insert sits. I'll probably use the leftovers I have, with gathered leftovers from Craigslist finds or a local vendor.

I've never heard or screw in stone veneer, except for poly plastic painted panels made to look like stone, but are really crap, and not something you want to put near a stove.

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Thanks all for the opinions! Hogwildz, your install looks great!

I found a product called clipstone that looks nice and should work well. It requires a sheet of plywood to be mounted and then the stones have clips that screw to the plywood. My pipe is double wall so Id have to keep 2" clearance on the plywood. The stone requires no mortar which will work well and save me from having to drag mortar in my finished basement.
 
6" minimum for double wall dvl black pipe, plus any additional clearances from the stove itself
 
Yes, double-wall chimney pipe has a minimum clearance of 2" but stove pipe has larger clearances. single wall = 18" and double-wall stove pipe = 6", 9" from ceiling.

If plywood is behind the stone then that is your nearest combustible that the stove body clearance is measured from.
 
Yes, double-wall chimney pipe has a minimum clearance of 2" but stove pipe has larger clearances. single wall = 18" and double-wall stove pipe = 6", 9" from ceiling.

If plywood is behind the stone then that is your nearest combustible that the stove body clearance is measured from.
I miss read what the op posted, I thought he was referring to the black pipe from the stove to the wall pass through, not realizing that he was referring to the actual double wall class a pipe going through the wall.
 
We applied a modified thinset directed to a block painted wall. It had a very flat coat of paint on it. The mason that did it asked around to make sure it was ok to do and it would not peel away. The skimcoat painted surface that was there was not smooth...it was pretty rough.

We applied the modified thinset and let it dry for a day. Then we tried to remove it and found that it bonded VERY well to the paint. We then used real slate veneer and finished the job. Came out great and has been fine for 2 years. It is about 15' tall.

The limestone mantel is held in with a masonry adhesive. It has not sagged or drooped at all.

What it really boils down to is this....are you applying to a smooth or a rough surface? If your blocks are smooth and your paint is smooth, it is likely a bad idea.

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Thanks all for the opinions! Hogwildz, your install looks great!

I found a product called clipstone that looks nice and should work well. It requires a sheet of plywood to be mounted and then the stones have clips that screw to the plywood. My pipe is double wall so Id have to keep 2" clearance on the plywood. The stone requires no mortar which will work well and save me from having to drag mortar in my finished basement.
Looks pretty cool. But also looks like a lot of drilling & screwing. Looks from their site, that it is made to go over wood sheathing? Might end up being a lot of work to install over masonry? Research is the key.
 
If one has a masonry wall behind the stove, to install wood over that so you can apply a fake stone product over the wood is absolute folly!

Minimize your fire risk! Do Not enhance it!

Sadly, you got your order of events slightly mixed up and finished the room before you did the needed dirty work........

Use real masonry products, Work neat, tarp the work area and minimize the mess AND the fire risk.

Dave
 
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If one has a masonry wall behind the stove, to install wood over that so you can apply a fake stone product over the wood is absolute folly!

Minimize your fire risk! Do Not enhance it!

Sadly, you got your order of events slightly mixed up and finished the room before you did the needed dirty work........

Use real masonry products, Work neat, tarp the work area and minimize the mess AND the fire risk.

Dave

Yeah, I dont know what the heck I was thinking, amateur mistake I guess. Ive got some thinking to do on this so that I dont make another.
 
Honestly I would stud out the wall with steel studs insulate with roxul then cover in cement board and finish as you like. That masonry wall will send lots of heat out through it. Unless you have insulation on the outside of it then disregard everything I said lol.
 
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Honestly I would stud out the wall with steel studs insulate with roxul then cover in cement board and finish as you like. That masonry wall will send lots of heat out through it. Unless you have insulation on the outside of it then disregard everything I said lol.
Best answer!!!!
 
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So i ended up doing metal lath and a scratch coat yesterday. I checked it this morning and everything seems to have set up nicely.

General question about lath and scratch. I embedded the mortar well into the lath. Does the mortar bond to the block wall behind it. Or does the lath carry most of the weight and provide the support?
 

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So i ended up doing metal lath and a scratch coat yesterday. I checked it this morning and everything seems to have set up nicely.

General question about lath and scratch. I embedded the mortar well into the lath. Does the mortar bond to the block wall behind it. Or does the lath carry most of the weight and provide the support?
mesh screen if the wall was painted. Will do fine. Don't forget to wet the scratch coat when you start putting the stones on.
 
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Finished this project over the weekend. Overall I'm very pleased. May not be a perfect job but pleasing to this amateur DIY'er.
 

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Did you consider a mantle? and if so, what made you decide against it?
 
Looks great jreed. Nice job.