stove install needing help

[Gooserider]

Note that your flex liner is ONLY acceptable for use WITHIN the chimney, and then only if insulated since your chimney is not up to current Code standards (no clay flue liners, etc) Once you come out of the chimney, you must transition to Class A pipe for the exposed section.

One option I haven't seen mentioned, might be to rebuild the masonry chimney straight up through the roof, and then run the flex liner to the top... This would save you the cost of the Class A pipe and the transition, but I'm not sure it would be less expensive overall - it would depend on how much the masonry work cost.

Gooserider

 

[lazarpa]

I was thinking the same thing Goose

I just didnt know how much it would cost...I mean, they would have to add maybe 4 feet of brick...That is from where it is now, to about 3 feet above the peak of the house....

but it would be that they have to cut a hole in the roof (aka the peak) and add some brick...

Has anyone done this..??? Is it a long job?

 

[begreen]

I like this option too. Masonry work is not that expensive as compared to other alternatives. Good suggestion. It will still require a top plate, storm collar and cap. And it will require a better job done on the stove thimble (where the interior room pipe connects to the flue pipe.

Smirky, is the rose colored surface plaster on brick? Is there wooden lath on this surface or is there a framed box surrounding the chimney in the room? The goal of the question is to determine how close to combustibles this connection is.

 

[lazarpa]

BeGreen, Well since it was used as pot bellies on every floor....The Face of the rose colored surface is plaster on brick.....and there are wooden laths.....But here is the kicker.....if you are looking at the pic with my stove.......about two feet from the edges inward is wood stucds with nothing but plaster under it....then after that too the center were I have the pipe going into is brick with plaster......

So am I good on this, or should i rip down all the wood laths and put up brick on the outside....

 

[Gooserider]

BeGreen, Well since it was used as pot bellies on every floor....The Face of the rose colored surface is plaster on brick.....and there are wooden laths.....But here is the kicker.....if you are looking at the pic with my stove.......about two feet from the edges inward is wood stucds with nothing but plaster under it....then after that too the center were I have the pipe going into is brick with plaster......

So am I good on this, or should i rip down all the wood laths and put up brick on the outside....

Plaster over studs, or with laths in it counts as a "combustible wall" - this isn't automatically a problem for most of your setup as long as you maintain adequate clearances as listed in your stove manual, possibly using some of the clearance reduction techniques that they will also mention.

Where there IS a problem potentially is in the area immediately surrounding the entrance of the stove pipe into the chimney - Again, as listed in your manual, there are specs for passing through a wall or into a chimney which involve not having combustibles to close to that horizontal section of pipe. You might need to do some reconstruction in that immediate area to ensure that you are meeting the requirements for a pass through / chimney entrance.

Also if there were multiple stoves in the past, and given the history of your house, it is important to check the chimney structure in general to make sure that any unused openings are properly sealed with masonry, etc.

Note that some of this may be dependent on just what you do for lining and repairing the rest of the chimney.

I would repeat my earlier suggestion that you might want to get a good chimney professional, and/or your building inspector to come look at the setup and suggest what you should do - this is a complex problem, and you are going to need to get an inspection at some point, it would be good to find out what the AHJ is going to want to see, or require you to do in order to get the needed approval. (However it may be good to have a proposed plan of action, or possibly a list of options, to offer while asking "would this be OK?" as opposed to just saying "what should I do?")

Gooserider

 

[lazarpa]

Goose, I agree 100% and that is why Im here....Im noting everything down that you all are teaching me and Im taking notes and making a rough idea how I want it done. ( I do know that I will not have this done this season, so i might as well make sure I get everything done and ready for next season...aka the non-season wood that I have)

As for the entrance going into the chimney, I was thinking of getting a thimble that goes through the wall, plus it does have a clay insert that I taken out that is a 6 inch opening. I do know that they used to use these back in the day...But do they still use them today?

and as for the openings, there are acouple of openings that I know of...There is one in the basement, that im guessing was a clean out for the old chimney and on the second floor there is a opening for another pot belly stove. and of course in the pics you can see where the guy opened the chimney to make another class A chimney.....

 

[Gooserider]

Goose, I agree 100% and that is why Im here....Im noting everything down that you all are teaching me and Im taking notes and making a rough idea how I want it done. ( I do know that I will not have this done this season, so i might as well make sure I get everything done and ready for next season...aka the non-season wood that I have)

I tend to agree, this does not look like a project that is going to be a quick and easy one. Much as it hurts, I'd suggest that you need to burn the overpriced dino-fuel for the rest of the winter while you plan out the project and do it right while getting ready for next year. This will also allow you to let your wood season properly (and remember to purchase the rest of the wood you need in the spring...)

In the mean time I think we all hope you are not going to burn with the current setup - it is one of the SCARIEST setups from a safety standpoint that we have seen in a long time - including threads where we've had people LOOKING for unsafe setups in their neighborhoods... We noticed the bunch of kids toys in one of the photos, please keep them safe and don't burn that setup until you get it fixed properly - extra sweaters are far less traumatic than a visit from the guys with red trucks....

As for the entrance going into the chimney, I was thinking of getting a thimble that goes through the wall, plus it does have a clay insert that I taken out that is a 6 inch opening. I do know that they used to use these back in the day...But do they still use them today?

There are three parts to this phase of the problem... 1. The hole in the chimney itself. 2. The penetration through the wall into the chimney hole. 3. The installation of the liner into the chimney, and connecting it to the stove pipe.

1. The hole in the chimney needs to be solidly constructed so that house air can't penetrate - there are several ways to build this, including cementing one of those clay inserts into the hole, or a metal thimble, or even just a round cast cement hole. It should be about the same diameter as the OD of the liner snout, although a little slack won't hurt and can make life a little easier. The inside end must be as close to even with the inside wall of the chimney as possible. The outside must work with the wall passthrough.

2. The wall passthrough must have sufficient clearance to combustibles, which can be attained in several ways depending on just how you make the passthrough. The simplest would be to cut an opening in the wall 12" in each direction from the outside of the pass through and build it back with non-combustibles - either masonry or Durock, or sheet metal. (Note that if the wall in the area of the pass through is plaster over brick, with NO wooden laths, then you really don't have a problem - plaster is non-combustible, it is only the lath, or any wallpaper, or other combustible components that are a problem that needs to be resolved) The chimney opening must work with the wall passthrough so there are no gaps...

3. There are two or three ways of dealing with a liner in a chimney, and the pass through a chimney and wall... Your stove manual should show you a few approaches, if it doesn't try downloading some of the VC stove manuals I know they have some good pics, I've seen them. However, in essence you usually put the body of a "removable snout" style "T" on the end of the liner before pushing it down the chimney. You can cap the body, or what some folks do is put an extra section of liner on the bottom of the "T" body to run down to the cleanout opening lower down, and cap that - either is acceptable. The liner then gets pushed / pulled down the chimney and when the snout opening lines up with the hole in the chimney (which can be tricky) the snout, and if needed an extra section of stainless connector pipe, gets pushed through the hole and attached to the body, such that enough sticks out of the wall to attach your connector pipe going to the stove (the connector pipe between the wall and the stove is the only LEGAL place you can use single wall black steel pipe, as long as you follow clearance rules)

and as for the openings, there are acouple of openings that I know of...There is one in the basement, that im guessing was a clean out for the old chimney and on the second floor there is a opening for another pot belly stove. and of course in the pics you can see where the guy opened the chimney to make another class A chimney.....

I'm not sure what you are talking about in terms of "in the pics you can see where the guy opened the chimney to make another class A chimney" - but the rule is that you can only have ONE appliance per flue (i.e. a smoke passage, you can have multiple flues in a masonry chimney as long as they are all completely seperate, and the chimney is built per codes) - you might need to make a second flue for the other chimney if there is one.

The bottom cleanout opening can be filled with a tightly sealing solid metal door, which should be kept closed and sealed at all times except when cleaning out any debris - (note that if you cap the liner, you may never get any debris to clean out there...) Any other opening should be plugged and sealed with masonry or other solid non-combustible material. (Those "pie-plate" metal covers you sometimes see are NOT acceptable!) The idea is that if you were to have a chimney fire, there should not be any openings in the chimney where smoke or fire could potentially escape.

Gooserider