Stove manufacturer

[jeff123]

Can anyone identify a stove ? It's for sale in my town and I'm thinking about purchasing it. No name or make on the stove. It vents on the side an appears to have a top chamber opend on one end for smoke to flue. Firebrick on bottom and up side 1 row

I tried to post th photos but the size is over the max 350kb.

Is there anyway to post this pics ?

Is there anyone I can email them to who might be able to help ?

Jeff

 

[begreen]

A picture will really help. Here's a link to picture posting info.

https://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/forums/viewannounce/27_2/

 

[jeff123]

Hi,

I tried to shrink the size no luck, can I email you the photo ?

thx

jeff

 

[begreen]

sure, I'll pm you.

 

[begreen]

Posted, though I don't recognize it. Is the firebox firebrick lined and does it have a baffle in it?

The stove kind of looks like a big steel version of a Jotul 118. Homebrewed?

 

[jeff123]

It has firebrick on the bottom and 1 row up the sides. If the def of a baffle is what I call a false ceiling on the firebox with one end open to let smoke up to teh top chamber and out the flue, then yes it has a baffle.


Could be a copycat homebrewed, is that always a bad thing ?

thx

jeff

 

[begreen]

Yes, that's what I meant by a baffle. If done well by a small shop, that may not be a bad thing at all. This might be a decent shop heater. If modded with added secondary air, and some legs, it might actually be a decent stove. Not epa approved of course, but maybe worth resurrection if it's seams are all in good shape.

 

[jeff123]

Looking at the picture you can't see the legs , it has plain basic steel legs about 5 inches high. it also has 7 inch side flue, should I reduce to 6" or leave along ?

The stove is going in my unfinished basement just to add a little secondary heat which would rise to my living area.

My plan is to clean the stove up, some paint and I'm good to go.

Any suggestions of other "tweaks" to the stove to prepare for winter I might consider ?

thanks you for all your help

Jeff

 

[begreen]

Examine the baffle for cracks and/or warping. Be sure all the firebrick is in good condition. I wouldn't downsize the flue, especially in a basement installation. Is the floor cement in the basement? The stove will need to have plenty of clearance from combustibles. If you are a tinkerer, we have seen some folks add a secondary manifold to old stoves like these with some success. You might want to stick a pipe on it outside after it's painted to break it in and see how it burns.

 

[jeff123]

After comparing the black bear 118 to mine as you suggested I do believe it's a copy, all measurements match and it looks very much like it. My stove has a sold steel loading door which closes flat against the stove face, no groves or gasket.

Should I leave this alone or locate a flat gasket material and attach it to the inner face of the door so when shut it seals tight ?

jeff

 

[Jags]

After comparing the black bear 118 to mine as you suggested I do believe it's a copy, all measurements match and it looks very much like it. My stove has a sold steel loading door which closes flat against the stove face, no groves or gasket.

Should I leave this alone or locate a flat gasket material and attach it to the inner face of the door so when shut it seals tight ?

jeff

I don't want to throw water on your fire, but......If you are looking to get this install insured (homeowners), which I do suggest, you may have difficulty in doing so. Most insurance companys want to see EPA cert. plates and have a MFG name. I would just hate to see you put time and effort into a stove install that is not gonna be accepted when you make that phone call to your insurance company.

The thing looks like its built like a tank, but sometimes you are best to walk away, not because the thing won't work, but because of all the questions that don't have answers. Just food for thought.

 

[jeff123]

I wasn't aware I needed to call my insurance company, never crossed my mind. Is it insurance comapy policy to deni a claim if you don't tell them you have a stove and supply doc ? How does a stove differ from a standard fireplace ?

Jeff

 

[begreen]

Jags brings up a good point. Check with local regs and insurance company before installing in the house. The lack of gasketing sounds homebrewed and is not a good sign. If you get the go ahead from local inspector (unlikely) and insurance co, then I would still advise running it outside to learn if it works well at all.

 

[Jags]

I wasn't aware I needed to call my insurance company, never crossed my mind. Is it insurance comapy policy to deni a claim if you don't tell them you have a stove and supply doc ? How does a stove differ from a standard fireplace ?

Jeff

I'm not an insurance guy for sure, but I would think they could have the option of denying a claim when they found out a "new" install was completed using a non-EPA cert. home built stove. Yours may not care. Mine said "we wanna see a receipt for professional install, and EPA cert. stove" after that, they didn't care.

 

[jeff123]

I will run it outdoors in the next couple of days, what are the signs I should be aware of " working well" or "not working well" what to look for ?

thx

Jeff

 

[Jags]

I will run it outdoors in the next couple of days, what are the signs I should be aware of " working well" or "not working well" what to look for ?

thx

Jeff

Do you have "Control" of the fire? Are there any "hot" spots. After fire is established, do you get any measurable amount of smoke?

Be Aware, that if you don't have a manual for install, that your distance to combustibles will revert to the old standards of about 15 ft from everything (over-exaggeration).

 

[jeff123]

Can you define "hot spots"

 

[fossil]

...Be Aware, that if you don't have a manual for install, that your distance to combustibles will revert to the old standards of about 15 ft from everything.

That can be quite tough to achieve, too. Some limited success has been realized through the use of very powerful magnetic fields, but of course, this significantly impacts installation costs and complexity. :wow: Rick

 

[jeff123]

It seems almost impossible to get 15 feet from anything, combustibles ?

 

[jeff123]

Thanks

that's I can do

 

[Jags]

It seems almost impossible to get 15 feet from anything, combustibles ?

From my prior post, please note the "over-exaggeration" part. The 15ft was a little tong in cheek.

The hot spots I am referring to relates to the old plate steel smoke dragon days, when Bubba in his garage whipped up his own version of a wood stove and welded his name to the front of it, then sold it to the nearest buyer. Some of those old stoves, due to lack of engineering had wild draft patterns and would cause one area or another to almost glow (i.e. hot spot).

 

[jeff123]

Shows how new, and gulable, I am on the 15 feet.

The hot spots makes sense now, I'm guessing I'm going to need to get the stove really fired up outside before I notice any hot spots, I'll give it a try.

thx

Jeff

 

[Jags]

Shows how new, and gulable, I am on the 15 feet.

The hot spots makes sense now, I'm guessing I'm going to need to get the stove really fired up outside before I notice any hot spots, I'll give it a try.

thx

Jeff

I wouldn't take it into an "over fire" temp, thats just not good for it. If the stove is prone to hot spots they will show up during a normal "high" fire. Meaning the upper safe zone for temps. But it may take awhile (couple of hours).

Fossils suggestion of a magnetic force field may also reduce your clearance to combustibles, but your electric meter will probably start to emit more smoke than your stove.

 

[fossil]

...a little tong in cheek.

Oh man, that's gotta hurt! (which cheek was it?) :ahhh: Rick

 

[Jags]

...a little tong in cheek.

Oh man, that's gotta hurt! (which cheek was it?) :ahhh: Rick

The left one, I use it to get the Copenhagen out.