Stove piping and stove question

[chumscustoms]

Just moved into a new home. It is a older farmhouse. I would like to install a VC stove in the basement.
My question.
1. Can I run my stove pipe at a 45 for 4ft then horizontal for 3ft to get out of the home

2. If I centrally located my wood stove in the basement will a forced air furnace
Circulate the heat through the house if I have my return duct open near the stove.

The home is 28x28 two story with basement.
No ducting up to the second level just open grates in floor\ceiling


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[begreen]

The stove will need an independent flue that is sized correctly for the stove. The return air on the furnace needs to be at least 10 ft from the stove. Heating from the basement can work in some cases if there is good convection up the stairwell from the basement. If the basement is uninsulated that can make it tougher due to heat loss through the walls.

 

[chumscustoms]

I plan on foaming the basement wallspice as soon as I get the correctopic drainage necessary.

It will have its own flue.
I was just wondering if I could run at a 45 for a bit so I can locate it closers to the center of the basement for a central location.

 

[begreen]

The 45 should be ok. The 3ft horiz is more of an issue. Would it be possible to eliminate with another 45?

 

[coaly]

1. Can I run my stove pipe at a 45 for 4ft then horizontal for 3ft to get out of the home

Depends on chimney.

If interior chimney and flue is the same size as stove outlet, with horizontal pipe pitched upward at least 1/4 inch per foot, probably.
Draft required to evacuate smoke is also needed to make the stove work. There is a measurement of low pressure area at stove connection that needs to remain within the design specs of stove. Rising gasses in chimney create lower pressure or more draft. The connector pipe, elbows, spark screen at top, firebox resistance (stove design with highest resistance being intake opening) all reduces draft by causing resistance. Damper is a variable resistance not always needed. There are formulas that can calculate what draft will be at any given temperature differential inside and outside chimney. It's not just a question of IF it will work, it is also how much more heat is required to be left up the chimney decreasing efficiency to make it work. The smaller the stove, the less heat loss it has to leave up the chimney and the more critical it gets.