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Stove Placement in Barn-Need Thoughts.

Post in 'Classic Wood Stove Forums (prior to approx. 1993)' started by Srbenda, Oct 5, 2013.

  1. begreen

    begreen Mooderator Staff Member

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    Both should be available at the same place the Durock came from. In the least, put a metal plate under each foot of the stove.

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  2. Bootstrap

    Bootstrap New Member

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    In my 16'x24' "barn" I found a convenient corner to install the stove. Most imporantly was blockup up all gaps in doors and such to stop the draft. Making my barn as airtight as possible has made the whole thing much warmer.
  3. Srbenda

    Srbenda Burning Hunk

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    OK, Hearth is installed, time to run some pipe. I have included my very fancy, architectural drawing of what I need from a pipe perspective. I got a quote from a local stove store, at $800, and of course, I couldn't tell them I was hooking it up to a Fisher.

    Here's the image. I am doing a basic cathedral mount, straight up between 2 trusses, and through the plywood/ shingle roof. It 's all open and accessible, so it should be "easy".

    Can you guys help with what parts I need to make this work?

    I am looking at the DynamiteBuys website for parts, as they seem MUCH cheaper.
    [​IMG]
  4. begreen

    begreen Mooderator Staff Member

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    Call Sean at dynamite buys and arrange to send him your drawing. He will set you up depending on the brand pipe chosen. Be aware of clearances. Single-wall connector is 18" from any combustible, double-wall is 6". I'm not sure how close that truss base is or the outside wall.
  5. Srbenda

    Srbenda Burning Hunk

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    I plan to do single wall up to the truss, since it's a long section, and the cost savings associated with single wall. Then I will move to double wall, as I have a 24" span in between the trusses. Then to a cathedral mount on the ceiling, and through the roof. (somehow).
  6. begreen

    begreen Mooderator Staff Member

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    You don't mix the two. For that short run you might as make it double-wall all the way with those clearances. Add a telescopic section just before the elbow to make it easier to do the final adjustments.
  7. Srbenda

    Srbenda Burning Hunk

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    Hmm, I read not to mix manufacturers, but not stovepipe types either?
  8. Srbenda

    Srbenda Burning Hunk

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    After getting a couple quotes on double-wall pipe, I might be re-evaluating that option. My best quote has been $769, and that's a lot of coin to hook up in an old barn with a $100 stove. I need to evaluate what I would need to do for a single wall pipe install.
  9. oldspark

    oldspark Guest

    Couldn't you just go to the truss with single wall and then class A from the trusses on up, Menards has sales on their Class A and it ends up being very reasonable.
    But you make a good point about the cost of the chimney vs the stove, a lot of people have incurred a severe case of sticker shock going through the process.
  10. Srbenda

    Srbenda Burning Hunk

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    Thats, what I am looking at, going single wall, up past the trusses, and shielding the trusses. I have 24" clear between the trusses, so I have 9" spacing on single wall. I might be able to shield that appropriately. We don't have Menards, but we have Lowe's and HD, and I could go all double-wall with them for about $400, including cap, flashing, and pipe. If I go all single wall to the roof, with an insulated pass through, then I could probably get it below $300.
  11. oldspark

    oldspark Guest

    Sorry, I might have misunderstood, when you say double wall are you talking stove pipe or class A pipe?
  12. Srbenda

    Srbenda Burning Hunk

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  13. oldspark

    oldspark Guest

    That's class A.
    Forget the cost for the sake of the discussion.
    Go to the trusses with single wall, then a ceiling box to change over to class A, then all the way through the roof.
    Is that what you are doing, sounds like you want to go through the trusses with single wall.
  14. oldspark

    oldspark Guest

    That's what I did in my shop and it worked well.
  15. Srbenda

    Srbenda Burning Hunk

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  16. oldspark

    oldspark Guest

    I had to make a frame for my ceiling box with some 2X4's between the rafters, was not a problem at all.
  17. Srbenda

    Srbenda Burning Hunk

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  18. oldspark

    oldspark Guest

    Yea that type of box more or less is what I used.
  19. begreen

    begreen Mooderator Staff Member

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    Slow down a bit, your plan so far is not good because you lack understanding of your options and requirements. Have you downloaded a good chimney installation guide? If not, get one from M&G's or Selkirk's website for the pipe. Once your options are clear this will be straight forward.

    First thing is terminology. There is a difference between double-wall class A, high-temp pipe and double-wall connector pipe that is used on the interior. You gave an example of Supervent double-wall class A pipe - http://www.lowes.com/pd_37621-85178...Ns=p_product_qty_sales_dollar|1&storeId=10151.

    This is double-wall interior pipe. Use this pipe to connect between the support box and the stove. It has a clearance requirement of 6" horiz. so you won't need to shield the trusses.
    http://www.lowes.com/ProductDisplay...gId=10051&cmRelshp=req&rel=nofollow&cId=PDIO1

    I would install a cathedral ceiling support box kit to make this work. Here is the Lowes item (though I note that Sears sells it for $130).
    http://www.lowes.com/pd_271995-8517..._product_qty_sales_dollar|1&page=2&facetInfo=

    http://www.sears.ca/product/superve...ral-ceiling-support-kit/642-000862334-JM6CCSK
    Last edited: Dec 21, 2013
  20. begreen

    begreen Mooderator Staff Member

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    Here is what the install would look like. Make sure that the chimney is at least 3ft above the roof exit and at least 2 ft taller than the roof when measured 10 ft away.

    ceiling support box.JPG duravent cathedral box roof side.JPG Cathedral_box.JPG 10-3-2 rule.JPG
  21. oldspark

    oldspark Guest

    With no ceiling I guess it makes more sense to go up to the ceiling with the stove pipe, I am installing a ceiling in my shop so I stopped at the truss with the stove pipe.
  22. Srbenda

    Srbenda Burning Hunk

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    Yeah, you hit that nail on the head. I am by no means a chimney expert.

    No, I have no idea what I am talking about. But...you guys are the experts.

    Either Home Deport or Lowe's should be able to provide what I need. If I can post some more photos of the install area, will that help you guys direct me to the right parts and pipes I need?
  23. Srbenda

    Srbenda Burning Hunk

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    Getting some progress finally.

    [​IMG]
  24. valley ranch

    valley ranch Feeling the Heat

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    Srbenda, Nice barn! Here is what I did at the Nevada ranch to reduce the distance from the wall. Air travels under the concrete boarded stand up and up the wall. The standoffs are 1/2" conduit. the wall stays the same temp as the room. The insurance company was impressed. The stove pipe is over 18" from the wall.

    This type of think will let you be closer to the wall.

    Again, Nice barn.

    Richard

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  25. Srbenda

    Srbenda Burning Hunk

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    We are both operating on the same principle. I used metal studs for underneath and against the wall for the air clearance. Additionally, I have a slot between the barn floor and the wall for additional updraft between the hearth and wall. Now just I need to figure out the stove pipe problem. :mad:

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