Stove rehab question?

[BobUrban]

I was given this stove and am in the process of rehabing it. It is in great shape and all I am doing is hitting it with a wire brush on an angle grinder. Lubricating the pins and rebuilding the handles. I have access to a welding shop and am a welder and fabricator by trade. I have included the new handles I built yesterday to replace the broken, missing junk wood ones that were there.

My question is: Is the suppose to be a grate or elevated rack for the wood/logs to lay on? The bottom of the stove has ribs that will allow some air under the wood but I was not sure if there was a grate in there at one time or not? I could build a nice one rather easily but was also thinking of lining the bottom with fire brick and calling it good.

Tell me what you think or any opinion on this little Franklin knock off?

Thanks - Bob Urban

 

[cmonSTART]

Ah, it looks like you have a knock off of an old VC Defiant. There will be no log rack or grate in the bottom - just add about an inch of playground sand and build your fire directly on that.

 

[My Oslo heats my home]

I wonder if the grill in front is considered an andiron?

 

[BobUrban]

That grill in front is bolted in place??? Not real sure what it is there for other than safety? It do have a cheesy screen that fits in the front doorway but it will never be used.

Thank you for the help with my base. I am so looking forward to warm wood heat this winter

Bob Urban

 

[fbelec]

def don't put brick in there. if that is a copy of a defiant you want to build your fires up against the right side baffle so when the smoke exits out of the firebox thru that 4 by 8 inch hole on the bottom of that right side for secondary fire it's not blocked. it looks just like my defiant. so if you don't have any manual or rebuilding manual look at the one for the vermont castings defiant to help give you ideas on what should be done for rebuilding and for running it.
good luck

frank

 

[fbelec]

oh ya. you might want to keep that grate in front of the front doors. that will hold the fire off the doors and will prevent the doors from warping.

 

[BobUrban]

Thanks for the tips on my rebuild thread. I am installing this into my home as soon as I get the contractor here to install my chimney. I am so looking forward to wood heat warmth this winter.

Frank - Are you happy with your stove? I know mine is a knock off but it was free and esentially it is in great shape. I have ordered new door gasket material and will put new caulk in all the joints but other than that and the handle rebuild I think it is good to go. I can alwats upgrade if I am unhappy with its performance but for this winter - free seemed like a nice price.

Bob Urban
Fowlerville, MI

 

[fbelec]

Thanks for the tips on my rebuild thread. I am installing this into my home as soon as I get the contractor here to install my chimney. I am so looking forward to wood heat warmth this winter.

Frank - Are you happy with your stove? I know mine is a knock off but it was free and esentially it is in great shape. I have ordered new door gasket material and will put new caulk in all the joints but other than that and the handle rebuild I think it is good to go. I can alwats upgrade if I am unhappy with its performance but for this winter - free seemed like a nice price.

Bob Urban
Fowlerville, MI

i'm happy with my stove. i think you might want to take a look at your secondary air passage. that is the hole that is about 1.5 inches around and next to the side door towards the back. put a light in the chimney hole and see if you can see any light coming thru. if you don't your good to go but if you do you don't want to use the damper at the side of the stove. just use it as a updraft stove. if you look at the directions for the defiant you'll prob see it's the same thing. i would run it the same way and make sure when your ready to go you have a chimney thermometer on top of the stove to run it at 500 minimum so you don't have a chimney fire later on.