Stove shut down on high temps.

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rwebs

Member
Hearth Supporter
Dec 24, 2009
16
Central Maine
I have a Breckwell P23FSL, and have been burning pellets (approx 6 ton per year) since 2008. I have not changed my cleaning tactics since then, and attempt to maintain a clean stove. Clean everywhere recommended by the manual. My problem is that the stove shuts down now when burning on level 4, and seems very hot to the touch around the combustion side even on level 3. I took the combustion blower off earlier this winter and scraped the blades of the impeller, and cleaned everything I could find on that end. My question is would it be possible that the combustion blower is not turning at the 3000 rpm it's supposed to or is there something I'm missing on the cleaning end? Hate to throw parts at a problem not knowing if it will solve them. I have no way of checking the speed of the blower, nor do I know of a pellet stove repair man, like the Maytag man.
 
And your convection blower and its motor are clean and you have followed the makers plate on lubrication and that it runs? (number one cause of high limit trips is a failing, failed, or plugged convection blower).

Also a large ash build up in the heat exchangers combustion air path will slow the combustion air flow down enough that the convection blower can't remove enough heat from the exchanger to keep the temperature blow the high limit.

It is also possible that a damper gets closed too far and causes the same conditions as the ash load in the combustion air path.
 
Replaced the convection blower last year, and cleaned all the fins recently. Clean the heat exchanger a couple of times a day. Not saying some of these may still be the problem, just thinking that what I have been doing worked for the last 5 years, so am thinking it is something besides dirty stove. Took all the exhaust piping off a ton ago, and cleaned that, even though it was not really dirty. I'm still hoping it is a cleaning issue, that's cheap to fix.
 
The part of the heat exchanger you can't clean with that scraper is more important than what that scraper cleans that is only a fraction of entire exchanger.

While those tubes are considered by most to be the heat exchanger conduction allows heat to be sucked from more of the exhaust path than just those tubes.

Follow the air and replacing the convection blower last year doesn't mean that it has been lubricated (if the blower calls for it) at least twice since (every six months).

A lot of folks think that cleaning the squirrel cage is the only thing that needs cleaning on the blowers, it isn't, the cooling fan in the motor case need cleaning or you can trip the 104::F thermal protection circuit on that motor (causing the heat exchanger to no longer remove enough heat to keep the exchanger below that high limit trip point) just like having it run low or out of lubrication.

Locate all ash clean-outs that are likely to be hiding behind the fake firebrick and do a bit of thumping from top to bottom on the back and side walls of the firebox, along with the use of the vacuum and brushes the back of the cavity behind that firebox wall via conduction is part of the stove heat exchanger system and if there is an ash plug in that it can slow down the exhaust gas flow close to high limit switch.
 
The part of the heat exchanger you can't clean with that scraper is more important than what that scraper cleans that is only a fraction of entire exchanger.

While those tubes are considered by most to be the heat exchanger conduction allows heat to be sucked from more of the exhaust path than just those tubes.

Follow the air and replacing the convection blower last year doesn't mean that it has been lubricated (if the blower calls for it) at least twice since (every six months).

A lot of folks think that cleaning the squirrel cage is the only thing that needs cleaning on the blowers, it isn't, the cooling fan in the motor case need cleaning or you can trip the 104::F thermal protection circuit on that motor (causing the heat exchanger to no longer remove enough heat to keep the exchanger below that high limit trip point) just like having it run low or out of lubrication.

Locate all ash clean-outs that are likely to be hiding behind the fake firebrick and do a bit of thumping from top to bottom on the back and side walls of the firebox, along with the use of the vacuum and brushes the back of the cavity behind that firebox wall via conduction is part of the stove heat exchanger system and if there is an ash plug in that it can slow down the exhaust gas flow close to high limit switch.

Thanks Smokey, I'll see if I can find some other area to clean. After the 4 doors are removed and that is cleaned out, don't know how to get at any other place to clean. I'll pull the blower and see if there is anyway to access it from there. Nothing in the manual about how to get into the bowels of the beast.
 
Clean your stove. I will bet it is full if ash. Do you remove the small doors behind the fire pot and snake it with Romex?

Eric
 
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