Stove tips

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Archminer

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Sep 13, 2013
25
Ok, I'm new here. Havent stoked a fire for about ten years. At least not for 24/7 heat. I have a vogelzang frontiersman stove currently burning on the front porch, and a hotblast 1537 furnace on order.

Anyone have any tips on these stoves? I have mixed hardwood to burn. Have about 4 cords and more to cut up and split. Oak, cherry, curly maple, and alot of locust.

Only thing about the frontiersman I see is I wish It had a damper other than the the flue pipe. Thinking of fabing one up if y'all have any ideas

Thanks y'all.
 
The most important thing is having truly dry wood. Your wood should be cut, split and stacked in a windy spot for at least a year, maybe 2 to 3 depending on the type. Dry wood should read 20% moisture content or less to be considered fully seasoned. I just learned this from the experts here last year. How long has your wood been cut, split and stacked?
 
Since you have two non-EPA dirty burners, make sure you have dry wood and keep the chimneys clean. Dry wood means at least a year split and stacked in the open for most wood, two years or more for oak. Those stoves will handle wetter wood better than more efficient stoves, but you waste BTUs drying the water out, and gunk up the chimney faster. And gunk up the air.

Make sure everything is installed correctly, to code and manufacturer specs.

I used a 1557 furnace for a couple of years. It can make a ton of heat. It also consumed a ton of wood, but it did the job and was what I could afford at the time. I now burn 1/2-2/3 of what I used to.

Welcome. Be safe.
 
I have a VZ mountaineer still in my basement, don't know what I'm going to do with it as I replaced it with a nc30. It is probably similar in operation and usage both the mountaineer and your stove are EPA exempt 35-1 stoves. Waiting to finish my hearth expansion/ refinish project before I install the 30. The mountaineer also had no air control, just a damper control. The stove would heat alright with dry wood, but it loves wood, ie eats wood like crazy. I was thinking about fabing an air control on it for use in a hunting cabin that I go to up north, be decided against it. I would say to make sure the wood is dry, it will burn much hotter and produce far less particulates, thus was the case with mine. I'm sure others will chime in on recommendations on fabricating an air control, but my idea was to install two hinges on the air intake and a flat piece of steel on the top. Than drill and tap on one side on the bottom and install a threaded bolt and big end(ie wing nut type assembly) on it to open and close the air control. Thus, you should screw the air control in and out. It looks from the pictures of your stove this might work, but it will certainly void the warranty and any UL listing, which might cause issues with the insurance company. Welcome to the forums! ton's of great info and people on here!
 
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The Englander 30NC is not an EPA exempt 35-1 stove. It is an exceptionally clean burning EPA stove. It definitely has an air control. Based on the description I wonder if you have a different stove.
 
exceptionally clean burning EPA stove. It definitely has an air control. Based on the description I wonder if you have a different stove.
Begreen, I was referring to my old VZ Mountaineer, not my new englander, I meant his VZ and the mountaineer .
 
edited my first comment! Sorry for the confusion.
 
Much better. I couldn't understand why the upgrade to the 30NC when both were referred to as 35-1 exempt stoves. You are going to like the difference, but will find that they burn quite differently. The 30NC should put out more heat but it will definitely be choosier about dry wood.
 
That is what I've read on here. Most of the wood I have stacked has been seasoning since spring of 2012. The red oak I have i'll wait another year on but the other stuff should be good to go this fall with 18 months of being split and stacked on it.
 
Sounds like you are good to go with a nice stove and good wood.
 
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