Strange Harman Invincible Insert behavior on Honda EU3000i backup due to Feb 24 snowstorm power outa

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You didn't say, but did you check the polarity? Reversed Hot and Neutral.

Refrigerator and computer may not mind reversed polarity

Refrigerator is a simple motor that is across the line. (not polarity sensitive)

Computer power supply is built ready for European 240VAC at the flip of a built-in switch. (not polarity sensitive)

but stove control panel may. (fan blower voltage is controlled by chopped sine wave output of the opt iso and triac)

The cord is defiantly suspicious. Is it a Factory made cord, with molded ends, or shop made?

I'm guessing the 30A plug is of the Twist-Lock type.

(generator not running) At the generator 30A receptacle, see if the ground and neutral are bonded. They should be...Are they?

(cord Plugged in) At the 20A duplex receptacle receptacle, see if the ground and neutral are bonded. They should be ...Are they?

(cord Unplugged) At the 20A duplex receptacle receptacle, see if the ground and neutral are bonded. They should NOT be...Are they?

(cord Unplugged) At the 20A duplex receptacle end of 50' cord check (U-shaped) ground continuity back to tip of 30A Plug ground.

(cord Unplugged) At the 20A duplex receptacle end of 50' cord check (narrow) Hot continuity back to tip of 30A Plug Hot.

(cord Unplugged) At the 20A duplex receptacle end of 50' cord check (wide) Neutral continuity back to tip of 30A Plug Neutral.

Let's see what this gets us and go from there.
 
I have been reading these posts with a lot of curiosity. I agree that all grounding etc. should be checked and any problems eliminated if found. However, I am not sure that voltmeters and ammeters etc. can solve this problem. It appeats that the load on the generator is a heavy inductive load relative to the size of the generator. Inductive loads are caused by motors, or any devices that have electric coils inside. The voltage and current do not happen at the same time in inductive circuits. If voltage and current occur at the same time we have get 100% of the power of the generator output this would be true for a totally resistive circuit.. In an inductice circuit the voltage occurs ahead ot the current. (Power or Watts is Voltage times Current). If voltage or current does not occur at the same time and are delayed enough this acts like low voltage in resistive circuoit. In industrial applications they refer to this as power factor and 100% power factor occurs when Voltage and Current occur at the same time. If this is true, a properly sized capicator across the line will solve the problem. The formula for Power or Watts is Voltage times Current times Power Factor. If this is the probem you would need some way to measure the power Factor. From this a value of capacitor can be calculated. I hope this is undersandable. I am trying to stay away from using engineering terminology as much as possible.

Dan
 
I understand where you're coming from and being an electrician and not an engineer I avoided this aspect that you presented.

Also, the refrigerator will cycle off for a considerable time and it's inductance will be out of the circuit during that time.

During that time of off cycle the stove should react differently...as in improved. Not sure OP has seen this happen???

What I'm trying to determine with my inquiries is if it possible that the Hot and Neutral are somehow reversed (flopped)

As I'm sure you are aware, it would be a bigger deal now than Neutral and Ground reversed...which depends on the Bonding situation.

Anyhow, glad to see you're watching here.

Whatever caused this (click on LINK below) may relate to this situation...I don't know...


Stove Control's Green Ground Wire Overload???
 
Master of Smoke said:
You didn't say, but did you check the polarity? Reversed Hot and Neutral.

POLARITY AT GENERATOR AND AT END OF 50' EXTENSION CORD ARE CORRECT

Refrigerator and computer may not mind reversed polarity

Refrigerator is a simple motor that is across the line. (not polarity sensitive)

Computer power supply is built ready for European 240VAC at the flip of a built-in switch. (not polarity sensitive)

but stove control panel may. (fan blower voltage is controlled by chopped sine wave output of the opt iso and triac)

The cord is defiantly suspicious. Is it a Factory made cord, with molded ends, or shop made?

FACTORY MADE WITH MOLDED ENDS

I'm guessing the 30A plug is of the Twist-Lock type.

CORRECT

(generator not running) At the generator 30A receptacle, see if the ground and neutral are bonded. They should be...Are they?

GROUND AND NEUTRAL ARE NOT BONDED AND ACCORDING TO HONDA MANUAL ARE NOT SUPPOSED TO BE

(cord Plugged in) At the 20A duplex receptacle receptacle, see if the ground and neutral are bonded. They should be ...Are they?

NO (AND SHOULDN'T BE ACCORDING TO HONDA MANUAL)

(cord Unplugged) At the 20A duplex receptacle receptacle, see if the ground and neutral are bonded. They should NOT be...Are they?

THEY AREN'T

(cord Unplugged) At the 20A duplex receptacle end of 50' cord check (U-shaped) ground continuity back to tip of 30A Plug ground.

GOOD

(cord Unplugged) At the 20A duplex receptacle end of 50' cord check (narrow) Hot continuity back to tip of 30A Plug Hot.

GOOD

(cord Unplugged) At the 20A duplex receptacle end of 50' cord check (wide) Neutral continuity back to tip of 30A Plug Neutral.

NOT GOOD! IT IS INTERMITTENT WHEN I BEND THE PLUG END. JUMPS FROM FULL CONTINUITY TO ONLY PARTIAL. I BET THIS HAS SOMETHING TO DO WITH THE PROBLEM.

Let's see what this gets us and go from there.

THANKS FOR THE HELP TROUBLESHOOTING. [end of all caps] :)
 
Original poster here again. Just so there is no misunderstanding regarding the Honda wiring specs this is directly from the manual:

GROUND SYSTEM

Honda portable generators have a system ground that connects
generator frame components to the ground terminals in the AC output
receptacles. The system ground is not connected to the AC neutral
wire. If the generator is tested by a receptacle tester, it will not show
the same ground circuit condition as for a home receptacle.
 
Bad connection...not good:

High resistance. Heat. Voltage drop. come to mind. :)

I don't imagine the fridge and computer liked it either???


sandpipe said:
Original poster here again. Just so there is no misunderstanding regarding the Honda wiring specs this is directly from the manual:

GROUND SYSTEM

Honda portable generators have a system ground that connects
generator frame components to the ground terminals in the AC output
receptacles. The system ground is not connected to the AC neutral
wire. If the generator is tested by a receptacle tester, it will not show
the same ground circuit condition as for a home receptacle.

Okay, I'm good with that...now that is a KNOWN, not a Unknown.

Does the Manual make any reference to Grounding generator frame to earth?

What I'm getting to here is there is nowhere for any static and electrical noise produced within the Motor/Generator to be drained away...
it is like and island of sorts and is charged up and cannot find a path out.
This ground is networked throughout the whole wiring system through every appliance connected to it.

I guess, at this point it doesn't matter, since it ran fine on a different outlet and different cord and you're happy and solution was found.
 
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