Strange Hot Water System

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Have you ever heard of a stranger way of heating water?

  • What’s so strange? Everyone in my part of the country uses this method.

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  • This guy is completely nuts.

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WARNING: What follows is what happens when a guy has entirely too much time on his hands.

Brace yourself and try not to laugh too hard.

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I live WAY out in the country. Off grid. Photovoltaic solar power and generator power. Propane for cooking and propane refrigerator. Wood for heating (natch.)

There is a gas well nearby which the gas company had abandoned years ago. It gives off a very tiny bit of pure methane gas--from a coal seam about 600 feet down. I'm told that I could increase the flow by routinely pumping off the water that collects in the bottom of the well---but that would involve getting thousands of dollars worth of machinery: a gamble I'm not willing to bet on.

I hooked up to this well, and ran 200' of underground pipe to a large plate steel tank which I built near the house to build up volume. The tank is 20' x 2' round: a big project. From there it goes to my natural gas fired water heater in the basement.

There is only but a small volume and pressure to this gas. Originally, I started out with a 40 gallon HW tank. I had to adjust the flame on the tank to the absolute minimum size flame. (On a cookstove, it would be the kind of simmering flame that just barely rises above the burner---any smaller and out it goes.) Back to the water heater tank... a flame of this tiny size takes all day and night to recover a tank full of cold water.

The problem:
The longer this tiny flame stays on... the more likely that the gas pressure in the entire system would drop so low that it becomes impossible to even maintain the pilot!


I know it's hard to imagine living with such a system, but we did--and for a number of years. Yes---I could certainly "give in", hook up a propane water heater, and just pay for my hot water like everyone else, and forget about this small amount of "free gas"---but I cannot do it. I'm having too much fun being stubborn and trying to make it work.


I've had some improvements:

About 8 years ago, I switched tanks--and went from using a 40 gallon tank to a smaller 20 gallon model. BIG improvement! The smaller tank allows a quicker recovery--and an off period in which the gas supply and pressure can rebound and build. We've been able to squeeze several hot showers per day and dishwashing hot water from the system. as such---and only rarely (perhaps 4 times a year)would the system gas pressure drop down too low---an awful circumstance in which it would take at least two days to recover from. No real biggie---we can heat water on the propane cook stove or the woodstove in the winter. But not handy or fun.

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The most recent and really strange improvement:

Last summer, amidst cheers from my local Ace Hardware store (and un-relenting threats and bad vibes from my wife) I undertook a project which made my living room and kitchen quite a bit uglier, but improved my hot water system a great deal. I installed TWO water pre-heating tanks. I figured that, instead of putting cold well water into my gas hot water heater, I would put warm water in--and take a load off of my natural gas usage.

I bought two electric hot water heaters a 40 gallon tank... and a 6 gallon tank; stripped off the outer shells, insulation, thermostats and wiring--then painted them flat black.

Cold water from my supply comes into the first tank--the 40 gallon--which is sitting close to the back of my wood stove. In the summer, the water just comes up to room temperature. In the winter, the water gets warmed to about 85 degrees.




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I nixed various schemes such as water-backs in the stove and/or thermosyphon connections to the tank--we sit very near this contraption, and there's no way that I wanted to even produce the potential for steam and/or explosions --betting our very lives on a TPR valve functioning as it should. I'm a little surprised and disappointed in the 85 temperature, and will experiment-- perhaps with some baffles and insulation.

The plot thickens...

From that 40 gallon tank near the wood stove the water goes (under the floor again) and then over to the kitchen where it comes up and into a cabinet above our propane gas refrigerator. The 6 gallon tank there gets heated from beneath via a short insulated chimney extension from the refrigerator's exhaust. Water in that tank gets up to about 100 degrees.



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(I need to sew up an insulated curtain to go in front of the small tank--might raise the temperature even more.)

From the refrigerator tank, the water goes into our 20 gallon gas water heater in the basement (which is actually smiling at this point---it loves that nice warm water)

Our gas water heater hasn't gone out yet with this new arrangement. Knock on wood. We are taking nice long showers. No problems so far. Even my wife is liking the look of those tanks now!



Fine print:

All the tanks have TPR valves, TPR discharge piping, and tank drain piping that would meet any code requirement. There are a number of 2-way and 3-way valves in the basement which allow me to choose any path or bypass among the 3 tanks---and there is no combination of any possible valve settings that would produce a situation in which I have any tank not having a cold water supply to expand into (no closed systems). All hot and cold pipes insulated. The only "rule" that I'm aware of breaking is the admonition not to have propane and natural gas in the same dwelling---please: I think I'm not crazy enough to mix up those piping systems. Hey, I have three completely separate wiring systems all over the house (generator AC, inverted AC, and 12 VDC)... doesn't that entitle me to have two gas systems?

Any suggestions? Please: no advice to move back to the city... been there, done that: New Jersey, no less.
 
Seems like a bit of a specialized system, but sounds like it works for you... One thing I'd be tempted to do is put a layer of insulation on the woodstove tank covering the side away from the stove... My reasoning is that right now the tank is absorbing radiant heat from the stove on one side, but as soon as it gets above room temperature, the side away from the stove becomes a radiator in it's own right. If you put a layer of insulation on the back side of the tank, then you should stop it from radiating out the back and getting rid of the heat it picked up on the front side...

Similarly, I'm not quite clear on how the heat source for the kitchen tank works, but I would look at trying to insulate any part of the tank that isn't exposed to heat greater than the tank temperature - keep (or at least slow down) the tank from radiating heat back out.

From a safety standpoint, it sounds like you are doing the right thing with the water plumbing, but I'm a bit concerned about your gas, especially since it goes out on occasion... Pure methane is colorless and odorless - and is flammable / explosive in air at the right concentration. Even if it doesn't explode, it can still be deadly by displacing normal air and the oxygen in it.... "Factory" gas that comes from the gas co. has an "odorant" (Butyl Mercaptan as I recall) added to it, which is supposed to alert you via bad smell before you get to problematic levels - doesn't sound like you have this in your setup... Might be worth trying to add it (I'm not sure what's involved) or making sure that you have really good ventilation in case of leaks...

As I recall my history, the odorant addition became required by law after a disaster in TX where a school blew up, killing most of a generations worth of kids in that town... Turned out they had a leak in the gas main that filled the school's basement w/ gas, until it got sparked off by the furnace firing... I forget the exact date, but it was late 1800's or early 1900's... IOW, gas explosions can be nasty, and we'd rather you weren't the first Hearth.com member going orbital...

Gooserider
 
I keep saying I'm going to put a pre-heat tank in my attic to absorb some of that free Summer heat. Same reason - cold well water.
Could probably get by with just the preheater in July and August.
 
I am very much aware that the tank near the woodstove needs some insulation; I am being cautious in choosing some sort of insulation that can stand being that close to a woodstove AND be pleasant enough to live near. For a while I considered that perhaps I should not have removed all of the tank's insulation and shell, but once I learned of how extremely flammable that foam insulation is--I knew that none of it should be left exposed.

The 6 gallon tank above the refrigerator gets heated from the exhaust pipe of the propane refrigerator. This exhaust is normally just dissipated into the room. (I always leave windows cracked in this otherwise tight house.) At first I installed this 6 gallon tank with just the bottom of the shell removed---with the refrigerator exhaust aimed at the bare bottom of the tank. In that configuration, I could feel quite a bit of heat 'rolling' out and over the sides of the tank--where it could not possibly get into the tank Then I went and removed all the sheel and insulation---and the tank got much warmer. Now I need to sew up that insulated curtain to hang in the front to keep most of that heat inside the cabinet--and be further absorbed into the bare tank.

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Right now we are pretty much snowed in---and have had the woodstove fired up much more regularly than is usually the case. The temperature in that 40 gallon tank is now just a bit over 100 degrees.

When I first moved out here, the thought of being snowed in usually caused me to panic---and run for the tractor, chain up, and attack the steep hill with a blade. Now I'm to the point where getting snowed in feels like a pleasant experience. It's nice to look out the window and see only footprints to the woodshed and barn. Each fall I carefully build up a winter's worth of supplies--and then don't worry about it. The worst situation I was ever in was having to change generator brushes outdoors in February--and that really wasn't all that terrible. I had the brushes on hand for several years, and probably should have just gone ahead and replaced them during a nice summer day rather than wait for the inevitable (which nearly always seems to be in bad weather.) The Onan generator even "tells" you months in advance of when it needs brushes.
 
For the wood stove tank insulation, I would probably make a shell for the tank first - maybe reusing the original sheet metal skin, or something about that weight, and make a half round or a bit more with the edges bent in so as to hide the open edge of the insulation. I would then fill the shell with insulation - preferably a rock-wool (i.e. Roxul) blanket, or if not possibly just plain non-faced fiberglass, and sort of "snap" it over the tank... I'd probably try to make use of the top cover off the heater as well, though it might be a challenge to do much with that given that you have all the plumbing hooked up...

What is the heater sitting on - is that an insulator? (it should be...)

Gooserider
 
If you have Photovoltaic solar power why not use the sun to at least pre heat and in summer provide all you hot water. I know the other way may be more fun but... Be safe.
Ed
 
Since the cold water first enters the 40 gallon tank to be pre-heated, any insulation I put on that tank (during woodstove season) will be counter-productive the rest of the year---so I think I'm going to either leave that tank the way it is, or introduce some easily removable insulation blanket for the top and back.

The second tank (which gets heated over the refrigerator) is really where the action is. The higher I can get this temperature, the better. If the first tank were to get to 120 and the 2nd tank can only keep it at 100... well, you can see that would be a losing situation. The 6-gallon refrigerator tank is where I am concentrating my efforts. As I sit here at the computer, a bag of high loft polyester batting and a couple yards of fabric are sitting within eyesight---all I have to do is open up the sewing machine and make that insulated drape. The problem is that it's more fun to sit here and jawbone.

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Back in the "early days" out here, I tried several methods of solar heating water. In a nutshell, they were very successful in the summer, and costly disasters in the winter. We have a number of things working against us: temperatures in the minus teens, lots of gray skies, and a good size mountain to the south which blocks sun after 2PM, AND we lack the electricity it would take to make an active system. I seriously doubt that even all the pumps and insulation in the world would net us much, if any, hot water---due to the very limited solar input to such a system.

What I have now is a great improvement over what it has been; we are experiencing no down time; and, while we are far from getting unlimited hot water from our meager gas supply, we are getting by with very pleasant showers. The shower is really the only thing that requires hot water under pressure---I've been toying with the idea of installing a much larger container of water that would sit atop the woodstove--which would be used for laundry water. I can visualize some piping with a valve which would allow me to easily fill the container (better keep a close eye on that filling process) and a container drain tap that would be piped downstairs--and just gravity fed into the top of an open washing machine. I would size the container to match the volume of the machine so as to avoid any potential for an overflow. This sounds a bit "Rube Goldberg", but it sure would beat carrying pails of hot water down the spiral staircase to the basement. I'm thinking along the lines of a small livestock watering tank, but don't know if I could withstand the misery from the other spousal unit eying such a hunk of steel.... although I haven't heard even one peep about that hideous-looking 40 gallon tank ever since she's been taking nice long leisurely showers as a result of it. I really should give the wrong impression: she's an incredibly good sport about nearly everything--especially all the nonsense I dream up. Perhaps I should Google around and look for a nicer looking LARGE stainless stock pot that has (or can be fitted) with a drain. Sounds industrial.
 
Don't those tanks sweat? Seems it would make an awful mess.
 
The very first time I filled the system with cold well water, both tanks sweat a tiny bit for a couple hours... and that that was it. We aren't using a large volume of hot water at any one time: I figure the most would be about 3 gallons. 3 gallons of ice cold well water going into a 40 gallon tank that is mostly at room temperature or slightly above---is not going to make the tank sweat. The refrigerator tank is being fed only room temperature water, so it's not going to sweat.

We are a family of sailors--and are used to being frugal with water usage... and really frugal with hot water.

Now, if we were trying to fill a Jacuzzi with hot water, those tanks would be sweating big time.
 
Re: the search for a large tank / stock pot for the laundry - try checking the various home-brew supply places, and / or commercial kitchen supply houses... I know the big pot is a staple item among the beer brewing community, especially those doing all-grain brewing...

"institutional" style kitchens - i.e. schools, prisons, hospitals, and other such places of torture, also tend to have / use large pots, so it can be worth hitting the places that supply them...

Gooserider
 
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