String Trimmer quit...

[Gooserider]

Not quite a wood gear question, but figure the chainsaw repair types might have some ideas...

I have a Ryobi 31cc engine trimmer / brush cutter that I purchased several years ago as a "factory recon" from HF tools.. Mostly I use it with the brush cutter blade to try and whack back the worst of the jungle around the house and pool whenever things got too thick (we aren't big on mowing) It hasn't seen all that much use, probably 3-4 tanks of gas / year...

It hasn't been trouble free... A couple years ago I had to replace the drive shaft because the "click-link" coupler wore out. Last year it died where the engine would run, but the blade wouldn't spin - I put it up then and just got it fixed, turned out to be the clutch and hub had gone... I just got the unit back a few days ago, and put ONE tank of gas through it... Had a hard time restarting, and the engine didn't want to accellerate to full speed, but I was able to get it to do so. Part way into the second tank, it died, then made grinding noises and the blade turned when I pulled the starter. I took it back to my OPE guy, who thought maybe the clutch had come loose and wanted to check it over.

I just picked up the "box-o-parts" - seems I had a more severe problem - the flywheel had not been properly secured to the crank for a far longer period than just the amount I'd used it after the repair (presumably from the factory), and had been wallowing on the shaft, chewing up both the aluminum flywheel hub and the steel crankshaft... Estimated cost to repair FAR exceeds replacement cost of new trimmer!

My OPE guy took the clutch back, and ate the labor on the job, to his credit (He is good that way, one reason we like using his shop!) and said that as far as he knew, there was no way to replace / repair the parts that would be cost effective. Looking at the parts, I'm inclined to agree, they are pretty ugly...

Anyone have any other suggestions for repair?

Failing that, reccomendations for a replacement?

Gooserider

 

[kevin j]

since it is junk anyway, it could be a learning project to use file, jbweld, etc etc just to see if it can be made running.

Personally I am at point in life of don't have time to do that any more, but I learned a whole lot in younger days fixing up junk cars, motorcycles, saws, anything mechanical. No substitue for tearing something apart....

who knows where the addiction goes, you might end up with a 'predator' or 'termite' weed whip !

k

 

[cmonSTART]

The Ryobi is probably not worth the headache. It's pretty much a disposable piece of equipment anyway. If it were me, I would just replace it.

As for replacement recommendations, here are my thoughts. If you're one who takes care of his equipment, go buy a decent one. I like the Sthil trimmers we have, but there are a lot of decent brands. Redmax, Shindaiwa, Husky are all Ok with me. Just remember to NEVER store them with gas in them for any amount of time

If you're one who, like me, just drops the trimmer on the barn floor, doesn't take care of it, and doesn't care about the dumb thing, buy the cheapest thing you can find and just use it until it dies.

 

[Gooserider]

since it is junk anyway, it could be a learning project to use file, jbweld, etc etc just to see if it can be made running.

Personally I am at point in life of don't have time to do that any more, but I learned a whole lot in younger days fixing up junk cars, motorcycles, saws, anything mechanical. No substitue for tearing something apart....

who knows where the addiction goes, you might end up with a 'predator' or 'termite' weed whip !

k

I would be tempted by that, except that the OPE guy kept the new clutch parts (about $30-40 worth of stuff) since I couldn't use them, and he could re-sell them to another customer... Thus assuming I could get the engine running, (possible - the crank and flywheel are chewed, but not totally destroyed) I'd still have to replace the clutch parts, and have something of dubious reliability...

Gooserider

 

[Gooserider]

The Ryobi is probably not worth the headache. It's pretty much a disposable piece of equipment anyway. If it were me, I would just replace it.

As for replacement recommendations, here are my thoughts. If you're one who takes care of his equipment, go buy a decent one. I like the Sthil trimmers we have, but there are a lot of decent brands. Redmax, Shindaiwa, Husky are all Ok with me. Just remember to NEVER store them with gas in them for any amount of time

If you're one who, like me, just drops the trimmer on the barn floor, doesn't take care of it, and doesn't care about the dumb thing, buy the cheapest thing you can find and just use it until it dies.

The guy I use said he liked Echo and the MTD/Troy-bilt four strokers... Sounds like any of the pro-brands may be OK... I'm sort of middling on taking care of stuff - I run good mix in my saws, check oil regularly on the mower and snowblower, etc. but probably don't do as good on some of the other maintainance...

Gooserider

 

[savageactor7]

Goose I've been a brush cutting sumbaste' since 6jun when I had wrist surgery which left my arm in a cast bent at the elbow.

I like to recommend the Husky 235R which I've used extensively for the last 15+ years. These 30 acres we occupy used to be like triple canopy jungle...seriously you had to get on your hands and knees to go into the woods. I've had many different brush blade attachments but my favorite is a yardvark saw blade...had it for 10 years by any standard it's shot but I touch up the points with my 7/32 and it's good for another 3 tanks of gas...today I cutting some 2" elm saplings.

Years ago I got rid of the real bad brush now I just touch up a section at a time to stay ahead of it...mostly it's one of a few things I can do outside when it raining. Now I use to to control invasive species and junk brush I don't want...I have never been so far ahead with my brush cutting. I'm so happy thanks to my Husky.

btw I have a 48" brush hog I can get threw the trees with but a couple of years ago I started noticing white oak trees so I've tagged 'em with engineer tape that's why I prefer using the weed whacker. Just say'en that Huskey has to have over 200hrs on it and never had a problem with it.

 

[begreen]

Sorry to hear about the hassles Goose. FWIW, I had this model weedeater. Every season after the first couple years I had to do the same repairs. It's a light duty pos. Get yourself a Stihl and you will never regret it. They run stronger, smoother and longer. The difference in vibration alone is huge. I've had mine now for 3 seasons and tons more hours than the Ryobi and it has not had a lick of problems. I love my Stihl.

Whatever you buy, get a pro product, one that is made to use all day long every day. You'll be happy you did. I now have the full body harness with the bicycle handles on the Stihl. Balancing the weight on the hip belt makes a huge difference in comfort.

PS: I also have an Echo leaf blower and have to admit it's a very smooth runner and always starts first pull of the cord.

 

[Redox]

When I was shopping, our dealer told me that Echo outsells Stihl by a large margin and he sold both brands. I know a few people in the landscape biz and they all run Echo. I ended up buying a flexible shaft trimmer (GT2000, I think) and the only thing I have had to replace in 10 years is the little primer bulb (in stock approx $5). Suprisingly, all the trimmer head parts are original and look like they might go another 10 years. It has never let me down and I think it was only about $140 at the time.

I've never been really impressed with anything MTD makes and since Troy sold out, welllll...

Just my .02

Chris

 

[tradergordo]

I bought the same unit, also reconditioned, from harbor frieght, for $40 (back in the glory days when they had crazy sales and also gave out 20% off coupons). First one had to be returned the next day (gas tank leaked - ouch, that could have been ugly). The one they gave me in exchange actually works great, I've had it for a couple years now. But seriously, if it started having problems I wouldn't spend more than I paid for it to have it fixed.

 

[Gooserider]

That is my conclusion as well... Based on comments both here and at Arboristsite (Who had much ruder things to say about Ryobi than the folks here) the GF and I have decided that a replacement unit is in order - this time a pro-grade unit.

Currently I'm inclined pretty strongly towards an Echo, since I've gotten lots of recomendations for them, and I like the fact that they have a 5 year warrantee for homeowner use... Not certain which model yet, or what dealer to go with - the Echo Dealer locator has given us about 20 listings between our home and Manchester NH...

Anyone know what the "real world" difference to the customer is between a regular Echo dealer and a "Signature Dealer"? Assuming the signature dealer costs more, (I haven't checked yet) how much extra is that worth?

Gooserider

 

[computeruser]

You should be pleased with the Echo units. They're a bit cold-blooded, but once they're warmed up they are an absolute pleasure to use. I've got an SRM260 that has been great in everything I've asked it to trim, including heavier stuff than a trimmer should be trimming. I rarely have need for my Stihl FS200 except where I need a blade. The SRM260 has been a pleasure to use, even when it is being run non-stop for hours trimming around tombstones at the old cemetery voluntarily I tend to. No vibration discomfort during or after use, and not even that much fatigue from the weight/bulk. And the ergonomics for me at 6' were much better with my Echo than my buddy's attachment-capable John Deere.

I'd probably suggest the 230 or 260/265 for general household trimming, unless you anticipate being in really heavy stuff a lot or want to run .105 line. I don't have experience with the new SRM265 and SRM285, but I can't see needing much more than the SRM26x machines for regular grass trimming. If you want to run a blade, consider the SRM 260/265 to be the absolute bare minimum for that kind of use.

I bought my SRM260 for $200, new in box, off eBay. I've had no need to deal with dealers, so I don't know what the "higher rated" dealer would offer you. Assuming it is like Stihl's Elite dealers, they may be an Echo-only shop versus a multi-brand shop. Probably not a real issue, unless the multi-brand shop has only a very minimal interest in Echo products and knows nothing about them. A quick walk through the shop will usually answer that question right quick. I do not believe that the dealer versus signature dealer distinction would have any impact whatsoever on price.

 

[Gooserider]

Thanks for the advice Computeruser... I actually do use a blade more often than I ever used string on the Ryobi. I don't really care all that much about the grass the mower can't reach, which is IMHO the string trimmer's prime job, however I have a lot of brushy areas under our trees that can rapidly turn into impassible jungle if I don't whack it back periodically. Currently I've been renting a "high weed mower" once a year or so to get the worst of it, but I think it would make sense to get a heavier brush cutter if that would let me skip the $80 / day equipment rental...

Looking at the Echo website, I'm seeing that big 400U unit with the 42.7cc engine, but that might well be overkill - however there seems to be a big gap between the SRM-400, and the next smaller unit, the SRM-311.

The 400 has a 25mm Arbor, and a rigid steel drive shaft, plus the big engine

The 311 has a much smaller engine - 30.5cc (the Ryobi was 31cc and was NOT overpowered!) and uses a 20mm Arbor and has a cable drive shaft - the same as all the smaller units...

The other difference I found interesting is that the 400 comes with a blade, the other units come with string heads, with the blade as an extra cost accessory.... I don't know if that is a sort of "message" or not, but...

Gooserider

 

[johnsopi]

I had a Ryobi weed eater. In the end I went in the trash with all the attachment, and I got a echo never looked back. Best weed eater I'ver ever owened all ways start up.

 

[computeruser]

Thanks for the advice Computeruser... I actually do use a blade more often than I ever used string on the Ryobi. I don't really care all that much about the grass the mower can't reach, which is IMHO the string trimmer's prime job, however I have a lot of brushy areas under our trees that can rapidly turn into impassible jungle if I don't whack it back periodically. Currently I've been renting a "high weed mower" once a year or so to get the worst of it, but I think it would make sense to get a heavier brush cutter if that would let me skip the $80 / day equipment rental...

Looking at the Echo website, I'm seeing that big 400U unit with the 42.7cc engine, but that might well be overkill - however there seems to be a big gap between the SRM-400, and the next smaller unit, the SRM-311.

The 400 has a 25mm Arbor, and a rigid steel drive shaft, plus the big engine

The 311 has a much smaller engine - 30.5cc (the Ryobi was 31cc and was NOT overpowered!) and uses a 20mm Arbor and has a cable drive shaft - the same as all the smaller units...

The other difference I found interesting is that the 400 comes with a blade, the other units come with string heads, with the blade as an extra cost accessory.... I don't know if that is a sort of "message" or not, but...

Gooserider

OK, now we're into different territory!

I don't know anything about those larger Echo models, so I'll speak to what I do know of in brush/grass cutters - Stihl. Their FS250 would do the job you're asking, and do it with ease. If the Echo 400 can run with the FS250, then you're all set - buy the trimmer, a comfortable harness, and set to work. Stihl FS130 would also be good choice, and it runs about $80 less than the FS250.

I wouldn't get bent out of shape over the 20 versus 25mm arbor, you can get good blades in both sizes. And I wouldn't care too much about the driveshaft unless I was going to be running a wood cutting blade (scratcher or chainsaw-like teeth); the grass and brush blades should not see the kind of sustained torque load on the driveshaft that you'd experience while gnawing through a tree trunk.

I guess at this point I'd want to see if the dealer had a demo machine or two that you could take out back and run in the weeds behind the shop...

 

[Gooserider]

Well, I guess one of the key questions is how much power a 31cc Ryobi engine is equal to in terms of an Echo or Stihl engine... I want to get at least as much oomph as the Ryobi had (not that much IMHO) and if the engines are about the same in power, then I'd need to get the SRM-311U to match, or the SRM-400U to beat it...

What I'd really love would be a "combination head" with a string trimmer on the bottom to get the easy stuff, and a brush blade above the strings to get whatever is still standing... I know from the few times I've tried using the string trimmer on the Ryobi, that it would get "most" of the weeds, but there was a remaining 10-20% that just didn't want to fall over, so I'd have to get the brush blade to deal with those... A combo would be ideal... gives the wider cut swath of the strings, and probably better cutting on grass and soft stem weeds, plus if it were on the bottom, giving a "bumper" to help keep from accidentally hitting the ground or other objects with the brush blade that can still get the bigger / tougher stems as needed...

Maybe I should invent something...

Gooserider

 

[savageactor7]

Goose I have many different blades for different kinds of brush but if your trimming grass around the house nothing beats the traditional grass trimming head with the nylon cord. Most have gotten away from the spool dispensers and go with the easy replaceable cut to length nylon cords with the clutch pack one way jaws...they work great and are no hassle at all. It doesn't even take 5 min to swap out attachments. The nylon wont dick up your foundation and sapling trees like the more heaverier duty brush attachments.

 

[Gooserider]

Goose I have many different blades for different kinds of brush but if your trimming grass around the house nothing beats the traditional grass trimming head with the nylon cord. Most have gotten away from the spool dispensers and go with the easy replaceable cut to length nylon cords with the clutch pack one way jaws...they work great and are no hassle at all. It doesn't even take 5 min to swap out attachments. The nylon wont dick up your foundation and sapling trees like the more heaverier duty brush attachments.

True if most of what I was cutting was around the house... Unfortuneately most of it isn't... The bulk of my cutting is in the yard out under the trees where I don't have lawn, and there is just "succession brush" growth. A mix of weeds, junk tree saplings, briars, etc... Mostly I try to keep it trimmed back to the point where it doesn't take over the lawn, or enroach on the house and pool overmuch, while leaving a lot of it natural for the sake of the privacy buffer it provides, along with wildlife habitat, honeybee forage, etc... As I said earlier, from my experience with the Ryobi, about 75% of it would be fine with the lines, but the rest is tough enough that the lines don't touch it, and I need a blade... Something that had both lines and a blade on it would be perfect. (I don't want to be swapping attachments to do the same job twice!)

Gooserider

 

[Gooserider]

Well the GF and I did some looking, and it sounds like we have somewhat narrowed our range of choices... However we'd like more input on our choices before we decide to spend money...

Part of the question is how the Echo engine power compares to that of the Ryobi. Our Ryobi is marked all over as being a 31cc engine. I found it to be OK, but not great in the heavy stuff, and while more power would be nice (isn't it always... :coolgrin: ) I could live with about the same power. However I wouldn't want any LESS than what I had.

With that as a given, we have narrowed things down to a few models / combinations...

1. Either the SRM311, or the SRM280 in a fixed shaft, with the decision as to getting the brush cutter model, and a string head - which gives the "bicycle handlebar" control, or the string trimmer model and a brush head, which gives the "D handle" controls.

2. The PAS260 split-shaft system powerhead, with the brush cutting and string trimmer attachments, and a "D handle" control.

While there is some cost difference between these setups, the difference isn't that large, and it seems justifiable if the needs are there...

First decision, it seems to me is the control setup - Bicycle handlebar, or D handle? The Ryobi had a handle setup that was more or less like the Echo "D handle" - I never had any real problem with it, it felt reasonably comfortable, and while I would sometimes get a little kickback when using the brush blade, I never felt like I wasn't in control of it. Picking up the two styles in the store, not running, and with no support harness, I felt more comfortable with the D handle, but that I had a little more control with the bicycle handle, even though it felt awkward.... Part of this may be from feeling used to the control on the Ryobi. The GF sort of likes the bicycle handle on the theory that it gives more control, but I'm inclined towards the D handle based on comfort (Note, the choice is mostly mine, as she won't be using the tool whichever one we get.) I guess what I'm asking is if there is any really good reason to prefer the bicycle handlebar style?

Second choice (assuming I go with the D-handle) is between the fixed shaft units and the PAS split shaft with the attachments... What worries me is that the PAS powerhead is only a 26cc engine - the Ryobi was a 31cc, which is almost a 20% difference, with the Echo on the short side... I like the interchangeable attachments concept, but I'm worried about whether the power will be adequate or not? (I wish Echo made a bigger powerhead...)

Third choice sort of makes itself, if I rule out the PAS setup for lack of power. If I go with the fixed shaft unit, do I want the 280 or the 311 - the cost difference is only about $20-30, so why go with the small engine?

Gooserider

 

[savageactor7]

Goose if you're going to use a saw blade to remove brush get the bicycle handled one...cause your not really sawing the brush your whacking the brush under power. Before I got the straight shaft Husky I had a D handle green machine, imo the handle bars are the better deal. Sometime when I'm cutting elder brush, which can have 5-7 1" stalks the handle bar provides the leverage to move the cut brush out of your face.

 

[Gooserider]

Just as an update... After additional looking, we reached the decision to go with the PAS system in order to get the interchangeable tool head feature... Saturday we picked up a PAS 265 powerhead with the brush cutter and string trimmer (bump head) attachments... Echo dealers are amazingly uniform in price, it seemed every dealer we called that sold them had the same price setup - though some said it was "On Sale" from a higher price marked down to the same everybody else was charging...

We ended up getting a slight break because the first place we went to, which had 4 in stock the day before when I called, had had a busy day and was sold out by the time we got there... So they sent us to another store in their chain and gave us about $40 off the package for our trouble...

I fired it up today for about 20 minutes with the string head, (loaded with the stock orange line) before I got chased back in by the rain... Mixed results - it had plenty of power, and started beautifully. The strings cut much better than I've seen with other string trimmers that I've used in the past, but I had a MAJOR problem with the strings breaking off flush with the head... Must have happened 10 times in 20 minutes, every time I started to tangle with anything very stout... When I'd pull the head apart, I found that the string on the spool appeared to have melted together a little bit, and / or pulled down under the outer layers of string... Is this something that better string would fix, or is it characteristic?

I also got pretty well covered with grass shmutz - was glad I was wearing my chainsaw helmet with the face shield...

Haven't tried the brush head yet, but I suspect it will do a good job.

Gooserider

 

[Redox]

Ya, cheap line, methinks. Also, you have to make sure it's wound tight around the spool or it tends to spin outward and rub against the other loops of line. It might also tend to retract back into the head if the spool is loose. Rewind it and try it again. Is it using .080 line?

Chris

 

[savageactor7]

Goose think about getting an 'Oregon Kwik loader' http://www.mowpart.com/kwik-loader-trimmer-head-commercial-p-5435.html

It'll fit an Echo plus about 25 other trimmers as well. It will hold many different diameters of trimming line...I just escalated from .095" to 130" line in my 3 line holder. Those auto line dispensers only work in perfect conditions otherwise a 15 minute job can triple up while ya play with the spool dispenser.

When your line gets short, you just pull out the old line from the center and insert the new line from the outside. When I trim grass I usually keep 9 cut pieces in my pocket...trimming such a pleasure now that we don't have to depend on an automatic dispenser. Use it one time and your throw your spool away...you'll just will never use it again.

btw did you go with the 'D' handle model?

 

[Gooserider]

Chris, I'm not sure what size the line is - it was whatever came on the head from Echo - I tried to keep the line wound tight, but it seemed that as soon as I let go of it, it would spring loose inside the head... It took me a while to even get the hang of how to put the center back in w/out it tangling and coming unwound. Who knows, I might even have to break down and read the manual to find out what to do about this. - Also kind of as expected, where I was having trouble was on the heavy stuff - grass didn't give me any trouble, but some of the bigger weeds, or saplings would. I'd get close and the line appeared to grab onto the thing and snap.

Savage, I had the choice of the quick load head or the bump head, (same price) and I thought the bump head would be better as my past experience w/ string trimmers was that the strings went really fast (which it was doing this afternoon) and I just couldn't see the time / expense of doing bunches of precut strings... I may look at getting thicker string when I get more, which may be soon if the stuff I have keeps going the way it is.

As to the model, I ended up with the D handle, with the stopper bar on it... The PAS setup units apparently all come with the D handle as the bicycle bars don't make sense for many of the accessories. As I said earlier, when I was waving them around in the store, I felt a lot clumsier with the bike bar than I did with the D handle... I tend to suspect that I'll do OK with the D as that is what I had on the Ryobi and it worked pretty well for me from a control standpoint.

Gooserider

 

[velvetfoot]

This is all too late, but I'll chime in that I got one of those Stihl 4 strokes that use the gas/oil mix.
It's been okay for me, but I don't use it much.
When I first got it I thought it was sputtering when using a blade.
The tech guy told me it was actually hitting the rev limiter!
Something to think about, as in more complexity, slower than a traditional 2 stroke.