Styrofoam & Steel Glue

[moondoggy]

Hey all,
happy new year!

making a slot car/train table and making a mountain of owens corning pink board.
I need to glue the sheets together. tested out: silicone , wood and elmers white, after 12 hrs the closest to drie/hard to separate is the silicone.... but still not really dry, perhaps i didnt wait long enough. but any ideas on a better styro-glue?
On the topic of glue, my fireplace tools are real nice but they wont stay screwed together no matter how hard i tighten.
and i need to tighten the handle or the tip of the poker everyother time i use it... can i glue it with something? like down in the shaft before i screw it toghter.....or again, any better idea.
thanks

 

[Corey]

Are you talking about that pink urethane foam board? If that's the case, I'd try some type of contact cement...something like 3M Super 77 if you like spray or Titebond 4636 if you like to paint it on and ruin a brush with every app. Just follow the mfr. instructions to bond, but usually, you'd apply a thin coat to both surfaces, let it tack up for 15-30 minutes, then as soon as the surfaces touch, they're bonded permanently.

For the fireplace tools, you could use some type of thread lock...most anything in the Loctite series (242, 271, 290) would work just fine.

 

[moondoggy]

cool Corey, thanks for the leads!
gonna look that stuff up now.

 

[wenger7446]

Form board: I have used a linoleum floor adhesive to glue blueboard together. I tried the 3M adhesives but the melt the board.

Fireplace tools: I would try LocTite. (www.useloctite.com). It can be found at Lowes or HD.

 

[myzamboni]

Ayuh,...

PL construction adhesive is available in a formula that's specfically For gluing Foam Board,...
I found it at Home Depot....

For your fireplace Tools,....
Take,+ Unscrew it, then with a hammer, Booger-up the threads, Slightly....
Then screw it back together....
The added resistence of the Boogered up threads should hold'em together....

Or use threadlock.

 

[moondoggy]

cool love options, and at now i now what to look for in HD.
thanks guys

 

[LLigetfa]

Use spray foam as adhesive or moisture cured urethane adhesive.

 

[Gooserider]

Most applications, I'd agree with the idea of using thread locking compound - note that it comes in several "flavors" depending on just how "permanent" you want the bond to be, and / or how much force you want to use to get the items apart...

The problem the OP has though is that he is wanting to fix the threads on his fireplace tools, which one can safely assume will be getting very hot on occasion. All the thread lock compounds I'm aware of will break down with heat - some specify torch heating as the way to disassemble them - so I don't think it's the right choice for the job...

IMHO the "bugger the threads" idea is probably the best approach given the use environment.

Gooserider

 

[LLigetfa]

Thread locking compound is fine at the handle end since it doesn't get hot. As for the threads and heat, the simplest is to smash the threads a bit so that it is a tight friction fit. Works a charm.

If the threads are too loose which is often, you can hammer a piece of copper wire flat and shove it in the threaded hole to take up some of the gap.

 

[velvetfoot]

I tried hot melt glue on some styrofoam for laughs.
Actually, I was thinking of using a hot melt gun for caulking in the rim joist cavities but gave up on that.
I think it works pretty good on stryofoam and there's a lot less muss and practically no wait.
They have two-temperature stuff, although the hot temp didn't melt the foam I was using.

 

[wenger7446]

Question: Don't they have Loctite that can be used when assembling engines and drivetrains, basically in high heat areas?

Just wondering.

 

[Gooserider]

Question: Don't they have Loctite that can be used when assembling engines and drivetrains, basically in high heat areas?

Just wondering.

Yes, but only for some definitions of "HOT" %-P it's a matter of degrees, litterally! Typically you will only see engine and drive train parts reaching 1-300 degrees or so, and that isn't a big problem for the locking compounds. OTOH you might well get a poker's business end up to glowing red temperatures, though most uses wouldn't get that hot... This is around 1100*F or so, which is much higher than the locking compounds can stand... I'm not taking the time to chase down the exact numbers, but my vague recollection is that even the toughest ones can supposedly be disassembled after heating to around 600*F - IOW, plenty of margin in a drive train, but not enough for a poker...

Gooserider

 

[myzamboni]

Loctite makes a 650F product. This should be fine unless your are trying to blacksmith your poker into something else. The 650F is for prolonged exposure. I don't know of anyone that leaves their poker in the fire long term.

 

[fabguy01]

Hey all,
happy new year!

making a slot car/train table and making a mountain of owens corning pink board.
I need to glue the sheets together. tested out: silicone , wood and elmers white, after 12 hrs the closest to drie/hard to separate is the silicone.... but still not really dry, perhaps i didnt wait long enough. but any ideas on a better styro-glue?
On the topic of glue, my fireplace tools are real nice but they wont stay screwed together no matter how hard i tighten.
and i need to tighten the handle or the tip of the poker everyother time i use it... can i glue it with something? like down in the shaft before i screw it toghter.....or again, any better idea.
thanks

there are special adhesives made special for foam board PL brand and locktite brand Home Depot, Lowes, Menards"