I am aware of, and try to follow, all the advice about drying time for wood.
However....
I had 13 trees taken down in the Spring. 6 were large sugar maple. They were bucked to 12 to 20 inch lengths, depending on diameter, left on their side in the wood, rolled slightly apart so air could get at the cut surfaces. I am on limestone with only a few inches of topsoil.
It rained all spring and summer, very few decent days, and the ticks were insane. Any time I stepped into the woods, I had ticks on me. So, other than the rounds closest to the road, the wood didn't get split until after the first snow. We had high winds often, as well as the high relative humidity (humidity often in the 70 to 95 % range since last winter).
To my surprise the newly split surfaces are reading between 15 and 25 % on the moisture meter, the vast majority under 20%. I am burning the uglies as I stack the straighter wood, and it is burning beautifully.
So, obviously in some circumstance wood can dry in the round.
However....
I had 13 trees taken down in the Spring. 6 were large sugar maple. They were bucked to 12 to 20 inch lengths, depending on diameter, left on their side in the wood, rolled slightly apart so air could get at the cut surfaces. I am on limestone with only a few inches of topsoil.
It rained all spring and summer, very few decent days, and the ticks were insane. Any time I stepped into the woods, I had ticks on me. So, other than the rounds closest to the road, the wood didn't get split until after the first snow. We had high winds often, as well as the high relative humidity (humidity often in the 70 to 95 % range since last winter).
To my surprise the newly split surfaces are reading between 15 and 25 % on the moisture meter, the vast majority under 20%. I am burning the uglies as I stack the straighter wood, and it is burning beautifully.
So, obviously in some circumstance wood can dry in the round.
