my baffle has a decent bend in it. went to the local stove shop yesterday and they told me it was junk and i needed a new one. i read a post by hogwildz and he said he bent his back the best he could by hand. sounds good to me thats what i was thinking. anyway its $225 and don't wanna spend that much when it could be fixed. als0 the "secondary air deflector plate?" came of it seems the nut came off somehow this is bent also. heres some pics let me know what you think
super 27 baffle
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It's kind of hard to see in the picture. Is that a hole in the plate or a blanket clip? If a hole, that doesn't look good.
How old is the stove and plate? Just wondering if this is a warranty item?
How old is the stove and plate? Just wondering if this is a warranty item?
rich81 said:
Hmmm... From the PE website:
Lifetime Coverage
Limited lifetime coverage is extended to the following components (parts only) porcelain finish, glass, gold plating, firebox and baffle.
5 Year Comprehensive
Pacific Energy will replace any part found to be defective (parts and labor) for five years from the date of purchase. This coverage includes electrical components (blowers, speed controls and thermal switches).
If your dealer says its not under warranty I would call the company. That should be covered. If it's not I'm taking my Summit back. LOL
Todd
Minister of Fire
The stove is only 2 years old? What did you burn in there? Lumber scraps? Looks like its been overfired? Maybe that is why dealer stated it wasn't covered?
laynes69
Minister of Fire
My baffle in my wood furnace was warped worse than that, but it was 20 years old. I took it into a local fabrication shop where they put it in a press and welded reinforcements on it so it wouldn't warp again. I had that done, and had a baffle support made with a 3/16 plate and it cost me 60.00 I had the welder, So I tore it apart and rebuilt it. If there is a weak spot, or hole replace it. If its thin I wouldn't think about repairing it due to the fact of the high temps. If it needs replaced and the stove mfg won't warrant it. Have a new one made. That is some pretty serious warping if its only 2 years old. I would go over the rest of the stove to make sure things are okay. Better safe than sorry.
Todd said:
the stove was overfired. my better half used to leave the damper wide open quite often before should would go to bed and forget about it until a few ours later when i came home. the rest of the stove is fine no warping of anything else,, stove itself is not all white on the outside like others i've seen. took fire brick out and everything looked ok. can i save this?? i like the idea of bringing it to a machine shop
Corie
Minister of Fire
I would say, no, that baffle is not savable. Warped WAY beyond repair. Sorry to say you're going to have to plunk the money down for a replacement part from the manufacturer. Replacing that baffle with something made locally would void the safety and emissions listings of the stove.
I hate to say it that way, but its true. You need to order a new baffle and be A LOT more careful the next time around.
I hate to say it that way, but its true. You need to order a new baffle and be A LOT more careful the next time around.
Gooserider
Mod Emeritus
rich81 said:
Replace the baffle, hand bill to "better half" along with copy of stove manual operating instructions and warranty w/ "Void if Overfired" part highlighted....
Gooserider
kevin fitzsimmons
New Member
Hi all, i have a question for any super 27 owners. I have just installed one that replaces a vc non-cat dutchwest. I am getting stove and flu temps around 500, and find i am running with the air control pretty much in the off position. I am unable to completely choke off the burn (not that i really want to) and when putting a fresh load of wood on hot coals i find that even with the air off it want to go. I have had the brick rails start to glow, while the stove top and gas temsp were not really that hot 600-700. Have any other users encountered this? I did a dollar bill (well actually a fiver, smallest bill we have up here). I was able to pull the bill out, but there was resistance. No way i could push it in, or move it sidways for any distance without ripping it.
jqgs214
Minister of Fire
For whats its worth my brand new PE Pacific insert (same firebox as the super27) already has a slight warp to the baffle. Mine is and upward cupping of the rear edge. Opinions if I should bend her back (most likely can) or burn her this season. Keep in mind I have only had 3 break in fires so far. Maybe she'll straighten out?
I just went through the same thing with my Century stove. 5 year warranty on the stove, however the claim was denied due to overfiring. I installed a thermometer in the flue and am finding out I was overfiring it. I fabricated my replacement out of 3/8 plate, the original ceramic blanket, and a piece of stainless for the top. As far as voiding the warranty, if they aren't going to stand behind it anyway I can't see what difference it makes. If the baffle is made to the original specs with the same size material, it should be fine IMO.
kevin fitzsimmons
New Member
Wxman, this is not really what i want to hear. Do you any trouble controlling the draft on your PE?
Gunner
New Member
kevin fitzsimmons
New Member
Basement stove , outside chimney (i know, i know, evil but is what i have). The inside potion is double wall, for ~ 4feet, then 90 out the wall, then into double wall stainless insulated. My thought are tending toward this chimney being tall (>20 feet) and drawing to much. I have ordered and inline damper, but really hate to ue one if not needed. Last night i was able to keep the top at 500, the flue at 450, with the air off. Perhaps i have to lean what fuel loads works well wit this new setup.
It seems to be a common thing with the PE's. I have a summit and had about 10 fires in it and it has the same bend as waxmans. I run my stove between 400 and 600 degrees so overfiring is not a problem. I 'm just going to wait until the end of the year to see what happens. Any othe rSummits have the same problem. If it stays bent at the end of the year I'm calling the company or if it gets worse I'm calling them soon. Other than that the stove is working great.
Suggestion make the call now get on record you have a concern, especially with so few fires. I would do this ,so the record showed the time of the concern and not later, when claims might be dismissed due to over firing.
BTW what is the cost to replace the warped part?
BTW what is the cost to replace the warped part?
Gunner
New Member
500 deg is not a hot stove.....350-400 stovetop is about as low as you can go for any extended period of time and still have a nice clean burn.
What type of wood are you burning?
It may just be you have a really good draft, but one place to check is the stovepipe at the collar connection. The PE's can be attached to double wall with a special stovepipe adaptor ( which in my opinion are prone to leak) or by slipping the DW on directly with the stove collar inbetween the inner and outer layer of pipe. Which method are you using?
What type of wood are you burning?
It may just be you have a really good draft, but one place to check is the stovepipe at the collar connection. The PE's can be attached to double wall with a special stovepipe adaptor ( which in my opinion are prone to leak) or by slipping the DW on directly with the stove collar inbetween the inner and outer layer of pipe. Which method are you using?
kevin fitzsimmons
New Member
Elk, I don't know what the replacement cost is for this stove part, but likely not cheap. I talked with PE and they were not a great deal of help, only to say that you shouldn't over fire. I should call back with more details of what i have ruled out and then go from there. I am burning pine, spruce and aspen. Not the best, but all that available. With regards to the flu collar, i have a conector that connects the double wall to the flu. this is not much more than a crimped band that the double wall sits on. If this joint is leaking wouldn't that spoil the draft. Much like a vacuum hose with a hole in it=less suction?
Stove companies don't seem to like to answer baffle related questions it appears. I asked one about the baffle on the 30-NC twice last winter and repeated it during the summer and there is a deafening silence on the subject. Not warping since it is fiber board, though it does "bow", but a question of the two boards moving apart leaving a straight shot up the pipe for some of the gases before they get a chance to burn. Looks like I have to try a solution of my own this season.
Good luck with PE guys.
Good luck with PE guys.
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