super 27 baffle

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No problems controlling fire so far. At most the gap where it rest in the back is 1/4". Since I dont have an "official dealer" (see the other very long winded threads on how I got my PE) I'll contact the distibutor. Calling Jack of BAC Sales calling JACK to the forum!!
 
Nof60 said:
Elk, I don't know what the replacement cost is for this stove part, but likely not cheap. I talked with PE and they were not a great deal of help, only to say that you shouldn't over fire. I should call back with more details of what i have ruled out and then go from there. I am burning pine, spruce and aspen. Not the best, but all that available. With regards to the flu collar, i have a conector that connects the double wall to the flu. this is not much more than a crimped band that the double wall sits on. If this joint is leaking wouldn't that spoil the draft. Much like a vacuum hose with a hole in it=less suction?

Nof60 you are using a stovepipe adaptor to connect to the DW. I had the same thing and do to the installers not sealing it right I had a leak at the stove collar. It caused the stove to run hot as air was being fed right ontop of the baffle. I sealed it up and all is good since. The adaptor is not really need as the stove collar can fit right between the two layers of pipe.
 
Nof60 said:
I have had the brick rails start to glow, while the stove top and gas temsp were not really that hot 600-700. Have any other users encountered this?

Yeah, the brick rails on our Summit glow too, while low-firing. The baffle glows red also, but it hasn't hurt it too much. It's a tiny bit warped, but still works fine. The shop where we bought ours will give me a new baffle if it gets too bad, so I'm not too worried.
 
I dunno what you guys are doing, but there is no way the brick rails should be glowing. Ive had my Summit up to 800 degrees and no glowing.
First off, Check your doors with dollar bill. Secondly, do not confuse the s.s. heat shield over the ceramic blanket on top of the baffle as part of the baffle. It is only a heat shield clipped on over the blanket. Yes Mine bowed, I pulled it off and straightened. Didn't really need to, but had it out anyways.
As far as the baffle, yes it will bow slightly as you have a wide expansion of metal expanding and contracting as it is heated and cooled. Mine ever so slightly bows, but does not effect performance. As with any baffle, your going to have some expansion. Whether its a baffle plate setup., or tubes or ceramic. Some rot out, some get clogged, some bow, some break. Several of you admitted to over firing your stoves. Don't blame the baffle or manufacturer for damage caused by human error.
I am not trying to sound harsh, and hope you don't take it that way. But if your OL is overfiring the stove, tell her to stay the f away from it. Unless she wants to shell out the bucks for new parts or a new stove. Those photos show definite overfiring. Again, the plate on top over the blanket you see is not the baffle, it is a heat shield, and there is another on the inside of the stove top. Is that what the single pc of s.s. is laying in the picture? Take that off and see what the baffle itself looks like.. If its shot, get a welder to make you a new one. Cause if overfired, your stove warranty is spent anyways. And if you do, try having him make the baffle out of a lil thicker stainless and see how that works. I would have one made and have the fabricator add a couple long rails in the center of the baffle to help support that wide expansion of metal. Or let the OL pay for the new one and tell her each time she forgets to cut the air down to start saving for the next one.
You have to remember, although some of us are lucky enough to heat all or alot of our homes with these stoves, they are SPACE heaters, and not furnaces!!!!!!
 
Hog,

Yeah mine is slightly bowed. ANd it is installed and I can see it on the bottom back half so its deinitly part of the baffle. No way its been overfired. just 3 break ins.
 
wxman said:
Hog,

Yeah mine is slightly bowed. ANd it is installed and I can see it on the bottom back half so its deinitly part of the baffle. No way its been overfired. just 3 break ins.
Mine is same after a last seasons burn. If is working as should, which mine is, don't sweat it. If what your seeing is along the back bottom line, the corners are raised up a lil, mine is same. The center has a very slight belly down. But still works as should. Wasn't insinuating you specifically overfired bro, but at least a couple folks had admitted to it.
 
mines bowed opposite of yours, slightly up in the middle corners are down. Havent had a real good fire in her except breaking in to see if she's performing. So far I had a little trouble getting secondaries to roll well but never had a long fire with a real good bed of coals either.
 
I know that this will vary with each users set up, but with a good bed of coals and a fresh piece or two of wood i find i am running the pe with the air control in the lowest position. At this point i have some good rolling flames a stack with absolutely no smoke. The temp tends to creep up, (stack up to ~500 20inches from flu collar). I am not really worried about the thing running away, but i do wonder if others are finding this, or can you choke the fire down from any head of stream when you cut the Air.
 
i ended up fixing the baffle and heatshield in about 20 minutes with my dad bent her back to just about new and working perfectly fine now secondary is working great,
 
There are two seperate topics here really....rich who's wife overfired his stove repeatedly an Nof60 who is getting used to a new stove.

Nof60, since this is a new stove to you there will be a bit of a learning curve. Did you check the stove collar to DW connection? You did the dollar bill test which is good and if you had resistance all the way around and your glass is staying clean we can rule out the door. It may not hurt to tighten up the door a wee bit (by tapping in on the catch attached to the stovebody) every now and then for the first few months. Keep in mind if the stove is new the door may need to be adjusted a few times as the gaskets compress and seat themselves.

It is best to burn wood in cycles and not add a couple pieces at a time. I always load atleast 3 pieces (2 on bottom 1 on top) and control how much heat I need by the species and size of those 3 pieces. Doing what I call HOT RELOADS is going to cause the temp to spike... that is the nature of the beast, try letting the stove cool abit (300 stovetop) before starting a new load. Also avoid splitting your wood real small. 3-4"dia and less to me is kindling. Once your burning 24/7 and have perma coals big wood will give you more control and longer burns.

It may not be what your used to but 500 deg is NOT an overly hot stove, 600 is round about perfect IMO but you must run to the heat level you need within reason.

The damper will help tho...but unless your getting stovetop temps north of 750deg I would not worry about it. I installed one before I found out it was my collar connection that was leaking, now it's there and I rarely use it. I have 24ft of chimney, all but the last 6ft inside the house.
Living with uberdraft I almost always have my air shut down all the way once the wood is charred.

Another important thing is knowing when to start cutting back the air when charring a new load...the blanket statement of letting it char for XX amount of mins doesn't work. Watch the wood and the thermo. If you desire 500 stovetop, start cutting it back at around 350. As long as you maintaining active flame you are good. Don't let it get too far ahead of you thinking you can bring it back down, this is possible with OK or marginal draft but not in your case. Draft is the engine, and each installation can be unique. Good luck, I'm sure you'll get the hand of it.
 
Thanks Gunner, I have to learn this stove, then i need my wife to lean as she is home durring the day. What i should really focus on is opening day of whitetail next week.
 
I am leaving in 5min for a afternoon crossbow hunt. I have 2 tags to fill. Going to be sitting with the gypsy moths in a 40" oak tree on the edge of a soybean field.
 
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