Super 27 door

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westkywood

Feeling the Heat
Oct 14, 2009
420
Kentucky
I've used my Super 27 stove for 1 year. The door passed the dollar bill test when I first got the stove. This year the bill is loose near the latch but tight near the hinges. The gasket looks good to me, but I know looks aren't everything. The door has always latched much easier when the stove is cold but as it heats up, the latch gets much tighter so I'm thinking maybe it will seal tighter when it is hot. . I understand the "heat expands thing ).
Is it more likely I need a new gasket rather than a door adjustment? If I need to adjust the door, how do I go about doing that. Thanks in advance.
 
westkywood said:
I've used my Super 27 stove for 1 year. The door passed the dollar bill test when I first got the stove. This year the bill is loose near the latch but tight near the hinges. The gasket looks good to me, but I know looks aren't everything. The door has always latched much easier when the stove is cold but as it heats up, the latch gets much tighter so I'm thinking maybe it will seal tighter when it is hot. . I understand the "heat expands thing ).
Is it more likely I need a new gasket rather than a door adjustment? If I need to adjust the door, how do I go about doing that. Thanks in advance.

What does your manual say about door adjustment?
That's the FIRST place to look.
Some wood stoves use washers between the latching mechanism & the door body.
If yours has more than one washer, take one out & see if that makes a difference.
Gaskets usually don't fail after one year of burning, but there are ALWAYS exceptions....
 
I did look in my manual first and also looked online to no avail. There are no washers.
 
westkywood said:
I've used my Super 27 stove for 1 year. The door passed the dollar bill test when I first got the stove. This year the bill is loose near the latch but tight near the hinges. The gasket looks good to me, but I know looks aren't everything. The door has always latched much easier when the stove is cold but as it heats up, the latch gets much tighter so I'm thinking maybe it will seal tighter when it is hot. . I understand the "heat expands thing ).
Is it more likely I need a new gasket rather than a door adjustment? If I need to adjust the door, how do I go about doing that. Thanks in advance.

I was going to post a new thread but I think this is similar enough to post here I believe I have the same firebox as westkywood's:

My brand new T5 is very tight with dollar bill test on bottom and door latch side (can't pull without ripping) - but top and hinge sides the dollar pulls out relatively easy. By that I mean there is some resistance but not much. I've searched several posts and didn't see anything about how much resistance there should be. And why would there be so much more resistance on the bottom and left (latch) side? I'm also getting some soot on the bottom and left side of the glass and it didn't seem like I could shut down the air enough until I put some foil tape over the primary air inlet. Does this sound like a warranty issue? No indication of how to adjust for door leakage in the Manual.
 
When I first got my stove the dollar bill would not come out at all. There doesn't seem to be an issue with it as far as the fire goes. No run away fires. Tonight I've got a fire going ( second fire this season ) and the door isn't as tight, once its hot, as it was last year.
 
I've only had a few fires in my Super 27 but the door passed the dollar bill test all the way around when I first got it. Will have to check it again after a good number of fires.
 
This year the bill is loose near the latch but tight near the hinges. The gasket looks good to me, but I know looks aren’t everything. If I need to adjust the door, how do I go about doing that. Thanks in advance.

All PE models except the Alderlea series ship without the door on, so some adjustment is usually necessary when you first hang the door. To adjust tightness, open the door and tap lightly on the hasp (at the left side of the opening) with a hammer, closing the door on a dollar bill to test for snugness and repeating as needed until you feel a slight resistance when you tug the bill all the way around the perimeter.

Note the qualifyer "slight" resistance. PE is now using a graphite impregnated, low-compression gasket which makes a seal at extremely low pressure. If the bill doesn't slide out when you let go, your door seal should be tight enough.

My brand new T5 is very tight with dollar bill test on bottom and door latch side (can’t pull without ripping) - but top and hinge sides the dollar pulls out relatively easy. By that I mean there is some resistance but not much.

The Alderlea models ship with the doors already on, and they usually don't need initial adjustment. As mentioned above, the "some resistance" you feel is probably sufficient to indicate you're getting a seal. However, metal expansion/contraction and gasket compression over time can loosen the seal. To tighten, tap lightly on the metal tab the handle interfaces with, testing as described above until you feel slight resistance all the way around.

Nothing lasts forever, and even the new gasket material will lose graphite and flatten out over time. If you can't make a satisfactory adjustment, replace the gasket.
 
thechimneysweep said:
This year the bill is loose near the latch but tight near the hinges. The gasket looks good to me, but I know looks aren’t everything. If I need to adjust the door, how do I go about doing that. Thanks in advance.

All PE models except the Alderlea series ship without the door on, so some adjustment is usually necessary when you first hang the door. To adjust tightness, open the door and tap lightly on the hasp (at the left side of the opening) with a hammer, closing the door on a dollar bill to test for snugness and repeating as needed until you feel a slight resistance when you tug the bill all the way around the perimeter.

Note the qualifyer "slight" resistance. PE is now using a graphite impregnated, low-compression gasket which makes a seal at extremely low pressure. If the bill doesn't slide out when you let go, your door seal should be tight enough.

My brand new T5 is very tight with dollar bill test on bottom and door latch side (can’t pull without ripping) - but top and hinge sides the dollar pulls out relatively easy. By that I mean there is some resistance but not much.

The Alderlea models ship with the doors already on, and they usually don't need initial adjustment. As mentioned above, the "some resistance" you feel is probably sufficient to indicate you're getting a seal. However, metal expansion/contraction and gasket compression over time can loosen the seal. To tighten, tap lightly on the metal tab the handle interfaces with, testing as described above until you feel slight resistance all the way around.

Nothing lasts forever, and even the new gasket material will lose graphite and flatten out over time. If you can't make a satisfactory adjustment, replace the gasket.

Thanks Tom. Closing the door takes a considerable amount of force already. I think tapping on the tab will only make it worse. Sounds like I'll just have to live with it being a little looser fit on the top and left side. I'm just not entirely sure it's not leaking air. Is there a way to test for small air leaks around the door?
 
Thanks Tom. I almost took a hammer to the hasp but decided to wait to see what info I got on here. The dollar slips out pretty easily near the latch, and the latch doesnt have much resistance when latching it closed, so I do believe the hasp could use a light tap. Thanks again.
 
MinnesotaGuy said:
Thanks Tom. Closing the door takes a considerable amount of force already. I think tapping on the tab will only make it worse. Sounds like I'll just have to live with it being a little looser fit on the top and left side. I'm just not entirely sure it's not leaking air. Is there a way to test for small air leaks around the door?

Get a good fire cranking in the stove and light an incense stick. Be very still and slowly move the incense stick around the opening of the door. If it looks like the smoke is trying to go through the seams, you have a leak.
 
MinnesotaGuy said:
thechimneysweep said:
This year the bill is loose near the latch but tight near the hinges. The gasket looks good to me, but I know looks aren’t everything. If I need to adjust the door, how do I go about doing that. Thanks in advance.

All PE models except the Alderlea series ship without the door on, so some adjustment is usually necessary when you first hang the door. To adjust tightness, open the door and tap lightly on the hasp (at the left side of the opening) with a hammer, closing the door on a dollar bill to test for snugness and repeating as needed until you feel a slight resistance when you tug the bill all the way around the perimeter.

Note the qualifyer "slight" resistance. PE is now using a graphite impregnated, low-compression gasket which makes a seal at extremely low pressure. If the bill doesn't slide out when you let go, your door seal should be tight enough.

My brand new T5 is very tight with dollar bill test on bottom and door latch side (can’t pull without ripping) - but top and hinge sides the dollar pulls out relatively easy. By that I mean there is some resistance but not much.

The Alderlea models ship with the doors already on, and they usually don't need initial adjustment. As mentioned above, the "some resistance" you feel is probably sufficient to indicate you're getting a seal. However, metal expansion/contraction and gasket compression over time can loosen the seal. To tighten, tap lightly on the metal tab the handle interfaces with, testing as described above until you feel slight resistance all the way around.

Nothing lasts forever, and even the new gasket material will lose graphite and flatten out over time. If you can't make a satisfactory adjustment, replace the gasket.

Thanks Tom. Closing the door takes a considerable amount of force already. I think tapping on the tab will only make it worse. Sounds like I'll just have to live with it being a little looser fit on the top and left side. I'm just not entirely sure it's not leaking air. Is there a way to test for small air leaks around the door?

Gently pry out on the "hask" to loosen. Tap to tighten.

I just glanced at the online manual for the super 27 and i believe the door is hinged on pins, so there would be no easy adjustment of the door on the hinge side-- unlike the alderlea's which has three adjustable bolts holding the hinge to the stove body.
 
BurnIt13 said:
MinnesotaGuy said:
Thanks Tom. Closing the door takes a considerable amount of force already. I think tapping on the tab will only make it worse. Sounds like I'll just have to live with it being a little looser fit on the top and left side. I'm just not entirely sure it's not leaking air. Is there a way to test for small air leaks around the door?

Get a good fire cranking in the stove and light an incense stick. Be very still and slowly move the incense stick around the opening of the door. If it looks like the smoke is trying to go through the seams, you have a leak.



Thanks, I'll try. I really dont think air is getting in and if it is , its gotta be very minimal...
 
Get a good fire cranking in the stove and light an incense stick. Be very still and slowly move the incense stick around the opening of the door. If it looks like the smoke is trying to go through the seams, you have a leak.

Warning: do NOT get your "incense stick" from Pook. You'll never find out if your door leaks. Or where all the Oreos, ice cream and chips went.
 
westkywood said:
BurnIt13 said:
MinnesotaGuy said:
Thanks Tom. Closing the door takes a considerable amount of force already. I think tapping on the tab will only make it worse. Sounds like I'll just have to live with it being a little looser fit on the top and left side. I'm just not entirely sure it's not leaking air. Is there a way to test for small air leaks around the door?

Get a good fire cranking in the stove and light an incense stick. Be very still and slowly move the incense stick around the opening of the door. If it looks like the smoke is trying to go through the seams, you have a leak.



Thanks, I'll try. I really dont think air is getting in and if it is , its gotta be very minimal...

Sorta doubt this will be that sensitive of a test with all the convective air movement around the stove, but, after the stove is cranking, i would add to the suggestion to close the primary air completely prior to lighting the "incense".

Jeez, just imagine the scene: secondaries flaring, incense burning, grateful dead blaring out the speakers. you'll never remember where the incense smoke went afterwords....
 
Next thing you know you have a bong called The Super 27.
 
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