Synthetic oil in Splitters engine?

What is a good Synthetic oil to run in my Splitters engine?
I do have a small weep/crack in the bottom of case.

Thanks
Sean

I run Amsoil in everything I own and the fleet I manage as well, except during break in. The only exception is the 2 cycle oil I mix into the diesel for my truck. That gets Walmarts cheapest TC-W3.

I run Rotella T6 5W-40 in just about all my OPE anymore. You can get a gallon jug at Wally World for $20.

Many of my small engines specify synthetic 5W-30 in their manuals for the widest range of operating temperatures. I get Mobil1 5W-30 when it's on sale.

Here's the recommendation excerpted from the Briggs & Stratton manual that came with my 2009 Huskee splitter:

2 cycle diesel? That you have to add oil to? Never heard of such a thing....

You don't have too but it helps lube the pump and engine internals . This modern day low sulpher diesel is crap.
I run canola in all my diesels.
OP- My experience with synthetics is if you have a leak now it will become worse when you switch to synthetic. I've tried synthetics in a few pieces of equipment I own and was not impressed with results.

Mobil 1 5-30 goes into all of my small engines, including the splitter.

Total agreement on syn making leaks worse. Was gonna say 5-30 Mobil one otherwise .

So before I switch to Synthetic, should I add some mystery oil, and then change it after it's run hot?

Well, the "leak" will leak more with synthetics because they are designed to be of the same molecule size and move about more freely (i.e., lube better). Problem is that they will also move through a crack or bad seal just as freely. If the loss of synthetic ends up being significant, it isn't because the crack got bigger, just that the oil goes through it easier.

Fabs is right. Synthetic will flow through a crack or bad seal faster. Just one of many things it does better than dino oil.

AMSOIL ASE 10W30 Synthetic in everything (4-cycle) I own, Saber Professional for all the 2-cycles.

If your case is cracked Sean, you gotta ask, is the engine worth the extra $$ for synthetic? I'd think about draining the existing oil, patching up that crack, and then go synthetic.

Its not bad just a little weeping once in a while.
It's like when you burned oil in the old engines, you filled the oil and checked the gas!!
Makes you check the level more often which is good!

I run royal purple .

Your supposed to change the oil?

If you add a quart over the year isn't that just like changing it?

Synthetic is a superior lubricant. Over the lifetime of most any engine ownership, it will extend the service life of the motor.

The manager of our local TSC store (aka This Stuff's Chinese) told me when I was looking at one of their splitters to run it normally for 2 hours and do an oil change, run it for 8 hours and do another this time with synthetic. Guess the reasoning is to limit the exposure of oil borne filings and have it pretty much broke in before going to the super slippery stuff.

I used to do that as well but I've found that it's too thick for winter use. It was bad enough in my garden tractor that the govener wouldn't work and it would rev the engine to the moon till the oil warmed up a bit. Exactly what I wanted... that 20hp Briggs spinnign to 10 grand at -25*

For small engines I generally don't get fussy. Oil level is ok and not 15 years old, good enough for me.

-25 and I have to worry more about the operator functioning than the equipment.

Eh, just means it's time to get the winter coat out of the closet.

What oil do you use for winter use then? A zero weight like 0w-30? Had no idea that Rotella was synthetic. Me, I pretty much use Mobil 1 in everything. F350, Mustang, Taurus, Focus, John Deere Z445, and what little I need in the splitter. Don't even have conventional oil in the garage anywhere. For the 2 stroke stuff, I use Stihl HP Ultra but am now thinking about buying a gallon of that stuff and being done with it for the next 20 years.

T6 is the syn version.