taking ownership of a Jotul Firelight Model 12

[Ashful]

She's a beaut! Does it have a top-load door, or is the non-cat hardware in the way? I'd be interested to see the right side, back, and inside, if you have the time.

 

[MaggiesFarm]

Several of us feel the way you do, and so I discussed this with Mark at Jotul, a tech who has been the company since they were still producing the Firelight 12. He agreed that it is one of the best stoves they ever made, but said that the reason for discontinuing actually had nothing to do with the design of the stove, and everything to do with getting the average consumer to run a catalytic stove without problems. Apparently, their number of service calls due to improper use or maintenance was much higher on this stove, than on any of their non-catalytic stoves. Also, there is an incorrect public perception that catalytic stoves are somehow troublesome or inferior to non-catalytic stoves, which I guess they found easier to join than fight. These were the reasons he gave me for Jotul getting out of the catalytic stove business.

Contrast that to those here, most of whom will admit that catalytic technology does build the superior heater, but the folks here at hearth.com are the exception. It's difficult to get the average consumer to even read the instruction manual.

Well, I'm one of those numbnuts that didn't read the instructions - properly. I just found this forum after wondering about the longevity of my catalytic converter, when I realized that I've been running my woodburner incorrectly since I bought it in 1993. The thing is I read the instructions, but having grown up with a wood burner, I must have thought I knew more than I actually did. Somehow I was thinking that a damper must always be open! I completely missed the point of the bypass damper and have been running the woodburner with the bypass open for 16 years. I never closed it to redirect to the catalytic converter, and I run my burner 24/7 during the winter months. I had to reread the instructions several times to convince myself that I was doing it wrong. I take pride in my woodburner, my logging and splitting, so it pains me to admit this.

So, when I got home today, I followed the instructions to the letter and, with the bypass damper now closed, the fire is burning away - not as hot as I would like, though. The front and top doors are shut as is the bypass damper (after I got the fire burning nice and hot), but now the fire is burning fairly slowly and not as hot as I would like, even with the air control in the full open position. I'm wondering if I have to start from scratch and buy a new catalytic converter. I haven't actually checked the catalytic converter yet and will have to wait a few days before I can shut down the burner to do it. Also, the rear plate is cracked and there is a significant gap - presumably from burning too hot?

If anyone has advice or words of wisdom on where to get a new backplate inexpensively and a new catalytic converter, I'd appreciate it. - call me humbled!

 

[Ashful]

Wow... 20 years! Better late than never.

The rear burn plate (the small piece with the seashell pattern cast on it) is roughly $65, and can be had at your local Jotul dealer, or from http://www.woodmanspartsplus.com/. Yep... time to pull your cat, and see what's left of it! Burning with the cat, you'll enjoy a clean chimney, and 12 hour burn times from that stove. I'm not sure how hot you were burning it before, but I typically have it cruising with the stovetop between 350F - 450F. It can also cruise a long time at 550F - 600F stovetop, but then expect burn times to be perhaps halved (I've not tried running this hot for more than a few hours, myself).

These old 12's can be a little tricky to get the cat lit off, and so it's very likely that's why you're seeing disappointing performance, with your first attempt. Really, you need a catalytic probe thermometer to know what's going on, as well as a simple stove-top thermometer. It's taken me two years to (just recently) get a system down to where I'm happy with getting fairly consistent light-offs. You can read about it in the following thread, post 21 being where I finally joined the enlightened: https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/achieving-lift-off-in-the-downdraft-cat.116507/

Dry wood is a huge factor, and something I'm still struggling with. I'm burning mixed hardwoods (mostly Walnut and Ash), split and stacked last Thanksgiving, so 1 year seasoned. That's much better than where I was last year, but the wood is still not dry enough to get easy and fast light-offs. Most recommend 2 - 3 years, split and stacked.

 

[MaggiesFarm]

Wow... 20 years! Better late than never.

The rear burn plate (the small piece with the seashell pattern cast on it) is roughly $65, and can be had at your local Jotul dealer, or from http://www.woodmanspartsplus.com/. Yep... time to pull your cat, and see what's left of it! Burning with the cat, you'll enjoy a clean chimney, and 12 hour burn times from that stove. I'm not sure how hot you were burning it before, but I typically have it cruising with the stovetop between 350F - 450F. It can also cruise a long time at 550F - 600F stovetop, but then expect burn times to be perhaps halved (I've not tried running this hot for more than a few hours, myself).

These old 12's can be a little tricky to get the cat lit off, and so it's very likely that's why you're seeing disappointing performance, with your first attempt. Really, you need a catalytic probe thermometer to know what's going on, as well as a simple stove-top thermometer. It's taken me two years to (just recently) get a system down to where I'm happy with getting fairly consistent light-offs. You can read about it in the following thread, post 21 being where I finally joined the enlightened: https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/achieving-lift-off-in-the-downdraft-cat.116507/

Dry wood is a huge factor, and something I'm still struggling with. I'm burning mixed hardwoods (mostly Walnut and Ash), split and stacked last Thanksgiving, so 1 year seasoned. That's much better than where I was last year, but the wood is still not dry enough to get easy and fast light-offs. Most recommend 2 - 3 years, split and stacked.

Thanks so much for the advice. Yes, 20 (I stand corrected) years is a long time. I'm waiting until the holiday break to try to pull the rear plate and check the catalytic converter. It seems to be running well again. I have good dry oak and never let the stove go out. With the bypass damper engaged, I have a much larger bed of coals in the morning to start things up again. The ashes are definitely reduced. I'll post again when I get a chance to shut the stove down and pull the rear plate. But with 5 degree overnight temperatures in the forecast, I think I'll put it off awhile

 

[MaggiesFarm]

Wow... 20 years! Better late than never.

The rear burn plate (the small piece with the seashell pattern cast on it) is roughly $65, and can be had at your local Jotul dealer, or from http://www.woodmanspartsplus.com/. Yep... time to pull your cat, and see what's left of it! Burning with the cat, you'll enjoy a clean chimney, and 12 hour burn times from that stove. I'm not sure how hot you were burning it before, but I typically have it cruising with the stovetop between 350F - 450F. It can also cruise a long time at 550F - 600F stovetop, but then expect burn times to be perhaps halved (I've not tried running this hot for more than a few hours, myself).

These old 12's can be a little tricky to get the cat lit off, and so it's very likely that's why you're seeing disappointing performance, with your first attempt. Really, you need a catalytic probe thermometer to know what's going on, as well as a simple stove-top thermometer. It's taken me two years to (just recently) get a system down to where I'm happy with getting fairly consistent light-offs. You can read about it in the following thread, post 21 being where I finally joined the enlightened: https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/achieving-lift-off-in-the-downdraft-cat.116507/

Dry wood is a huge factor, and something I'm still struggling with. I'm burning mixed hardwoods (mostly Walnut and Ash), split and stacked last Thanksgiving, so 1 year seasoned. That's much better than where I was last year, but the wood is still not dry enough to get easy and fast light-offs. Most recommend 2 - 3 years, split and stacked.

Hi again- Well, I still haven't opened the back plate up - waiting for a warm up and holiday break - but the other night I had my first case of what I now know is back-puffing. The fire alarm went off in the middle of the night. So we opened the bypass damper and let it go for the night. Today I went out and bought a stove-top thermometer and starting reading through the different conversations and threads. The fire usually never goes out and I almost always have a good bed of coals. I burn large splits and fill up the burner at night before going to bed. Usually I throw in something like ash or cottonwood at the bottom and fill the rest up with good, dry oak. For the last week, I've been filling, then waiting for a nice full flame, then shutting down the bypass damper and the air control (not incrementally). Perhaps this was the cause of my most recent problem.

But now I am armed with a stove top thermometer. The manual says that I need to have the temp between 500 and 700 degrees for the cat to light off. I'm assuming they mean the temperature of the catalytic converter itself. Does this translate to 350-450 degrees on the stovetop thermometer?

Also, the threads I've read seem to indicate that you can actually tell when the catalytic converter has lit off. Is this something you can tell visually? If it's behind the back plate, how would you know? Or is this a function of the thermometer that goes into the catalytic converter itself (which I don't yet have)?

Thanks again for all your enlightening conversations! Maggie

 

[Ashful]

Hi Maggie,

Glad to hear you're using the cat. If it's still functional, it should vastly improve your burn times, and keep your chimney clean.

Those who talk about visually seeing the cat light off most often have stoves where the cat is mounted at the top of the firebox, and can be seen thru the top of the glass doors. There are even a few (Vermont Castings 2-in-1, for example), where the cat is in the back, but the glow can still be seen thru the front doors. Unfortunately, as you already noted, ours is hidden behind the firebox, completely out of view. There is a probe hole in the back of the Firelight 12, usually plugged with a small screw. If you remove this screw, you can insert a catalytic probe thermometer thru the hole, and monitor your cat temps this way, which is how I have mine rigged. I use an electronic probe, so I can set the meter on the floor next to the stove and read it easily, rather than crawling behind the stove to read a mechanical thermometer.

As far as stove-top temps prior to light-off, I find that mine usually light off when I get the stove top to 550F, before closing the bypass damper. The wood I'm burning came down in Hurricane Sandy, and was split and stacked Thanksgiving 2012, so it's only 1 year seasoned. Because of this, the cat temp usually only goes up to 550 - 650F when I close the bypass damper, and the cat temps will fall below ignition if I start to close down the air control with it in this state. So, I actually continue to burn with air 1/2 or full open for a good 15 minutes after closing the bypass damper, until my catalytic probe temperatures reach 1000+. Once the cat takes off like that, then I find I can close air 100%, and the catalytic probe thermometer stays in the 1200 - 1500F region for many hours. This means I can slowly smoulder a load of wood all day, with stove top temps around 350F, but with the cat above 1000F my chimney stays clean and I waste little heat.

Coming around to your back-puffing, I find this happens under a few conditions:

1. Weak draft. I have two Firelight 12's, and the one on 15 feet of chimney will backpuff any time I shut the air control to 0%. I must keep it open about 5% to 10% at all times. Th stove with 27 feet of chimney never back puffs at outside temps below 50F.
2. Getting a load going too vigorously, and cutting back the air too quickly. That burning mass of wood has momentum, and if you cut off the air with it going strong, it's quickly gobbling up the oxygen quicker than make-up air can provide it. Flame stalls, but stove is super-heated. As soon as enough air leaks back in thru your closed air control to provide the adequate amount of oxygen for ignition, boom... backpuff. Cut the air back by half each time (full, 1/2, 1/4, 1/8, closed), and you should avoid backpuffing on a stove with adequate chimney.
3. Closing the air control before the cat is lit off. Basically, shutting down before the cat is lit off seems to cause draft stall, whether it's just from a too-cool chimney or a plugged cat. Weak draft, like item 1 above, means the stove is not drawing make-up air in thru the draft control quickly enough.

What surprises me is that you're able to burn this stove with the bypass open. I find my chimney temps really go high, if I leave the bypass open on a full load, even with air control shut all the way.

 

[MaggiesFarm]

Hi Maggie,

Glad to hear you're using the cat. If it's still functional, it should vastly improve your burn times, and keep your chimney clean.

Those who talk about visually seeing the cat light off most often have stoves where the cat is mounted at the top of the firebox, and can be seen thru the top of the glass doors. There are even a few (Vermont Castings 2-in-1, for example), where the cat is in the back, but the glow can still be seen thru the front doors. Unfortunately, as you already noted, ours is hidden behind the firebox, completely out of view. There is a probe hole in the back of the Firelight 12, usually plugged with a small screw. If you remove this screw, you can insert a catalytic probe thermometer thru the hole, and monitor your cat temps this way, which is how I have mine rigged. I use an electronic probe, so I can set the meter on the floor next to the stove and read it easily, rather than crawling behind the stove to read a mechanical thermometer.

As far as stove-top temps prior to light-off, I find that mine usually light off when I get the stove top to 550F, before closing the bypass damper. The wood I'm burning came down in Hurricane Sandy, and was split and stacked Thanksgiving 2012, so it's only 1 year seasoned. Because of this, the cat temp usually only goes up to 550 - 650F when I close the bypass damper, and the cat temps will fall below ignition if I start to close down the air control with it in this state. So, I actually continue to burn with air 1/2 or full open for a good 15 minutes after closing the bypass damper, until my catalytic probe temperatures reach 1000+. Once the cat takes off like that, then I find I can close air 100%, and the catalytic probe thermometer stays in the 1200 - 1500F region for many hours. This means I can slowly smoulder a load of wood all day, with stove top temps around 350F, but with the cat above 1000F my chimney stays clean and I waste little heat.

Coming around to your back-puffing, I find this happens under a few conditions:

1. Weak draft. I have two Firelight 12's, and the one on 15 feet of chimney will backpuff any time I shut the air control to 0%. I must keep it open about 5% to 10% at all times. Th stove with 27 feet of chimney never back puffs at outside temps below 50F.
2. Getting a load going too vigorously, and cutting back the air too quickly. That burning mass of wood has momentum, and if you cut off the air with it going strong, it's quickly gobbling up the oxygen quicker than make-up air can provide it. Flame stalls, but stove is super-heated. As soon as enough air leaks back in thru your closed air control to provide the adequate amount of oxygen for ignition, boom... backpuff. Cut the air back by half each time (full, 1/2, 1/4, 1/8, closed), and you should avoid backpuffing on a stove with adequate chimney.
3. Closing the air control before the cat is lit off. Basically, shutting down before the cat is lit off seems to cause draft stall, whether it's just from a too-cool chimney or a plugged cat. Weak draft, like item 1 above, means the stove is not drawing make-up air in thru the draft control quickly enough.

What surprises me is that you're able to burn this stove with the bypass open. I find my chimney temps really go high, if I leave the bypass open on a full load, even with air control shut all the way.

Thanks again for your very helpful reply. I suspect that when the fire alarm went off, I either didn't get light off and/or I shut down the air control too quickly. The only part of the chimney that is visible is the horizontal part coming right off the back of the stove. It takes a bend up behind the brick work, so the vertical pipe is not accessible until it comes out the roof about 4-5 feet up. Then the chimney rises up another 9 feet or so. When I originally installed it, I had to add another length of pipe because the draft was indeed inadequate. That's because the roof slopes steeply upward and the peak is actually higher than then chimney top. Perhaps it didn't get too hot because the pipe is fully exposed to the elements. Right now the "elements" are about 0 degrees F! I live up in Wisconsin.

But, on the other hand, it's also likely that at least the firebox got too hot because the back plate is cracked. Guaging from the new thermometer and how the fire is burning, I'm guessing that I was running it at about 700 degrees stovetop temperature when I was home on a regular basis. At night and while I'm at work, I damped down the air control and used very large splits of wood. After about 8-10 hours, I would still have a good bed of coals.

Seems so strange that after 20 years I am now only just learning to use the stove properly. As finances allow, I'll be investing in a new catalytic converter, backplate and cat. thermometer. But for now the stovetop thermometer will have to do. I'll be more careful about cutting back the air more incrementally. Thanks again for all your input!

 

[jotul joe]

does any one know if you can season the back plate prior to burning in oven maybe helping it season might last a little longer ive bought 3 of these and they cost 117.00 shipped now not cheap . they warp and crack if over heated very easy . I just ordered all new internal parts and new inner back plate , chamber and also the outer cast cover that im referring to . my stove is a 1995 and ive had it all this time burning green wood and all it was time for a overhaul . 1,097.00 in parts the chamber is $435 alone then $ 200 for a steel cat these prices are costly but I still don't want a new stove this is like a old friend now to me

 

[NHcpa]

View attachment 136504 does any one know if you can season the back plate prior to burning in oven maybe helping it season might last a little longer ive bought 3 of these and they cost 117.00 shipped now not cheap . they warp and crack if over heated very easy . I just ordered all new internal parts and new inner back plate , chamber and also the outer cast cover that im referring to . my stove is a 1995 and ive had it all this time burning green wood and all it was time for a overhaul . 1,097.00 in parts the chamber is $435 alone then $ 200 for a steel cat these prices are costly but I still don't want a new stove this is like a old friend now to me

That is a rip roaring flame! I have replaced 2 back plates since 1998. I think I get into trouble with the back plate is when I open the ash pan door to push more air through at start up...and sometimes I forget to close it early enough. I prop replaced 3 cats, orig lasted several years but then fried it with not so dry wood (wet) actually. I did experimate with the Cleanskies? - looks like a brillow pad, seems to work well. all said, I very much like and enjoy the stove.

 

[begreen]

Using the ash pan to start the stove violates the warranty and risks cracking the base or grate. The manual explicitly says don't do this. This is a costly repair and unnecessary.

 

[NHcpa]

Using the ash pan to start the stove violates the warranty and risks cracking the base or grate. The manual explicitly says don't do this. This is a costly repair and unnecessary.

View attachment 136506 View attachment 136507

I wasn't giving advice, but thanks for the clarity.

 

[jotul joe]

my stove never cracked but it destryed the back plate the inner back plate the grate lol look at these that came out however the stove shell inner and out is invery good cond. so
by putting new chamber , new steel cat ,, new inner back plate, and access cover and bolt , chamber cat cover , and bottom for chamber., new gaskets. It will be like new . the side plates and the whole shell is remarkably clean ! Its in great shape in fact this is the original cat in my hand and those are not cracks, the cat actually looks in very nice shape ,however i bought a steel one anyway to put in new chamber . Ihat was full time use 19 years of burning 6 months out of the year daily of somewhat green wood semi dry !. Does anyone have instruction of what to gasket im not sure?
1. i know gasket around the back of stove
2, under lid
3 under top cover ( does it only get 3 sides and none on back or complete 360 loop of 1/4 gasket ?
4 damper lover 1/4 gasket but ( do i gasket the whole flange also even though theres a gasket where that meets back of stove already ?)
5 on the inner back plate itself does this get a gasket when theres one on the back of stove already ?
im kinda confused of the exact placment of gaskets due to when it came apart the seemed to fall off and so cant tell the lay out . can anyone give a detail on where gaskets should go on each piece ??? would be very cool . I mean we will double gasket things if need be but sure would be nice to know its done per spec . Noooo more abuse to the stove ! Im getting a therm. so ill know temps and noooo more open ash door for lighting 19 years of that lol look at the grate looks like a bridge and the inner back plate had a 4 inch buldge as you can see
My damper has a slight warp but still able to go back on it might need thicker gasket to seal up the gap better . VERY THANKFUL FOR THIS FORUM. I didnt know these could be saved i was ready to scrap it untill i saw prices on new and how cheap the material has become . this forum has great info on it . Though id like to learn how to operate the stove properly with knowing what temp to close damper . i obviously ran it as to meet my need for heat over the proper proceedures

 

[Ashful]

Jotul spec's 1/4" braided gasket for everything but the door glass, which is 3/16" braided gasket. Note that's braided, not woven.

The way you're ripping thru rear burn plates, and seeing your lower grate, you're really overfiring that stove. My 1993 stove had a small, almost invisible hairline crack in the back plate in 2011. I replaced it and have put at least 10 cords thru it since, with the rear burn plate still looking like the day it was installed. All of my grates are still as flat as the day they were made, and I'm putting a LOT of wood thru these stoves. There is no reason to have this damage, if you are using the stove properly.

One issue with this stove is that it can really take off in bypass mode. I find it only takes maybe 8 minutes with a full load of fresh fuel on coals in the morning, for the stovetop to reach 500F. In fact, sometimes I see external stove pipe temps hit 600F within 4 - 5 minutes, so I'm dialing back the air before I even engage the cat. The back plate damage is from burning with air open too far, or staying in bypass too long.

I've never seen a stove grate warped that badly, on a stove that's still functional. Have you checked all the seams between castings?

 

[jotul joe]

Jotul spec's 1/4" braided gasket for everything but the door glass, which is 3/16" braided gasket. Note that's braided, not woven.

The way you're ripping thru rear burn plates, and seeing your lower grate, you're really overfiring that stove. My 1993 stove had a small, almost invisible hairline crack in the back plate in 2011. I replaced it and have put at least 10 cords thru it since, with the rear burn plate still looking like the day it was installed. All of my grates are still as flat as the day they were made, and I'm putting a LOT of wood thru these stoves. There is no reason to have this damage, if you are using the stove properly.

One issue with this stove is that it can really take off in bypass mode. I find it only takes maybe 8 minutes with a full load of fresh fuel on coals in the morning, for the stovetop to reach 500F. In fact, sometimes I see external stove pipe temps hit 600F within 4 - 5 minutes, so I'm dialing back the air before I even engage the cat. The back plate damage is from burning with air open too far, or staying in bypass too long.

I've never seen a stove grate warped that badly, on a stove that's still functional. Have you checked all the seams between castings?

Yes , i know ive been using it for 19 years amazingly no cracks anywhere went through with fine tooth comb vacumed it out then all is good cept these parts i ordered
1 . 04-128454 chamber $435,70
2. 04-128455 cat cover $71.00
3. 04-128456 bottom $ 62.00
4. 103329 grate $64.00
5.103329 inner back plate $138 .19
6. back plate cover $117 53 shipped
7. acess bolt $ 2.44
8. codar steel cat cs552 $ 112.99 shipped
9. shipping cost on other items noted $30.00
10. gasket material not purchased as of yet

So a total of about 1,100 .00 after 19 years of hard service Not bad !
I know what your saying about running it way to hot this is true . I intend on using it more to the standard normal use knowing all this now .
So what is the temp you dont want to exceed ? if i put a magnet therm on lower stove pipe near the stove so i wont burn to hot ? i understand now that i was not suposed to have ash door open for so long or used for air drafting . What temp should the damper be closed at too ? To start the use of cat ?
and is woven much different than braided for use ??
thanks for suggestions im looking for locations for new gaskets as the old basicly fell off leaving not much of a trace i did read a thread showing pics of peoples gasket jobs but some looked like the gasketed double like , on the back of stove and then on back of inner back plate as well seems double to me ? as in post # 29 betrice i cant tell what he is gasketing the back of plate when thers already a gasket in his first photo thats there, that would appear to be doble gaskets https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads...-chamber-from-jotul-firelight-12.99769/page-2

 

[MaggiesFarm]

Hi all - You're email reminded me that I have yet another thing to add to the chore list. I cleaned out the chimney earlier this summer after skipping it last year. It was very clean, nonetheless. But before school starts (I'm a teacher), I better get going on inspecting the stove, replacing the worn gasket, buying a new backplate, catalytic converter and whatever else is needed. I, too, am interested in knowing whether there are any recommendations on breaking in the new parts to add to their longevity. So today I first add more roosts to the chicken coop to accomodate the new chicks hatched this spring, then I'll dismantle the stove and take a peek. I'll be checking in for your helpful support and guidance.

Do you still recommend the firecatcombuster.com site for purchasing a new catalytic converter? If so, would you be able to provide a link to the actual model that you recommend? And where is the best place to purchase the back plate? I'm low income, but I don't want to buy cheap materials that I'll end up paying for later. I love your willingness to be so helpful. Many thanks. Maggie

 

[MaggiesFarm]

Yes , i know ive been using it for 19 years amazingly no cracks anywhere went through with fine tooth comb vacumed it out then all is good cept these parts i ordered
1 . 04-128454 chamber $435,70
2. 04-128455 cat cover $71.00
3. 04-128456 bottom $ 62.00
4. 103329 grate $64.00
5.103329 inner back plate $138 .19
6. back plate cover $117 53 shipped
7. acess bolt $ 2.44
8. codar steel cat cs552 $ 112.99 shipped
9. shipping cost on other items noted $30.00
10. gasket material not purchased as of yet

So a total of about 1,100 .00 after 19 years of hard service Not bad !
I know what your saying about running it way to hot this is true . I intend on using it more to the standard normal use knowing all this now .
So what is the temp you dont want to exceed ? if i put a magnet therm on lower stove pipe near the stove so i wont burn to hot ? i understand now that i was not suposed to have ash door open for so long or used for air drafting . What temp should the damper be closed at too ? To start the use of cat ?
and is woven much different than braided for use ??
thanks for suggestions im looking for locations for new gaskets as the old basicly fell off leaving not much of a trace i did read a thread showing pics of peoples gasket jobs but some looked like the gasketed double like , on the back of stove and then on back of inner back plate as well seems double to me ? as in post # 29 betrice i cant tell what he is gasketing the back of plate when thers already a gasket in his first photo thats there, that would appear to be doble gaskets https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads...-chamber-from-jotul-firelight-12.99769/page-2

Hi - I'm wondering where you bought the steel cat cs 552. The lowest price I've seen is $199 without shipping. Also, could you tell me more about the 04-128455 cat cover. I'm having trouble reading the parts diagram and wonder if that's the soft foam-ish thing at the bottom of the inner back plate.

 

[Ashful]

I'll post part numbers and prices tonight, but I bought all of these components once thru a local Jotul dealer, and then the cover and lower piece for the second stove from woodmanspartsplus.com. The cover is about $65, as is the lower filler piece. They're both made of a soft refractory insulation material.

 

[MaggiesFarm]

I'll post part numbers and prices tonight, but I bought all of these components once thru a local Jotul dealer, and then the cover and lower piece for the second stove from woodmanspartsplus.com. The cover is about $65, as is the lower filler piece. They're both made of a soft refractory insulation material.

Thanks! I found the rear plate at Stove World for $119.85 at StoveWorld.com. I'm including a picture of the catalytic converter. I know I ran the burner without the bypass for 20 years and only this winter started using the bypass. To me, the cat looks good - no cracks & feels solid. Wondering whether you think it needs replacing.



Other things I found that were wrong, and I'm wondering whether it is urgent to replace these, or if can wait until next year.

• Crack on the inner burn plate(103329)

• Catalyst chamber cover (04-128455) is cracked, but not broken

• Catalyst chamber bottom (04-128456) is broken in half but could feasibly be put back in place.
• 

Lastly, how do you recommend I get the screw that holds the rear plate out? It's stuck pretty solid.

Again, many thanks, Maggie

 

[NHcpa]

Thanks! I found the rear plate at Stove World for $119.85 at StoveWorld.com. I'm including a picture of the catalytic converter. I know I ran the burner without the bypass for 20 years and only this winter started using the bypass. To me, the cat looks good - no cracks & feels solid. Wondering whether you think it needs replacing.

View attachment 136600
View attachment 136601
Other things I found that were wrong, and I'm wondering whether it is urgent to replace these, or if can wait until next year.

• Crack on the inner burn plate(103329) View attachment 136602

• Catalyst chamber cover (04-128455) is cracked, but not broken

• Catalyst chamber bottom (04-128456) is broken in half but could feasibly be put back in place.
• View attachment 136603

Lastly, how do you recommend I get the screw that holds the rear plate out? It's stuck pretty solid.

Again, many thanks, Maggie

If your talking of the bolt to the rear plate that covers the cat...your giving me memories... Mine too was stuck. Tried using a propane blow torch but ended up shearing the head off. I took the rear back plate out and then took it down to my local auto mechanic who got the threaded bolt out (relatively easy),

 

[Ashful]

Soak with favorite penetrating oil, then remove with your favorite impact driver. Don't try to muscle it, lest you break it. That's the beauty of impact wrenches.

 

[MaggiesFarm]

Soak with favorite penetrating oil, then remove with your favorite impact driver. Don't try to muscle it, lest you break it. That's the beauty of impact wrenches.

Already soaking. Have to visit my favorite neighbor for the impact wrench. Think I'll need it to take my mower blades off, too!

Any views on the other parts. Replace? or keep 'em?

 

[Ashful]

Sorry, Maggie. Caught me at a very busy time. Will try to read your full post and respond this weekend .

 

[MaggiesFarm]

Thanks. Take your time.

 

[Woody Stover]

interested in knowing whether there are any recommendations on breaking in the new parts to add to their longevity.

http://www.woodmanspartsplus.com/f4863/a2777/Grates/Seasoning-Your-Cast-Iron-Stove-Part.html

 

[jotul joe]

Hi all...new here and was looking to hear what ya'll think about the Jotul Firelight Model 12 wood stoves. My parents bought a house that has a big 3 car detached garage that they have no use for so me and my fiance are turning it into a 3 bedroom house for us and our 5 yr old and baby thats on the way and due febuary. It will be 2 floor and about 1900 sq ft once completed (about 3 months from now...starting construction tomorrow) We plan on heating primarily with a wood stove and my parents house came with this white Jotul thats in great shape and they have offered for us to have it because my mother wants a black colored stove instead of white. I personally dont prefer white either but hey its FREE haha! Figured I could always get around to painting it black later down the road. I have grown up around wood stoves but have no prior experience with a Jotul. Was hoping someone on here could fill me in on opinions of this stove and maybe known problems or advice on keeping it in good operating condition. Thanks for any insight anyone might have!

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You could always add contrast with some black cast options like doors and black side warmers

Hi all...new here and was looking to hear what ya'll think about the Jotul Firelight Model 12 wood stoves. My parents bought a house that has a big 3 car detached garage that they have no use for so me and my fiance are turning it into a 3 bedroom house for us and our 5 yr old and baby thats on the way and due febuary. It will be 2 floor and about 1900 sq ft once completed (about 3 months from now...starting construction tomorrow) We plan on heating primarily with a wood stove and my parents house came with this white Jotul thats in great shape and they have offered for us to have it because my mother wants a black colored stove instead of white. I personally dont prefer white either but hey its FREE haha! Figured I could always get around to painting it black later down the road. I have grown up around wood stoves but have no prior experience with a Jotul. Was hoping someone on here could fill me in on opinions of this stove and maybe known problems or advice on keeping it in good operating condition. Thanks for any insight anyone might have!

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