Thanks for all the help! Maybe I don't need a new one, but now I have more questions..

  • Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.

    We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.

    We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil.
Status
Not open for further replies.
vizzle said:
No plate! Just a burned paper label that was poorly ripped off. I checked that before to get the model, etc to find the manual.


That baffle plate with holes looks very much like a stove I've seen recently at Menards. Can't remember the manufacturer but I do remember it is an EPA approved unit... Century maybe??
 
Hope it is still in stock, try several stores and if not, ask what the ordering procedure is. You might also do a search on the Englander 13NC. tfin has one and can tell you a bit about it. He's up in Maine so that should boost your confidence a bit. Download the manual for the stove and we'll need to address the hearth issues.

If you can take a bit wider shot so that we can see the how this would affect the right side opening, that would help. The current hearth will probably need better heat insulation and there is a possibility of you needing an extension. There are prefab units that might work, though the irregular front edge of the current hearth complicates things a little. But almost all problems are solvable. Best of luck locating the stove.
 
I think that some bricks need to be replaced, pipe fixed up, wood man straightened out and the little stove fired up for the season.

If the wood guy won't cooperate get a cheap chop saw and cut'em all in half. Load'em half N/S and half E/W.
 
BrotherBart said:
I think that some bricks need to be replaced, pipe fixed up, wood man straightened out and the little stove fired up for the season.

If the wood guy won't cooperate get a cheap chop saw and cut'em all in half. Load'em half N/S and half E/W.

I tried to cut them before, its a bear! Am I doing it wrong? Or am I using the wrong saw? Once they are split, a chainsaw is almost unsafe to use because of the movement in the pieces.
 
vizzle said:
BrotherBart said:
I think that some bricks need to be replaced, pipe fixed up, wood man straightened out and the little stove fired up for the season.

If the wood guy won't cooperate get a cheap chop saw and cut'em all in half. Load'em half N/S and half E/W.

I tried to cut them before, its a bear! Am I doing it wrong? Or am I using the wrong saw? Once they are split, a chainsaw is almost unsafe to use because of the movement in the pieces.

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=91938

or

https://www.choiceaccessories.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=60805
 
Have you looked into options for tightening up the heat leaks in the house? Now that we've established that you already have a 1.8 cu ft stove and that you are still cold, maybe it's time to invest in some attic insulation and caulking instead of a new stove? Done right, that will save you money and increase your comfort year after year. Just a thought.
 
BeGreen said:
Have you looked into options for tightening up the heat leaks in the house? Now that we've established that you already have a 1.8 cu ft stove and that you are still cold, maybe it's time to invest in some attic insulation and caulking instead of a new stove? Done right, that will save you money and increase your comfort year after year. Just a thought.

I reposted the inside measurements. Is this really still 1.8>??? 18x10.5x10.5 (height is on angle slanting down to 8.5 inches.)

There are the measurements again.

We have all new windows, and insulation in the attic. Over the last few years I have even put the door sealers in to get ride of draft. There isn't any draft coming in. Its pretty insulated.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.