Before starting I want to thank the people that have posted previously on this forum whether directly to me or to other topics as the information available is almost overwhelming and in most cases well thought out. NoLo and Garnification have posted a lot of helpful information specific to the Garn which I found useful, others for the Eko.
After first starting by looking at a OWB, then after this reading this forum looking at CB 2300, Garn, Eko, I find myself liking the self contained Garn. The Eko requires storage and living in a more remote area, it may be more difficult and expensive to set up and acquire my own storage.
I have been trying to do my homework as not to waste a lot of your time with answers I can find by searching previous posts. I am heating 2400 main floor, 2400 lower level, and 1200 workshop. I was careful with the window/door/room sizes and insulation factors. The house with 5.5” wall is well insulated with spray adhesive Applegate cellulose insulation in the walls, 2” foam under underground slab and all exterior outlet penetrations foamed prior to insulating. R50 in the ceilings, air infiltration is minimal. The shop has 5.5” fiberglass insulation and r44 ceiling and 2” foam under slab and perimeter. I am using SlantFin Heatloss Explorer 2 that someone on this site recommended on this site.
When I run heat loss calculations (SlantFin) on the house (90° Temp differential –20 to 70 degrees. 9078 Heating Degree days) I arrive at 90,932 BTU/hr. We have an existing Weil McClain G5 propane boiler (140,000BTU input/114.800BTU output) to heat the house that can easily heat the house and domestic hot water and definitely does not run continuously. If I am viewing this correctly that would mean that I am using less than 114,800 BTU/hr to heat the home at –20 degrees.
The workshop Slant/Fin calculates (-20 degrees---77 degree differential_6842 HDD base 57 degrees ) to 32,997 BTU/hr. I used 700 gallons of propane in the shop boiler and SlantFin calculations equate to 699 gallons in the 82% efficient propane boiler so I feel the reliability of the calculations is fairly accurate.
I have had two Garn dealers recommend the 2000 series over the 1500, and Cozy Heat recommend the Eko 60 based on 6000 sq./ft which includes 1200 sq./ft workshop.
Questions:
1- I am entertaining the Garn 2000 with its 1,272,000 Btu storage, as it seems the easiest way for me to get overnight heating at –20f without restocking the fire. Would others with experience agree with this?
2- is possible to use one plate to plate heat exchanger at the boiler for both buildings. I understand I would have to install a mixer valve in the shop where high temp is not required but it seems to be a lot cheaper than two heat exchangers.
3- Am I ok with 1” pex for 175 feet if my needs are 91,000 Btu and I can get the proper flow?
4- Is there a lower priced method to circulate underground other than the $10-30/ft foam insulated drain tile methods that I have heard quoted. Overall I need 200’. I was looking at the wrapped insulation Pinnacle method but have been advised that the heat loss is high with this method and I have no experience to make a decision. I do have to bury this under a driveway so the hose will be in the frost line. I could cover the hose with foam.
Thanks again, George
After first starting by looking at a OWB, then after this reading this forum looking at CB 2300, Garn, Eko, I find myself liking the self contained Garn. The Eko requires storage and living in a more remote area, it may be more difficult and expensive to set up and acquire my own storage.
I have been trying to do my homework as not to waste a lot of your time with answers I can find by searching previous posts. I am heating 2400 main floor, 2400 lower level, and 1200 workshop. I was careful with the window/door/room sizes and insulation factors. The house with 5.5” wall is well insulated with spray adhesive Applegate cellulose insulation in the walls, 2” foam under underground slab and all exterior outlet penetrations foamed prior to insulating. R50 in the ceilings, air infiltration is minimal. The shop has 5.5” fiberglass insulation and r44 ceiling and 2” foam under slab and perimeter. I am using SlantFin Heatloss Explorer 2 that someone on this site recommended on this site.
When I run heat loss calculations (SlantFin) on the house (90° Temp differential –20 to 70 degrees. 9078 Heating Degree days) I arrive at 90,932 BTU/hr. We have an existing Weil McClain G5 propane boiler (140,000BTU input/114.800BTU output) to heat the house that can easily heat the house and domestic hot water and definitely does not run continuously. If I am viewing this correctly that would mean that I am using less than 114,800 BTU/hr to heat the home at –20 degrees.
The workshop Slant/Fin calculates (-20 degrees---77 degree differential_6842 HDD base 57 degrees ) to 32,997 BTU/hr. I used 700 gallons of propane in the shop boiler and SlantFin calculations equate to 699 gallons in the 82% efficient propane boiler so I feel the reliability of the calculations is fairly accurate.
I have had two Garn dealers recommend the 2000 series over the 1500, and Cozy Heat recommend the Eko 60 based on 6000 sq./ft which includes 1200 sq./ft workshop.
Questions:
1- I am entertaining the Garn 2000 with its 1,272,000 Btu storage, as it seems the easiest way for me to get overnight heating at –20f without restocking the fire. Would others with experience agree with this?
2- is possible to use one plate to plate heat exchanger at the boiler for both buildings. I understand I would have to install a mixer valve in the shop where high temp is not required but it seems to be a lot cheaper than two heat exchangers.
3- Am I ok with 1” pex for 175 feet if my needs are 91,000 Btu and I can get the proper flow?
4- Is there a lower priced method to circulate underground other than the $10-30/ft foam insulated drain tile methods that I have heard quoted. Overall I need 200’. I was looking at the wrapped insulation Pinnacle method but have been advised that the heat loss is high with this method and I have no experience to make a decision. I do have to bury this under a driveway so the hose will be in the frost line. I could cover the hose with foam.
Thanks again, George
