The 2011 Heating Season Has Begun
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the stove always runs at that temp when dampered out an inch or so on the rod............the flue temp is right where I like it (and maybe even a tad lower..........usually I run it TDC).
No blower on the stove........fan to the furnace after a bit.
-Soupy1957
No blower on the stove........fan to the furnace after a bit.
-Soupy1957
I turned on the furnace fan................there..........that make ya feel better? (lol)
By the way, the black thermometer is mounted on the flange that overhangs the face........it's not on the "top" of the stove.
-Soupy1957
By the way, the black thermometer is mounted on the flange that overhangs the face........it's not on the "top" of the stove.
-Soupy1957
Well, all I can say is that the temps shown are only as good as the thermometer. I can't say that the Rutland is correct. Over the past 3 years of burning I've had no troubles with the stove; nothing glows "cherry" and all has been well so far.
I'll try my Laser thermometer (if I can find it) and see what IT says the stove top temp is....
-Soupy1957
I'll try my Laser thermometer (if I can find it) and see what IT says the stove top temp is....
-Soupy1957
This is interesting.............
I took the other magnetic thermometer I had on the kitchen wood cook stove, (not in use) and put it on the "top" of the wood stove in the living room.......
Note the results. Conclusion? I dunno......,perhaps the face temp is hotter than the stove top? Or that the Rutland or the other thermometer is incorrect?
-Soupy1957
I took the other magnetic thermometer I had on the kitchen wood cook stove, (not in use) and put it on the "top" of the wood stove in the living room.......
Note the results. Conclusion? I dunno......,perhaps the face temp is hotter than the stove top? Or that the Rutland or the other thermometer is incorrect?
-Soupy1957
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+1, not surprising, the upper stage is ventilated with the convection space. The lower spot is directly on the stove top. Reverse their locations.
Ok............
Conclusions:
A) The Rutland may be accurate (?)
B) The Stove "top" is cooler than the front flange over the face of the stove
C) If the stove "top" temp is more moderate, no matter which thermometer was used,
it may be said that the stove top is not "too" hot???
Any other conclusions I'm missing????
-Soupy1957
Conclusions:
A) The Rutland may be accurate (?)
B) The Stove "top" is cooler than the front flange over the face of the stove
C) If the stove "top" temp is more moderate, no matter which thermometer was used,
it may be said that the stove top is not "too" hot???
Any other conclusions I'm missing????
-Soupy1957
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BrowningBAR
Minister of Fire
soupy1957 said:
No two stove thermometers will give the same reading. Also, listen to BeGreen and turn on the blower.
soupy1957 said:
The stove top is what you are calling the flange. The convective top is not the stove top, it has a convective air gap underneath it.
The Rutland may be overstating things, so I would find the laser thermometer. If the actual temperature is closer to 650F you are fine.
The furnace fan has no relation to the stove top temperature. He meant the stove blower, which is not installed. Check with the laser. This could just be a bad reading thermometer.
BrowningBAR
Minister of Fire
Looked around for the IR and couldn't find it. I know I hid it from my grandson (intentionally.........since he's only 3) .......obviously hid it so well that even "I" can't find it (lol).
If memory serves, last year, when using the IR, (new toy, just bought at that time), I noted that typically the top of the stove was not registering as high a temp as the door glass or flange overhanging the front.
Since both the Rutland and the other magnetic thermometer seem to register temps that are "in the orange" range of the one, when placed on the true "top" of the stove, I'd suppose that all is well.
-Soupy1957
If memory serves, last year, when using the IR, (new toy, just bought at that time), I noted that typically the top of the stove was not registering as high a temp as the door glass or flange overhanging the front.
Since both the Rutland and the other magnetic thermometer seem to register temps that are "in the orange" range of the one, when placed on the true "top" of the stove, I'd suppose that all is well.
-Soupy1957
Yes. But your true "Stove top" is not the top pf the firebox. It has an air channel underneath it. Which is why you are getting a cooler temp reading. If you could get one of your thermometers in the section where your blower air comes from, that would be a "stove top" reading. Which would prob be closer or possibly higher than the temps you are getting on the front flange.
If that flange is 700* and if you use the same calculations for your top thermometer, like single wall pipe (although different circumstances) and doubled your 350* from the top. You would still be looking at 700* stove top.
Although it wont hurt the stove intermittently, I wouldnt run it that hot all the time. . .
Heed the advice of BG. The actual stove top on your stove will always run cooler because of the blower outlet. I would have the blower on also if it was in fact that Hot.
Call me crazy, but I have 3 thermometers on my stove. Two on the stove top (30-NC top is top of firebox) one at the front where the end of the baffle is and another on top by the impingement plate is. The 3rd is a Condar double wall flue thermometer and it is normall just a little below what the actual stove top is. Just a little.
If that flange is 700* and if you use the same calculations for your top thermometer, like single wall pipe (although different circumstances) and doubled your 350* from the top. You would still be looking at 700* stove top.
Although it wont hurt the stove intermittently, I wouldnt run it that hot all the time. . .
Heed the advice of BG. The actual stove top on your stove will always run cooler because of the blower outlet. I would have the blower on also if it was in fact that Hot.
Call me crazy, but I have 3 thermometers on my stove. Two on the stove top (30-NC top is top of firebox) one at the front where the end of the baffle is and another on top by the impingement plate is. The 3rd is a Condar double wall flue thermometer and it is normall just a little below what the actual stove top is. Just a little.
North of 60
Minister of Fire
Find the IR gun. Get them both on that lower section and figure out what you are working with here.
I'd say that's at the top end of where you'd want to run if that's reading appropriately. Just had to ditch my one Rutland as it starting reading low above 450 degrees. About 125 degrees low when it was saying 600.
Also, I could be wrong (I'd have to dig up the emails to be sure) but I swear I remember the Condar engineer I spoke with last year saying there is a different spring used in the chimgards versus the stove top models of the condars which makes up for a difference in being horizontal compared to vertical. I could be wrong, but the IR would help tell that . (Maybe it really only is the paint / scale that is different but if I'm right that chimgard may not read accurately on the stove top)
pen
I'd say that's at the top end of where you'd want to run if that's reading appropriately. Just had to ditch my one Rutland as it starting reading low above 450 degrees. About 125 degrees low when it was saying 600.
Also, I could be wrong (I'd have to dig up the emails to be sure) but I swear I remember the Condar engineer I spoke with last year saying there is a different spring used in the chimgards versus the stove top models of the condars which makes up for a difference in being horizontal compared to vertical. I could be wrong, but the IR would help tell that . (Maybe it really only is the paint / scale that is different but if I'm right that chimgard may not read accurately on the stove top)
pen
I do recall, and made myself a mental note, that the flue Thermometer was recommended for replacement every two years, on the manufacturers packaging. I intend to replace it, and the stove thermometers next summer.
Based on the characteristic behavior of my stove, and successful and safe burns over the last three years, (of course, I don't have the experience of BeGreen and others who have been burning for 10 years or more, and I acknowledge that humbly), and the very positive reports by my Chimney Sweep concerning the overall condition of things (in spite of my most recent dicker with him about the angle of the flue pipe exiting my roof, which is a whole other thing), .......I'd say I'm comfortable with the burning and functioning as it has gone these past few years.
If I need to dial the heat back a bit, and build smaller fires, I will............
-Soupy1957
Based on the characteristic behavior of my stove, and successful and safe burns over the last three years, (of course, I don't have the experience of BeGreen and others who have been burning for 10 years or more, and I acknowledge that humbly), and the very positive reports by my Chimney Sweep concerning the overall condition of things (in spite of my most recent dicker with him about the angle of the flue pipe exiting my roof, which is a whole other thing), .......I'd say I'm comfortable with the burning and functioning as it has gone these past few years.
If I need to dial the heat back a bit, and build smaller fires, I will............
-Soupy1957
The external thermometers should be good for a long, long time. Condar makes no mention of replacing them on a time frame. The probe thermometers do have a lifespan though according to Condar. Not sure why but they do.
I burn hot too Soup. If I don't I won't heat my house. In my mind, if you burn very hot all the time the concern is not with a chimney fire (as burning very hot won't leave creosote in a chimney) and a properly installed chimney can handle a heck of a beating. However, burning just plain hot and not very hot will keep the chimney clean too. The concern with very high temps is the stove.
I paid 450 bux for my 30 and Mr. Obama gave me 30% of that money back. If I warp the poo out of this thing it's no big deal as it paid for itself in its first winter. To me, I'd just want to be sure that you are actually at 750 when that thing says 750. Spending too much time above that will keep your glass clean but could shorten the life of that stove. How much shorter? That's the tough one. I know you paid a bit more than $315 bucks for what you have which is why I'm saying this.
pen
I burn hot too Soup. If I don't I won't heat my house. In my mind, if you burn very hot all the time the concern is not with a chimney fire (as burning very hot won't leave creosote in a chimney) and a properly installed chimney can handle a heck of a beating. However, burning just plain hot and not very hot will keep the chimney clean too. The concern with very high temps is the stove.
I paid 450 bux for my 30 and Mr. Obama gave me 30% of that money back. If I warp the poo out of this thing it's no big deal as it paid for itself in its first winter. To me, I'd just want to be sure that you are actually at 750 when that thing says 750. Spending too much time above that will keep your glass clean but could shorten the life of that stove. How much shorter? That's the tough one. I know you paid a bit more than $315 bucks for what you have which is why I'm saying this.
pen
Soup, I think you might be ok, just getting the stove a little hot. Dial the air down a bit and see if you can drop the flue temp down in the 400-500F range.
BTW, I guess burning time is getting close. Pouring rain outside, so I cleaned up the stove today. Looks like new now, well at least for a few days. It is supposed to get chilly at night soon.
BTW, I guess burning time is getting close. Pouring rain outside, so I cleaned up the stove today. Looks like new now, well at least for a few days. It is supposed to get chilly at night soon.
The Flue temp gets my first and primary attention always. I'm typically seeing just shy (lower) than TDC on that Condar and things seem to go well. I haven't seen my stove warp to any weird shapes yet.
-Soupy1957
-Soupy1957
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