Post in 'The Hearth Room - Wood Stoves and Fireplaces' started by Crabby, Nov 13, 2007.
they were bought out by Lennox and then discontiuned
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I leave mine on L-M and do not have a damper in the flue and it seems to go thru the wood but it does heat my house.
I am replacing it this spring with an Englander 30
I have the manual for The Earth Stove Model 101/105. It indicates two different installations - one for a mobile home and one for a regular residence. If anybody is interested in the manual I could fax it or scan it and upload it somewhere. I got it from Lennox. The rep told me it was the last one.
would be very interested in that for sure as I do not have the manuel or even seen one can you scan and e-mail it?
I would appreciate getting emailed a copy of the scanned manual also. I just got a stove and am in process of installing it. after reading these posts, I'm definitely adding the damper! Can anyone tell me what the pipe that is open above the damper does? Mine runs up a couple of feet into the stovepipe. Is the end near the damper supposed to be piped to outside air? Thanks for any help for this old guy who's new to woodburning!
I belive it is so when the stove shuts the air off it still allows the chimney to draft
Send me your email addresses and I'll email it to you. It's too large to upload here. Mine is firstname.lastname@example.org
I think installing the damper was a great idea. You now have two ways to control the air flow through your stove, shutting down the air at the intake source (to the extent the termostatic spring will allow you to), and/or shutting down the air flow at the exhaust end. The impact of which air flow you choose to restrict is this: When you shut down the intake air source you tend to substantially reduce the oxygen source which will tend to create more smoldering. After all, fresh air and oxygen are not going to flow down your chimney to get to your fire. On the other hand, when you slow the exhaust stream end of the air flow by using the pipe damper, you can leave the air intake more open providing a better oxygen source which allows a less smoldering burn while still substantially slowing the air flow through the stove. Sounds like your pipe damper is helping you accomplish that. It should give you much better control over burn times with the least creosote build up possible for your stove.
Please send me the manual also email@example.com :cheese:
I have the same model stove at the house I just moved into....no manual or anything. I am experiencing the same problems of burning wood too fast and having an empty stove in the morn. The chimney is very long, and the seals and everything appear to be in order. I am considering a dampner, but I would love to take a look at the manual first. I am a rookie at wood burning stoves so this is all new to me.
Please email the manual to firstname.lastname@example.org if you could.
Does anyone know of any website were I could purchase a replacement blower and motor for the back of the stove?
Not specifically, but if you have the old blower and motor, I'd try taking them to a local electric motor shop, or try checking the motor for any labels and part numbers, then looking on-line at places like Graingers. Essentially nobody makes their own motors, they all purchase them as commodity items from a few manufacturers, so usually it isn't hard to find a generic replacement.
If you don't have the original parts to match, it gets a lot harder, but if there is a hole that the blower mounts into, then you may be able to find something that will fit into it, or make some sort of adaptor.
I am using a generic fan on the back of mine. Works fine, in fact, it is quieter than the one that came with my older 100 model stove. I am controlling it with a router speed control, and would like to wire a snap disc thermo to turn it on and off when the fire gets low, but have not done it yet.
I have this same stove, I think... The front of the stove looks exactly as the one pictured on page one, although, mine is a fireplace insert. There is an air-intake and adjustment lever underneath the bottom of the door (where the metal curves down w/ the decorative fasion). Also there is a damper on the right hand side near the top. The damper is part of the stove and doesn't seem to seal too tightly. My stove also has a blower underneath the door with an adjustment knob on the bottom right side.
I also have the problem of burning large amounts of wood. And I have a hard time keeping the temp on the stove above 350. I have already used twice the amount of wood as my father has used this winter with his stove. (home-made, wish that man was still alive..., made excellent stoves! RIP County Peyton)
Also the blower is very loud, was thinking about putting some silent metal AC computer type fans in to help that...
Any thoughts or suggestions are greatly appreciated.
put a stove an 8in stove pipe damper in. since i have done this since i started this post, i have cut my wood consumption in half. my house is really warm and it performs so well. try it.
i got a earth stove 100 for free last winter. it replaced the old style frankilin i had in my garage. i really like this old earth stove. it heats my shop good and use's half the wood the franklin did. i have the 8" chimney straight up with no damper. i get a fire going and let the auto damper do its work. i love it.
now i just need to get a new stove for in the house.
We were given an Earth Stove 100 (similar to the one in this picture) for free and are trying to figure out how to get it properly installed. The exhaust pipe comes out the back. The stove had no legs with it. Our insurance company says that for us to put this in our basement is has to be installed according to manufacturers specifications. Any idea on if we can use this with no legs (i.e. put it up on some type of blocks)? Anybody out there know where we can get a copy of the installation instructions for this stove?
Welcome to the forums! There are several Earth Stove owners on the forums here, and I think that Web may have copies of some of the Earth Stove manuals in his collection of such things. Hopefully one of them will be able to help you out that way.
It sounds like if it had no legs, it might have been being used as an insert - some stoves from that era were intended to be used either as inserts or as free standing stoves, but to be used free standing would require the manufacturers legs, or something equivalent. Others had both insert and free standing versions of the same base model that weren't intended for dual use - I'm not sure on that stove model which it would be. I tend to think that blocks probably won't cut it as leg substitutes, but you'd have to see the instructions for sure. There are some companies around that do parts for older stoves that might be able to help you out, or if you can get a good picture from the manual, and some dimensions, it MIGHT be possible to weld up something that would be functionally equivalent - not sure.
The other big thing from an approval standpoint is that the stove MUST have a UL listing tag on the back with clearance specs and the name of the certifying lab... Without that tag most gov't inspectors and insurance companies won't even consider letting you install the stove, so that's the first thing you need to ensure that you have.
You might want to start a new thread in the Hearth room with a title like "Need manual for Earth Stove 100" just because that might be more noticeable than adding to an existing thread like this one.
should be a UL tag on the back of it that lists clearances and what not as for legs you can have a welding shop weld some on the legs on my old earth stove were just some pipe legs that were about 9" long.
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