The great Jotul Euro plate debate

[Skier76]

I've been having a rough time starting fires this shoulder season. Last year, it was due to wood supply(wet). This year.....I dunno....weather chimney...combo of both.

I had to leave the door cracked a bit to get enough air into the firebox. Even then, it took awhile for the stove to get up to temp. My wife tried lighting a fire the other evening and had a heck of a time. So, while her fire was still smouldering, I put on some gloves and swapped plates. I had the Euro plate in last year, but took it out mid winter because I was still experimenting. What a difference...no more door cracking, no more babysitting the stove...just rake the coals forward and you're good to go on a reload. Staring a fire with a Super Cedar no longer requires the door to be cracked open.

I guess one could say this is a bit of a "band aid" solution. I'm taking a stove with a 6" outlet, and hooking it up to an 8" exterior chimney that doesn't clear the roofline. However, this seems to solve the problem and it was basically free. I'd have to shell out some serious coinage to get the chimney redone.

I'll keep this thread updated throughout the burning season.

 

[jotulguy]

that plate will give the fire more air, but the down side to that is it takes away from your air wash(dirtier glass) and your fires will burn faster. that plate is in there because in europe they have different emission standards that the stove has to meet to be sold there. of all the jotul free standing stoves the F-400 does need the minimum chimney height of 15 feet more then the others. im glad you got it working though......as long as you dont mind more often reloads it is by far the easiest fix.

 

[Skier76]

I did notice some more hazing last year and I "think" that was part of the reason I pulled it. But for now, it's just easier to start the fire. And I'll take the extra reloads vs messing with that chimney...for the time being.

It is pretty cool to see the difference. Splits put in the front will now develop an "arch" where the air comes in from the Euro plate. Plus, you can hear the stove pulling air now...even before it gets up to temp.

 

[logger]

I did notice some more hazing last year and I "think" that was part of the reason I pulled it. But for now, it's just easier to start the fire. And I'll take the extra reloads vs messing with that chimney...for the time being.

It is pretty cool to see the difference. Splits put in the front will now develop an "arch" where the air comes in from the Euro plate. Plus, you can hear the stove pulling air now...even before it gets up to temp.

If it works well for you, then its obviously a no brainer. I feel like it'd eat my wood up too fast and suck more heat up our chimney. Sounds like it's better for your setup though.

 

[begreen]

In mild weather, the flue is going to draft poorly. This stove needs a decent draft. I'd get another length of pipe on that stack.

But in the meantime, try top down starting to assist with warming up the flue. Follow the steps in the Woodheat video on "Efficient Wood Stove Operation". Use two shorter splits, oriented N/S and about 3" apart for the bed. You want air to be able to go right between them.
http://www.woodheat.org/videos.htm

 

[Skier76]

I tried a top down yesterday morning without much luck. My best luck has been with splits east west, super cecdar, small splits north south, then a medium split or two on top. For some reason a reglular ol' top down never worked well.

The draft has been a real bear this year. Ironically, the stoved fired up and lit off like nothing back on a gloomy day in June. It also did fine when testing a super cedar back in September. I don't know if it's the temp, humidity, pressure...or some combo. I do know things get better when it's colder. Once December rolled around last year, life was good.

 

[Shari]

Skier76: Just a question - Have you had your chimney & cap cleaned recently? Even if you have, did some critter take up residence in the cap since cleaning?

Shari

 

[Skier76]

Hi Shari,
I did the chimney cleaning myself back in the late spring/early summer. I've had a fire in the stove at least once a month in the off season. However, one benefit of the exterior chimney is access. It's very easy to pull the plug and have a look. I may do that just to be safe.

 

[begreen]

I tried a top down yesterday morning without much luck. My best luck has been with splits east west, super cecdar, small splits north south, then a medium split or two on top. For some reason a reglular ol' top down never worked well.

The draft has been a real bear this year. Ironically, the stoved fired up and lit off like nothing back on a gloomy day in June. It also did fine when testing a super cedar back in September. I don't know if it's the temp, humidity, pressure...or some combo. I do know things get better when it's colder. Once December rolled around last year, life was good.

The air comes in from the front center. An E/W log blocks off this airflow from getting to the center of the fire. This isn't a big deal when the fire is going, but it slows down fire starting.

Next time, try putting in a couple bottom pieces N/S a few inches apart. These "sleepers" can be 1-2" branches. Setting up the bottom wood this way will greatly improve airflow to the starting fire. Try it. This makes a really nice difference when starting the Castine with top down starting or with a SuperCedar.

 

[Skier76]

That sounds like a plan. I'll give that a shot BeGreen. Makes sense to give that air coming in from the center of the plate an easy path under the logs and to the firestarter; be it at the bottom or at the top.