The latest on my new stove setup

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mj5001

Member
Oct 15, 2011
160
United States
Went out and cleaned the chimney today and other than minor ash dust it was very clean (if you ask me) -- no buildup etc.

The chimney is about 12" square and tile (or whatever they call the flue material).

I don't have the time or money this year so may skip the liner -- measuring from the chimney top to the flue is only 13 feet -- again 12 x 12, so if I seal off my fireplace near the damper really well and run about 4 or 5 feet of stove pipe up there, I wonder how well it will perform?

Isn't the 13 feet a good thing if I don't use a liner? (Shorter the better).

Next year a liner -- but can't do the 350 bucks right now.

Will be using a Drolet HT2000 or Austral.

The previous owner must have had the chimney cleaned because it looks very good -- he had been using a fireplace insert (which I removed) without a liner.
 
The piece of chimney pipe can't hurt it. If it works it works. Some rockwool around that chimney pipe to seal the fireplace will help too.

I'm guessing this is a pre-epa stove just slammed into the fireplace right now? (I can't remember and it's not in your sig line)

pen
 
No stove is setup yet there WAS a fireplace insert I took out.

The stove I intend to buy will be an EPA stove.

Is the 13 feet to my advantage if I don't use the liner? (Like I say -- next year, a liner will be in place).
 
Most stove Manuf have a minimum flue height. 13 ft of un-lined chimney will birn marginal at nest. If you are going to run an insert, I dont see how this will be efficient at all??


As for runinb.some pipe up the chimney. You will have to check local codes. If this were a freestanding unit and you had some vertical pipe before going into a block chimney, I could see better results. But an insert, in a fireplace, with no chimney? Nothing connected? (5 ft wont do much of anything) I dont see it happening. Maybe I read it wrong.
Can you describe the "Entire Set-up" you will be installing?

And the shorter your flue, the worse the draft will be? Especially a short un-lined flue.
 
No, shorter is not better. At 13' the draft will be marginal, worse if there is a 90 deg. turn in the smokepath. And feeding a 144 sq in flue with a stove requiring 28 sq in just compounds the problem. All in all this a recipe for very poor operation. Install a liner or you will be dealing with more smoke in the house than the flue. And even then there is that 27" lintel.

PS: I think this was already asked and answered.
 
MJ5 said:
Went out and cleaned the chimney today and other than minor ash dust it was very clean (if you ask me) -- no buildup etc.

The chimney is about 12" square and tile (or whatever they call the flue material).

I don't have the time or money this year so may skip the liner -- measuring from the chimney top to the flue is only 13 feet -- again 12 x 12, so if I seal off my fireplace near the damper really well and run about 4 or 5 feet of stove pipe up there, I wonder how well it will perform?

Isn't the 13 feet a good thing if I don't use a liner? (Shorter the better).

Next year a liner -- but can't do the 350 bucks right now.

Will be using a Drolet HT2000 or Austral.

The previous owner must have had the chimney cleaned because it looks very good -- he had been using a fireplace insert (which I removed) without a liner.


Definitely not! Taller the better, with and without the liner.
 
by the way -- a photo of the fireplace.

not the CONCRETE flooring system -- that's right, concrete.

the house was built in 1960 and the basement was intended to be a BOMB SHELTER !


(like concrete will save you from radiation).
 

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MJ5 said:
I'll do the liner this year -- talked me into it. At least 13 feet won't be as pricey.

I ran across this one for only 230.00 --

http://www.build.com/duravent-6df30...ength-from-the-duraflexss-304-series/p1760262


Anyone use this?


It's an easy and straight shot down the flue to where I need to go -- a 6" pipe/liner and rockwool around it. right?


I'm NOT putting in an insert -- I took one out !


I haven't had any experience with this company, but my guard is up because the picture shown is not the DuraVent 6DF304-15K kit. It shows an aluminum top plate and cap and provides no flex connector. The picture looks more like a set up for gas, not wood. This could just be an error by the web designer, but call and ask them to email you the correct image and to confirm the actual parts.

Here is what the kit should look like:
http://www.dynamitebuys.com/store/cart.php?m=product_detail&p=1055

Yes, pack the liner at the top of the chimney with Roxul and at the damper throat.
 
Ok.

Well 350, I'll have to live with that -- not that I'm cheap but times are tough now and it cuts into my stove money.

What do you think of the fireplace? The top is 42" from the floor and I have no choice but to use it -- that's where the friggin flue is !

No way I'm going to put a new chimney through the ceilng -- I have to make this work and besides the "setting" is meant for a stove. The guy before had an ultra UGLY fireplace insert in there, we busted it out with sledge hammers (mostly cast iron).

So, I have this opening and a 13 foot chimney (13 from top to the lintel).
 
Ideally, at first I wanted to put a smaller stove INSIDE the fireplace opening but that was poo pooed.

It would look great though AND free up my floor space.
 
I think that fireplace will look great with a stove in it! You can always add a pipe extension above the top of the flue. An extra 2 or 3 feet might make a big difference.
 
Do you plan on installing the unit in front of the fireplace? Niether the HT2000 or Austral is certified to be installed into a fireplace. If installed in front ...you definately need a proper venting system going up the chimney. EPA stove are so efficient they have much lower exhaust temps. They would both struggle to give you a good draft in a masonary chimney as you describe without a liner.
 
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