The Mingo - Worth it??

[BlankBlankBlank]

Well, I was looking at chainsaw chaps after following a link in another post. Then low and behold, I find this weird contraption. Wonder whether it works. Worthwhile?

http://www.baileysonline.com/itemdetail.asp?item=265

 

[kbrown]

Not sure; but have seen other posts where people have come up with less expensive methods. Saw one were they used a hand held spray paint marker stick. Kept you from having to bend over like you would have to when using this. This is what I'm going to try out.
http://www.arboristsite.com/firewood-heating-wood-burning-equipment/179613.htm

 

[BlankBlankBlank]

Not sure; but have seen other posts where people have come up with less expensive methods. Saw one were they used a hand held spray paint marker stick. Kept you from having to bend over like you would have to when using this.

No I haven't. I'll have to take a look around. Thanks for the tip.

 

[MasterMech]

Cool toy. I can think of worse ways to spend $30. I should get one now that I think about it. Can't seem to get my cutting partners to stick to 18" or under. I always wind up re-bucking rounds that were cut at 24" or longer. The bigger the diameter, the longer they cut 'em. :lol:

 

[Stephen in SoKY]

Let's see.....30 dollars........1 dollar..........

 

[smokinj]

If your really annal about your stacks this is a very quick way to measure out a log. Myself I can throw a 26inch in, so its really what can I move.

 

[DanCorcoran]

I think that device is targeted to professionals who walk miles of downed trees, marking them. It looks like it is intended to accept a long pole as a handle, so no bending would be necessary.

 

[TreePointer]

I have a Mingo and it works well, but I don't use it a lot. It works best with long, straighter wood .

I always wanted to try the Tap and Cut.

 

[kbrown]

That's pretty cool; any information on how that's made? My guess is it uses chalk from a chalk line that just comes out of a small hole on the one end?

 

[CaddyUser]

That's pretty cool; any information on how that's made? My guess is it uses chalk from a chalk line that just comes out of a small hole on the one end?

You have it right. I'd made one for myself awhile ago after stopping at the local hardware store and picking up a T, a couple of threaded male2CPVC, a couple female2CPVC, and three caps. glued them up, and then used the hacksaw to make a partial cut in one of the fittings to allow the chalk to run out when 'tapped' on the log. The other caps,etc act as a cover as to not make a mess when not in use.

 

[kbrown]

This has my attention now! Would you mind posting a couple of close up pics of it? Did it work out for you? I'm trying to figure something out since I have about two log haulers worth of wood to mark over the next year. Normally I just use the stick & lumber crayon method, but now I would like something more efficient. I was thinking about doing the paint marker, but my overwhelming sense of wanting to do it as cheap as possible is taking over!! I figured that only the end with the slit has the threaded cap so that's the end you fill up with the chalk?

 

[CaddyUser]

Sure, I'll post some pics in a couple days.... The marker is up at the woodlot at the moment, in storage.

I did the slits on both ends so that I didn't have to think about which end to use, but you could certainly go with one.

 

[amateur cutter]

The mingo is handy, but once your mark hits a crotch or other obstruction you don't wanna cut thru then all your marks are off. Practiced eye, or saw bar is the best method I've found. A C

 

[mikes67]

I have the mingo, it works well and can mark off a log really quick. I find it best to limb before I mark it that way you dont have to go around the branches.

 

[LLigetfa]

I am somewhat particular about the length of my cuts and the Mingo doesn't have a wheel for the length I cut. I used to hold a short stick cut the the ideal length and use a hatchet to mark, removing the stick from harm's way before the strike (my aim is poor). The Tap and Cut looks like a good idea but I would modify it just a tad, making it a Y instead of a T so as to get around nobbies and such. I would also walk it end-over-end rather than align it with the previous mark each time.

The wood I buy comes cut to cord length (roughly 8 feet) but invariably they often come up a tad short. Even when they are exact, a multiple of my ideal length does not add up to 8 feet, so I split the difference so as not to end up with a shorty for the last round. I have a long marking stick with notches that I just lay on the log and mark with the nose of the bar but I've nicked the stick more than once.

I was thinking about making an elastic marker out of a long bungee cord and simply tie knots where I want to make the cuts. The elastic would evenly distribute the length adjustment but am worried I might cut the bungee when marking with the nose of the bar. Now I'm thinking to borrow from the Tap and Cut and just make a single "wand" to tap at each knot.

 

[kbrown]

Sure, I'll post some pics in a couple days.... The marker is up at the woodlot at the moment, in storage.

I did the slits on both ends so that I didn't have to think about which end to use, but you could certainly go with one.

I think I understand your design; the male/female are so you can open/close both ends for the marks and the caps glue onto the female end. Did you use 1/2" or 3/4" PVC? I was thinking about putting a stop inside the top of the T so the chalk is only in the marking lengths of the PVC; otherwise it would really take a lot of chalk to fill that sucker up - that's why I was leaning towards using 1/2" on all this.

 

[CaddyUser]

Sure, I'll post some pics in a couple days.... The marker is up at the woodlot at the moment, in storage.

I did the slits on both ends so that I didn't have to think about which end to use, but you could certainly go with one.

I think I understand your design; the male/female are so you can open/close both ends for the marks and the caps glue onto the female end. Did you use 1/2" or 3/4" PVC? I was thinking about putting a stop inside the top of the T so the chalk is only in the marking lengths of the PVC; otherwise it would really take a lot of chalk to fill that sucker up - that's why I was leaning towards using 1/2" on all this.

If I recall correctly, mine is 3/4" but 1/2" would certainly do it. The chalk does go up into the handle, but it only took one of the smaller refill containers that I picked up at the time at the hardware store. It took the whole bottle, but I've used it for two seasons now (blocked about 10 cord @ 16") and still have lots left.

Pics to come soon....

 

[ccwhite]

I cut about 20" length. My favorite saw has a 18" bar. I just measure with the bar, guesstemate another 2", turn the saw and cut. No need for marking.

 

[kbrown]

I've done the bar thing, stick/crayon, tape measure, etc - I will admit that all work and each has it's own place. I am willing to try new things and when I saw that tap and cut, it was pretty cool and also it gives me a chance to involve my little girl who is always begging to help out! If it works, she will be soo happy! Heck, my 4 year old still talks about how she handed me the splits to stack! I was proud to cuz she really got into it and actually asked me the next day when I was going to split more to stack!

 

[BlankBlankBlank]

I've done the bar thing, stick/crayon, tape measure, etc - I will admit that all work and each has it's own place. I am willing to try new things and when I saw that tap and cut, it was pretty cool and also it gives me a chance to involve my little girl who is always begging to help out! If it works, she will be soo happy! Heck, my 4 year old still talks about how she handed me the splits to stack! I was proud to cuz she really got into it and actually asked me the next day when I was going to split more to stack!

It starts when they're young. Good job.

 

[mayhem]

I just cut my stuff to the right length by eyeballing it. If you make the initial effort its not all that difficult to get the lengths pretty accurate...no sticks or spraypaint required.

 

[firefighterjake]

I cut about 20" length. My favorite saw has a 18" bar. I just measure with the bar, guesstemate another 2", turn the saw and cut. No need for marking.

Same here . . . both with the preferred length of the wood and using the bar and eye-ball to cut my wood . . . my own feeling is that if a few pieces are an inch or two short or an inch or two long it really will not matter as long as I can get the wood into the firebox . . . my goal when processing wood is to make future fuel for heat . . . not win the OCD Award for the Best Looking Stack of Firewood.

 

[LLigetfa]

. . . not win the OCD Award for the Best Looking Stack of Firewood.

LOL My stacks only look good from one side. The backside looks pretty ragged.